Replacing stock roller with flat tappet cam?
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
The phone rang while I was in the middle of that last post and it didn't end up sounding right.
What I was trying to say is that if you get one of those "spot facer" thingamajiggys that they tell you is used for installing screw in studs using a hand drill, the results will be disappointing.
I've seen the way they work and they're a good way to wreck a set of heads.
For screw in studs, a mill is the way.
For pinning studs, sure, use a drill.
What I was trying to say is that if you get one of those "spot facer" thingamajiggys that they tell you is used for installing screw in studs using a hand drill, the results will be disappointing.
I've seen the way they work and they're a good way to wreck a set of heads.
For screw in studs, a mill is the way.
For pinning studs, sure, use a drill.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: England,U.K
Car: Pontiac Transam Gta
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: Th700r4
Thanks for your reply i may leave heads on and pin the studs as i dont really need to remove them yet ....
i will just pin them so i can run a higher lift than stock then i may port later to achieve 500 hp like someone has already managed to do on this forum.....or replace the heads......
Has anyone ever had a custom grind done to there stock roller cam tho achieve a higher lift and was it cost efficent rather than buying a new cam?
i will just pin them so i can run a higher lift than stock then i may port later to achieve 500 hp like someone has already managed to do on this forum.....or replace the heads......
Has anyone ever had a custom grind done to there stock roller cam tho achieve a higher lift and was it cost efficent rather than buying a new cam?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: England,U.K
Car: Pontiac Transam Gta
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: Th700r4
has anyone had to change there cam bearings on there tpi engine atfer taking the cam out?
Ive just removed my cam and the front bearing looks quite grey in colour at the bottom and cam has a few hairline scratches....one of the bearing surfaces on the cam look very dull..
Is this normal....
Also the cam gear has lots of little nicks in it where the chain sits....
Ive just removed my cam and the front bearing looks quite grey in colour at the bottom and cam has a few hairline scratches....one of the bearing surfaces on the cam look very dull..
Is this normal....
Also the cam gear has lots of little nicks in it where the chain sits....
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Pinning rocker studs) Just be careful about getting chips in the motor.
Cam bearing) You'll need a special tool, both to take them out and install them. I don't think I'd put new ones in, but someone else might tell you otherwise. It seems like the pros say that cam bearings can run kinda sloppy, or scratched up.
Timing chain) Nicks in a worn chain are normal. But you're nuts not to get a new one, when you can get a roller for $20.
Cam regrind) There's an outfit called Howards Cams, and I believe they're reputable. They'll do regrinds on a roller cam for $100. Some of the guys here advise against it , but someday I might try one anyhow.
Best of luck to ya
Cam bearing) You'll need a special tool, both to take them out and install them. I don't think I'd put new ones in, but someone else might tell you otherwise. It seems like the pros say that cam bearings can run kinda sloppy, or scratched up.
Timing chain) Nicks in a worn chain are normal. But you're nuts not to get a new one, when you can get a roller for $20.
Cam regrind) There's an outfit called Howards Cams, and I believe they're reputable. They'll do regrinds on a roller cam for $100. Some of the guys here advise against it , but someday I might try one anyhow.
Best of luck to ya
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: England,U.K
Car: Pontiac Transam Gta
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: Th700r4
Cheers for the info i will get new chain and sprocket although i am having big problems removing the crank sprocket!!!!! i may have damaged the begining of the thread in the crank when i used a puller tp try to pull the sprocket off any idea's?
how did you get yours off?:lala:
how did you get yours off?:lala:
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Can you get the bolt started back into the hole again?
Are you using a 3 jaw puller?
The 3 jaw puller should be good for removing the sprocket.
I always protect the end of the crank when using a puller, sometimes I'll use a coin if I can't find anything else. Sometimes I'll thread the bolt in til it bottoms and center the puller on the bolt head too.
If your threads are messed up, it will only be at the start. you can grind or drill those first few threads away to reach some fresh threads, about 2mm is all. After that be careful about starting the bolt or it might cross thread.
Another thing to be careful about is re installing the new timing sprocket and balancer. DO NOT use the bolt for that, also don't use a hammer.
There's a harmonic balancer installing tool for that. You can drive the sprocket on with a hammer but not the balancer, it will wreck the balancer.
If you can get a 100cm piece of threaded rod that matches the threads of the crank bolt, you can make your own harmonic balancer installer.
And actually a lot of us have pressed on harmonic balancers with the bolt, but I'm not going to recommend it, cause there's a good chance it will strip the crank threads.
Are you using a 3 jaw puller?
The 3 jaw puller should be good for removing the sprocket.
I always protect the end of the crank when using a puller, sometimes I'll use a coin if I can't find anything else. Sometimes I'll thread the bolt in til it bottoms and center the puller on the bolt head too.
If your threads are messed up, it will only be at the start. you can grind or drill those first few threads away to reach some fresh threads, about 2mm is all. After that be careful about starting the bolt or it might cross thread.
Another thing to be careful about is re installing the new timing sprocket and balancer. DO NOT use the bolt for that, also don't use a hammer.
There's a harmonic balancer installing tool for that. You can drive the sprocket on with a hammer but not the balancer, it will wreck the balancer.
If you can get a 100cm piece of threaded rod that matches the threads of the crank bolt, you can make your own harmonic balancer installer.
And actually a lot of us have pressed on harmonic balancers with the bolt, but I'm not going to recommend it, cause there's a good chance it will strip the crank threads.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: England,U.K
Car: Pontiac Transam Gta
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: Th700r4
i did use a 3 leg puller but the middle part is only slightly bigger than the hole in the crank.......
i will have another go using a coin or washer today.....
Has any one ever reused there head bolts on atpi or 87 onwards????
Can you reuse them as i have been told be a parts retailer to change them as they are suppossedly not reuseable?????:lala:
i will have another go using a coin or washer today.....
Has any one ever reused there head bolts on atpi or 87 onwards????
Can you reuse them as i have been told be a parts retailer to change them as they are suppossedly not reuseable?????:lala:
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
I'm sure hoping that they're reusable, cause that's what I've always done.
It kinda sounds like you're trying to do this without a manual. It's a good idea to have one, because sometimes something that seems obvious is exactly the thing not to do.
Is your motor out of your car?
I'm guessing that you haven't put your cam in yet, cause you we're just asking about it last week.
It kinda sounds like you're trying to do this without a manual. It's a good idea to have one, because sometimes something that seems obvious is exactly the thing not to do.
Is your motor out of your car?
I'm guessing that you haven't put your cam in yet, cause you we're just asking about it last week.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
You can re use head bolts, unless there's something wrong with them. I have done it many times. If there is something wrong with the bolts they'll probably break when you tighten them.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Why???
Maybe 87s are unique, I don't know.
Now I guess you'll have to figure out which of us is right, the guy who said replace them or the guy who said not to...
There are better head bolts to be found out there, than the factory ones. But I've taken the heads off Chevy V8s more times than I can count and only once bought new bolts.
That's why I was saying buy a manual. You might post a question and the guy who knows the right answer has gone fishing that day.
It might be a good idea to start a new thread specifically relating to that topic.
Have Fun !
Maybe 87s are unique, I don't know.
Now I guess you'll have to figure out which of us is right, the guy who said replace them or the guy who said not to...
There are better head bolts to be found out there, than the factory ones. But I've taken the heads off Chevy V8s more times than I can count and only once bought new bolts.
That's why I was saying buy a manual. You might post a question and the guy who knows the right answer has gone fishing that day.
It might be a good idea to start a new thread specifically relating to that topic.
Have Fun !
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