Hope this is the right tech board....

I have a holley carburetor, I bought it rebuilt, and stupid me didn't get all the information on it. The numbers on the carb are 3310, and the other one is 4519. I couldn't find info for it on holly's site, and I REALLy need to know if the kickdown bracket that I am looking at:

(TH-700R4 Transmission Kickdown
Cable Carburetor Bracket
Part #: 20-95 )

will work correctly with it. Also what is the stock TBI L03 Fuel pressure from the fuel pump? I'm just going to use a AFPR.

Also, I am told that I will lose lockup function on my transmission and the only way to get that back is to install an electronic controller to get it back? Can someome shed some light on that one?

Thanks alot everyone, im that much closer to gettin this danged thing done!

cheers

 

Well, that's the bracket I used on my 3310, works fine with my originally TPI car's throttle and kickdown cables.

For the lockup, I ran a TCI kit (I think it's like $70 in Summit of Jegs, can't recall which) that locks it up when vacuum reaches a certain level. It's kind of annoying, at just the right RPM on the highway accelerating just slightly it will lock and unlock a couple times pretty fast.

I think you can just wire up a switch pretty simply to manually lock the thing up when you want without shelling out for the kit, but you'll have to get more info on that as I don't know the details...

The TPI's pump pressure is higher than the TBIs, but I don't recall the TBI specifics, you may be able to get away with any plain old AFPR. I used a Mallory 3-50 psi regulator to turn down the TPI fuel pumps pressure, worked fine for like 2 years. It's like $70 in Jegs I think it was. Just recently my pump died though (right in the middle of swapping it out actually) so I'll be going to a standard mechanical fuel pump and doing away with the intank pump and that regulator...

 

yah i'd need more info on the switch thing before deciding to do it, cause I never understood if you had to shut it off everytime you hit the break or if you hit the gas real hard.....

thanks for the info on the bracket though, and I know what pump I need to get, thanks!

cheers

 

i bought the B&M lockup kit...i believe it was $150....i'm really happy with it. Comes with a selector switch to figure out when you want the lockup to occur and at what speed. Pretty nice

 

I take it your switching from tbi to carb right? Well I dont know about the kickdown cable ,but the stock tbi fuel pump puts out like 14 psi, you want to get the mallory 3 port return style regulator for it and run it at like 5 psi for a carb. Oh and with the TCI torque converter lockup kit you dont have to worry about turning it on or off because its vaccum operated. good luck.

 

well, that lockup thing may be an issue for me then, cause I really don't have the money to throw that on my car. Yes I am switching from TBI but its not my 5.0L anymore, I have a new 350 block. is there any way just using a switch or jury rig something up? I'm at a loss here thanks guys for the valuable info!

cheers

 

Some lockup switch information is in the technical articles, it was concerning locking it up early on a 1/4 run for a little better time... : https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...ueswitch.shtml

Not sure what issues you'll run into doing the way the article says without the computer (ie you may not be able to wire it via the ALDL, may have to wire it up via the TC control wires leaving the transmission, etc). Still hoping someone will jump in who has run it after eliminating the computer... Either way without one of the kits it's going to be totally manual, ie you switch it on when you get on the highway cruising, and switch it off if you need to downshift, exit the highway etc. For around town driving I usually don't even use OD, much less putt around with the TC locked up... If nothing else you could use the switch for a while till you get the funds to get one of the kits...

 

would it really be that detrimental to the transmission to be ran without any sort of lockup for a while? Its been rebuilt (only has about 900-1200 miles on it. its got a shift kit, corvette servo and the other stuff that rebuilds usually get.....

thanks!

 

The only time running without locking up hurts the tranny is if you're down at or below the stall speed of the torque converter. This is common in overdrive at modest speeds, even with a stock stall converter. For instance, if you're in OD at say 45MPH. Without lockup you're turning, say 2200. With lockup it would only be maybe 1500- below stall speed. Lots of heat is generated becuase there's so much torque converter slippage between 1500 and 2200. A big auxilliary tranny cooler helps (don't rely on the stock one in the radiator), as does keeping it in regular Drive (not OD) when cruising around town- saving OD for the highway. Torque converter slippage = heat. Heat = what kills the tranny.

I've often run without lockup without tranny damage for YEARS by putting in a big tranny cooler and staying out of OD except when cruising on the highway. It can be done. Depends what you're willing to put up with.

 

does anyone have the part number for jegs on that mallory return style regulator? I have found a few of em on there, but they don't give much info about em on Jegs. Thanks alot!

 

i believe it's 4309......3 port return style regulator....hope that helps.

you can see a pic of it on my cardomain site.