Hey all, I have been having problems with my IROC ever sence ive moved here to Aliso Viejo, CA!

For one, it won't idle right. for two, it sounds like the timing is WAYyy off. (i.e. it backfires when i floor it, and it makes these strange poppng noises when i let up on the gas)

That, and when i flash my ECU, i get a code 33, or a code 42, or a code 44. (or sometimes all three).

I have replaced the MAF, and it actually ran worse! i kept the new MAF on for a few days, but decided to put the old one back on. It seemes to run better with it.

I have taken my car to firestone here in aliso, but they just charged me 70 to check my ECU codes, and then quoted me around 600 plus install for a new MAF. (which is why i tried replacing it myself).

Anyway, Do you guys know of any mechanic somewhere around where i live who i could take my car to? or (im sure you knew this was coming kevin91z) Would anyone here help me out on my car for some $$$ and guiness or something? If anything, this could give me a chance to learn some things about my car.

Well, thought i would ask.

thanks!

 

i say its all timing, least thats what my car did when i put the distributor back in wrong... i tried to go up a hill and the engine just wouldnt push.. found out i was WAYYY off in the timing

 

I was thinkign ti was the timing myself (if i look at the harmonic dampner while the car is running (not easy, it wont idle right)) i notice it wobbles like crazy.

But would just having my timing off cause my ECU to throw me so many codes?

I could purchase a timing light, and pretend i know what im doing (comptuer geek playing with cars is a no no). but im not too familiar with it. i have a small plate which looks like it has three little spikes on it for timing. i assume the middle spike is TDC? and if its further to the passenger side, the its advanced?

the thing is covered in oil, i would have to get some engine de-greaser or something, if it has marks on it somewhere.

All i know is im supposed to be 6* advance.

one more thing, i have no idea where my ECU line is. all the wires in my car seem to have been randomly placed around. whoever owned the car before me sure did alot of stuff to it.

Does anyone have any idea on how i coudl find my ECU connector? if i get it inplugged, will my check engine light come on, and when flashed not show me any codes? or is there any way to double check to make sure i don't (attempt) to set the timing while the ECU is advancing it?

 

For a code 44 try a new O2 sensor. For the 33 try new Maf Relays, For the idleing Try cleaning out and resetting IAC along with the TPS. As for the backfireing check to see if you have a exhaust leak.

 

Woah! Alright. I got in an accident here in aliso the day i got here, and bent the frame.

after i got it back from the shop, i learned that i had poked quite a large hole in the Y-pipe for my exhaust. around a quarted-sized hole (made by a bolt)

it also dented in aroudn the hole quite a bit.

Do you think that might be causing the backfires? how so? too much backpressure?

As for the idle problem, I had a friend of mine check it out in denver before i left. We installed a new dist. cap, and wires, and a new O2 sensor. As i recall, we couldn't tighten the o2 sensor too much, but he figured it just had to be there.

As for the MAF relays, i havn't checked them. what is involved in replacing them? woudl i need to pull the wires out of the old one and shove them in the new one?

and the IAC, I take it thats, "Idle Air Controll"? Im not sure what is is or where it is. Same with the throttle position sensor, unless its that little screw which keeps the throttle plate open on the plenum.

thanks for the posts guys! any ideas rock, im out of them already!

 

Setting the timing on the car is very easy to do. First buy a timing light and an offset timing wrench. (The bolt on the distributor is placed inconveniently if you don't have one. heh) That'll run you probably no more than 40 bucks.

To bypass the computer, look for a tan wire with a black stripe on it on the passenger side of the car. There should be a bundle of wires helt together with some black plastic tubing, and sticking out of that will be the wire. It's got a plug on the wire, just disconnect that. (Do this with your car off.)

To hook up the timing light...

Put the inductive pickup on the #1 spark plug wire. It's the wire closest to the front of the car on the driver's side of the distributor. Then hook the positive cable to the positive terminal, then the ground to any good ground you can find. Turn the car on, and after a few seconds the check engine light should come on. (Also be careful not to let the wires of the timing light get anywhere near the belts or the fan.) With the car warmed up and at idle, point the timing light down to the marks. As you've seen, the marks are made up of a bunch of triangle shaped wedges. The widest "valley," towards the drivers side, is TDC. Then, the peaks, heading towards passenger's side, are 4*BTDC and then, I believe, 8*BTDC.

Loosen up the bolt on the distributor, and slowly turn it either way to adjust the timing: Counterclockwise to advance, clockwise to retard. Don't jerk the distributor as it doesn't take much to adjust the timing. Also, when adjusting the timing the engine's RPM's will vary, so don't let that throw you off. After you get the timing set, tighten down the distributor and check the timing again to make sure it didn't move. Then turn the car off, disconnect the timing light and plug back in the EST.

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89 iroc-z
everything stock, except for a mirror that fell off

 

I remember you, but I dont remember your car. What year, what engine, what transmission?

The suggestions shown above sound good. I'm a computer geek too, but I have my mechanic father to help me. Email me and maybe we can get together and I will put my Diacom Plus on it and check it out. If your damper is vibrating that bad, it sounds like you need a replacement.

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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

woah! that was one awesome article on timing enkil! thanks!

I think there is a chance that i might be able to do that. not too sure or not. Kevin posted a reply to my post. yeah! hopefully i can meet up with him and troubleshoot some. that would rock.

So it seems like everyone here thinks i should check the timing first? i was going to try that originally, but untill enkil posted that message, i wasn't sure if i knew exactiyl what to do. he should write car manuels. haha.

 

Cristos, From One Ex computer Geek turned Gear Head To Another, You Can Do It!

Adjusting the Timing is Not nearly as daunting a task as It seems, and Enkil Described it to The letter.

If You have Any questions, Feel free to Email Me, Bort62@yahoo.com, I always wlling to Help And I like to think I know a Considerable amount

And yes, that Exhaust Leak is Not going to Help Any.



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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Z28 LG4 - Daily Driver
**Mods**
MSD Superconductors
14" Open Element
KYB all around

 

OK, You have a MAF car you might want to check the air cleaner assembly, they are prone to cracking around the air inlet. This will throw everything off (like you are talking about) if leaking after the MAF.

------------------
Chronologically challenged. But still alive!
92 CAMARO RS
305 TBI 5/spd
'69 camaro
BB/Lenco
1050 dominators
8.97-150+
Pump gas/no drugs

 

Assuming nothing is broken....

My Service manual refers to a "High Altitude" EPROM, IIRC...depending on where the car came from, might be worth a look into.

 

I have the old gutted air-boxes (not done by me, and not done well) and i have gutted my MAF. (which i learned was not so smart).

as for cracks in the air duct, i havn't checked it that well yet. It is old, and not in the best shape, do you think there is a chance that it could be the problem?

After i installed the new MAF, all my car symptoms got way worse, and the car sounded like a diesel engine with a 20:1 compressions ratio. that, and my ecu thew a code 44 (lean fuel).

I popped back in the old MAF, and the car is back to where it is now (sounding like its running a 14:1 compression, on desiel gas).

i swear, people turn their heads when i drive by. not sure if that sound is related to the timing, or the hole in my "y" pipe, or a combo of the two.

 

Dear Mr. Nicholson,

8.97 @ 150+ on pump gas ?????

Choke - I'm chronologically old, and shooting for mid-11's on next years project.

So, let's see, if fast is a relative term, and the older you get, the faster you need to go to "feel" the speed........

And I'm 44 shooting for 11's........

And you're at 8.97 ............

You must 92 years old !!

Kudos are in order for substituting a rollbar for a cane and taking life 1/4 mile at a time.

Sincerely,
BOR

 

ok, so i would want to set it to 6* BTDC? that is "6 degrees of advance"? or would it be After Top Dead center?

sorry, i know im a dunce, but you have all read my 305 horror stories im sure.

 

BTDC means before top dead center. You should see the 2 4 6 marks on the tab on your timing cover.

Dyno Don is my dad, a professional mechanic. If you cant figure out whats wrong with your car, you can take it to him. He certainly can fix your exhaust.

 

Woah! no kidding? that rocks.

How much would he charge? i have been trying to figure out a way to get that fixed. but even cheap headers+y-pipe are rich for my blood.

If you guys are cool with it, would you mind if i dropped by sometime? i would love the chance to get my car fixed! (of course) I think my car could make it.

it mostly rests in this garage we have behind our offices for warehouse space. kind of a cool garage, makes me wish i had tools.... and the knowledge on what i was doing. haha

post or e-mail, either way ill check it.

christhegimp@yahoo.com
mailto:christhegimp@yahoo.com

 

Christos,

After all that, no one caught on to the fact that you said you have a hole in your 'Y' pipe. If that hole is ahead of or near the oxygen sensor, it can admit enough outside air to really skew the O2 readings and totally screw the mixture control.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Vader, Yes, i do have quite a large hole, but it also is near where the "y" pipe meets up. my O2 sensor is located on the drivers side manifold (near the exhaust ports) i think its at least a few feet to the O2 sensor.

I wish i could find someone close to orange county or Irvine who could help me out.

Im going to pickup a timing light and see if i can figure it out for myself, just in case it is the timing. hopefully i can figure it out. BTW, its BTDC mean "advanced?" or not.

thanks!

 

Ok, i found my ECU wire finally. im going to pickup a timing light and stuff this weekend, and see what thats set to, then check my TPS and IAC (read up on it, from posts, and from tech articles) and make a feeble attempt to set everything. idle speed too. i have been driving with two feet for way too long now. (keep the engine from dying when im at idle)

really sucks too, can't make a quick stop. if i did, it would kill the engine, and if the power breaks go out, hooo boy, my boat ain't stoping. hahaa

Well, wish me luck, if i screw up, ill be posting on this board like a madman

 

Alright, i bought all the goodies today.

Ok, first off, i wanted to make sure my car would idle, so i checked my idle speed, using the tech article on this site. had a bitch of a time getting the IAC connector out too. man, i don't know relays at all!


Anyway, it said on the tech article, it should be set for 450 rpm! i was running at around 700 with it disconnected, so i lowered it a bit, and i noticed the throttle plate thing (the plate which houses the TV cable, and the throttle cable) wasn't moving back, so i tapped it, and it slid back to the new setting i set it to, and the engine died. couldn't get it to hold if i started it again either. so i brought it back way up, and set it again. this time, it idled around 1,000 RPM.

Disconnected the wires i had shorting the ECU (aldl A-B) and started the car again.

As soon as i did that, i got a engine code 33, 42 and 43.

43 is the new code, ive had 33 and 42 for a while now.

According to my haynes manuel, 33 is a MAF problem (replaced it, it ran WORSE, so installed the old one back in)

42 is a "Bypass, or EST problem" whatever that is.

and 43 is a "ESC, or Electronic Spark Control system" error. whatever THAT is.

Im sort of high right now off of the fumes put off by my exhaust (in the garage) so im sort of dizzy writing this.

Oh, the car still wont idle correctily, even at 1,000. If i tap the gas, and let it only get up to even 2,000, and just let up off the pedal, the car dies. it has done this for the last year or so. even after i reset the idle tonight.

So, now my car runs the same, but is shooting me a code 43! does anyone have any idea what im doing wrong? or any idea what could be causing this? im about out of ideas already.

One thing, in the tech article, it said, "If you set a SES light by having the IAC disconnected, disconnect the negatave battery terminal, and wait 5 mins. this will cleat the ECM of all trouble codes, then drive then reconnect it, and drive for 20 mins, to allow the ECM to relearn your driving style."

Did i set a SES code? i know ive set a SEC code.

Well, im going to go and see if i can find some tool in my meager new tool kit to disconnect my negative battery terminal, and then drive around for a while, and then come back and see if anyone has anything to say.

Any help is awesome guys!

After this, im going to try and set the timing. ohhh boy, with my luck ill be here all night, stuck because ive broken my car.

 

I still say check that air inlet between the MAF and the TPI a leak there will cause all the syptoms you are experiencing.

Don>>>

------------------
Chronologically challenged. But still alive!
92 CAMARO RS
305 TBI 5/spd
'69 camaro
BB/Lenco
1050 dominators
8.97-150+
Pump gas/no drugs

 

the code 42 is from having the timing connector unplugged. It is normal for that code to popup while setting the timing. In fact, I'd be worried if it didn't show up! The final step in the timing setting procedure is to clear the trouble codes.

The ESC code is ignition system also, and I can't remember if that's a result of the timing connector being opened, or not....

It also sounds like you're getting a buit confused by all the abbreviations.

EST = Electronic Spark Timing How the computer controls timing.
ESC = Electronic Spark Control System that also modifies timing, based on the Knock Sensor input.
SES = Service Engine Soon Light that comes on when there is a problem with the electronic engine control system.
ECM or ECU = Electronic Control Module or Unit Engine control computer

Hope this helps you out some! At least the right abbreviation will help us understand what you're saying better (and make you sound like you know what you're doing already!)

Good luck!

------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

hey all, sorry to bring this back up to the top again, but i wanted to update things a bit.

First off, after i advanced the timing, the car sounded way better. still woul dbackfire if i floored it, but seemes to have quite a bit more power, and sounded alot healthier.

Also, when i disconnected my negative battery cable to reset the ECU, my car hasn't thrown me a code yet!

so after about a few weeks, the car is sounding really bad again. i havn't checked the timing again yet, but would it retard itself that fast?

So one more time, no ECU codes now, but it backfires if i floor it, and also, if i partially floor it around town, as soon as i let off the gas petal, the car makes a really odd guggling sound, and i hear odd popping noises from the intake somewhere. it almost sounds like someone popping popcorn in a plastic bag!

As before, i still have that hole in my y-pipe. only reason i think it might be something more than that, is because of the sound which comes from under the hood when i drive.

Anyone got an idea? or should i just put top priority on getting a set of headers and new-pipe first, to see if it solves my problem? i would hate to spend 800 for a set of headers + install, and have my car still sound and run like §hit.

Thanks everyone!