When I got my '89 IROC, the driver's side door hinges were shot. The lower hinge had so much play that the door would make a "thumping" sound when I opened/closed it, and the door was hanging so low that the rearmost part of the door scraped against the ground effects. I have since replaced the hinges using the hinge replacement kit offered by 3rdGenSolutions. The kit has done an excellent job of tightening up the hinges and bringing the door back up (notice in the first picture how the door is parallel to the car again).

Problem is, I think it's now a little "too parallel". The door is difficult to open because it now catches on the striker bar. I've checked the latching mechanisim, and there's definitely some wear on the bottom lip (not the part that moves, but the part that's fixed to the door. See second picture). That tells me that the door is now too high for the striker bar. I'm not sure why that would happen, though, since the door is obviously parallel to the car.

Another thing that I notice (and I'm not sure if it's related or not) is that, whenever I go over a sharp bump, the whole driver's door makes a loud banging noise--almost like there's play between the latching mechanisim and striker bar such the two slam together.

Any ideas what might have caused this and what I might be able to do about it?

Thanks

 

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the striker is adjustable

 

The striker bar is adjustable (the bolt looking thing attached to the body)? Thought it just screwed in and out--not up and down.

 

When it is loosened it has a clip in the back and there is a little play which u can move it up down back or forward for proper adjustment.

 

Did the factory intend the striker bar to be adjustable, or is that something that you can force it to do? Mine doesn't look like it was intended to be adjustable.

When I unscrewed the striker bar and removed it, all I saw was a hole the size of the bolt in the body. Since the bolt is the same size as the hole, there really isn't any room to move the striker bar (except to unscrew it).

I as far as the "clip"--I did notice a large, thick piece of metal on the inside of the body which was threaded for the striker bar. Damn thing fell into the bottom of the body and I had to fish it out.

 

The strike only needs to be loosened slightly, adjusted, then tightened. There should be a couple mm of movement in all directions, which is generally sufficient to fine-tune the door.

 

The striker bar is somewhat adjustable. I say somewhat because the factory hole is not large enough for any reasonable amount of movement. The hole needs to be enlarged. This is even outlined in the factory service manual (see, they even acknowledge that they messed up!).

Unscrew the striker bar (the nut is caged and will stay in place), then using a die grinder or dremel open up the hole in the direction the striker needs to move.

Screw striker bar back into place and test door. Continue to adjust as required.

RBob.