No start condition - turn key, everything comes on, battery has juice, but motor won't crank. All connections to starter are ok, any help is appreciated!

My thought is the fusible link to the starter. Can anyone comfirm or give any other feedback?

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My 91 RS
Nor-Cal Crew For Life

[This message has been edited by FRDH8R (edited January 22, 2001).]

 

What happens when you turn the key, do the lights go dim like the starter is drawing power. If so, bad starter. If not, fuseable link or bad ignition switch or neutral safety switch would be my guess.

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI

 

It might be the vats. Is this an intermittent condition or does it never start? Luckily if the starter won't engage it's a fairly short elimination process. Pretty much check the vats and the things mentioned and you should find it.

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax muffler, K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor, synthetic oil, flexlite transmission cooler, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

Don't overlook the battery yet, just cause it can supply enough juice to light up the lights, doesn't mean it has enough to crank an engine! I have seen this on multiple occasions, even happened to me once, I thought some coolant I spilled shorted something, literally Run it to get air out of radiator upon refil, I gave it a little rev to help the air along, it was more close to full thean I thought, some spilled, I ran and shut it off. Cleaned up the coolant, and went to restart, it wouldn't restart! Lights came on everything, except the chime for the keys in 1/15x or so sounded funny. Put the charger on it since my friend said he thought it was the battery, no good. Put the charger on 200A boost for starting car still won't start. Charge overnight, still ok. Get multimeter, battery is at 13.6V Check each cell individually, all good. My friend who owns an 85 IROC keeps saying its the battery so I humor him, grab the new battery, and it starts right up! I sure learned my lesson. Even if the battery was working 30 secs ago, doesn't mean it is now.
Theres my .02
Hope your problem is as simple


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Corry Lazarowitz
clazarow@voicenet.com
clazarowitz@hotmail.com
SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3" cat back (stock cat )MSD ignition. MSD Blaster SS coil. More soon when funds are avail...

 

one guy said to try the neutral saftey switch sounds good to me! to test it just put it in any forward or reverse gear and hold the brake and crank if it starts you know the prob!

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1989 firebird formula

Mods: converted from T.B.I. to a carburator 305 to a 350. Flowmater exhaust,hedman shortie hedders,202 heads,350 horse cam,bored.40 over, Edlebrock torker2 intake.

Future mods performer rpm air gap intake (polished) and 600 edlebrock carb, comp roller cam, and way better headsa 400 defintely in the works!

 

Well, I checked the neutral safety switch. car wont start in any front or reverse gear with brake pressed hard.

About the battery, I have a manual fan switch on the car and i turned on the switch, which takes alot of amperage to turn the fan, and it turned it strong as it usually does.

When I turn the key, there is nothing, the lights come on and everything, but nothing clicks at all, like the solenoid.

Also, before all of this, i had another problem. If the car was running, and I shut it off. It would have a real hard time starting a few seconds later. The motor would crank very slowly and stop then do it again, and again, then start. Could this be related?


PS- how do i check the ignition switch and vats?


Any other thoughts?

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My 91 RS
Nor-Cal Crew For Life

[This message has been edited by FRDH8R (edited January 23, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by FRDH8R (edited January 23, 2001).]