I already feed it into the brake booster vaccuum line but I am thinking that the front cylinders did not get much of the cleaner at all. How about redoing it but using the PCV hose since it seems like it is in the middle of the intake and will distribute the cleaner evenly to all cylinders.
Thanks!!

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1989 Iroc-Z L98 Original engine-58K miles!!

SLP 1 3/4 SS headers, Hooker Areochamber catback, no cat, BBK AFPR, 3.8L Turbo V6 200* fan switch, MSD GM coil, ported and gasket matched plenum, TB coolant bypass, relocated MAT sensor, screenless MAF sensor, K&N filters, Accel cap and rotor, Taylor SpiroPro 8mm wires, Bosch Platinum plugs, Mobil 1 oil, and more to come...
Best ET not corrected- 14.24@96.76MPH / 2.17 60ft on street tires with the crappy B/W 2.77 gears.

Homepage currently under construction: http://www.iit.edu/~wicktho/len

 

I've always just fed it in through the carb primaries. It's always worked well that way and gets to all the cylinders.

Are you using the engine cleaner because your engine is pinging? I can almost guarantee that your EGR ports in the intake are plugged with carbon or the valve itself isn't working. Check that out as well because it happened to me and I went and did the GM engine cleaner thing, thinking that I had carbon build-up in the combustion chambers.

 

The car I'm using it on is fuel injected so I just can't pour it into the TB without making a huge mess. I am using the cleaner as a maintance item. The car runs fine and I am trying to keep it that way.
Thanks!

 

How many miles on your engine? Just something to be aware of: while decarboning your engine will help performance etc. it can actually make the engine start to consume a LOT more oil if valve seals and piston rings have some wear...I saw an article at www.dsm.org about decarbonizing an engine and the procedure was to buy a few cans of Mopar engine combustion chamber cleaner (not sure if GM top is the same) and then with the car running spray about a full can into the pcv line while holding the throttle to keep the car from dying. It's also important not to rev it too high, just enough not to kill it. Then take out your plugs and spray 1/2 - 1 can in each cyllinder. I think you then crank the engine a little to prevent vapor lock. Let it set overnight or it's not really worth it to do the pistons. The next day, let it idle for a few minutes, then clean the plugs and change the oil and you're set! I might have missed something, but it's at that website mentioned regardless - it's a 5hitsubishi website but hey those Talon AWD's are cool cars IMO.

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax muffler, K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor, synthetic oil, flexlite transmission cooler, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

You can buy Top Engine Cleaner in an aeresol now, and you can spray it into the PCV Breather (not the valve) on the side of the TB. You may have to partially cover the hole w/ your finger while you spray to prevent to much air from getting in around the MAF.

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'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--

'97 Bonneville SSE

 

I could not find the areosol can so is it alright to just disconnect the breather hose on the passenger side and let the vacuum pull it in?