It sounds like a silly question, and it might be, lol. But an engine will work fine without a thermostat. I learned this when I got stuck by a bad thermostat and had to remove it in order to get going again. In fact, the engine ran GREAT--nice and cool! So if I never replace it, will that cause any long-term problems?

To most of you who need heaters, yes, the thermostat matters. But as I've mentioned in other topic posts, I live in southern California. I don't need my heater, and I haven't used it in years. In fact, when my heater core expired, I simply by-passed it--by removing the hoses(both to and from the firewall) and the vacuum valve, capping the vacuum hose, and routing the cooling hose from the throttle body directly to the radiator. Works great.

As for my A/C, I've probably only used it 14 times in the 17 years I've owned the car(I'm an open windows and t-tops guy, lol). It's gotta be recharged if I want it and converted before it can be recharged. So that's out, too, so I've removed the compressor belt. I'd love to remove the whole system--it would give me so much more room under the hood! I almost ordered the car without it, but my parents had a fit, lol! And who knows? Someday, I might want it back(though I doubt it).

Another reason I don't mind not having A/C or a heater is that this isn't my primary car. This is my "toy," my baby, lol. I don't care that I don't have those accessories anymore.

And as for the fans, they're contolled by the computer, a temp sensor and a fan switch. The cheap little mechanical stat itself actually has nothing to do with the computer or its sensor, so with no stat, the engines systems wouldn't malfunction or show any malfunctions, right? The temp simply might or might not ever get up to a temp to trigger the sensors.

Is it possible for the engine to run too cool? I don't see how. When running, it's always HOT under that hood.

So it sounds perfect, actually. I'd have an engine that always ran nice and cool and strong, and no stupid little $6 mechanical part that can literally bring the car to a hault! Is there anything in the "big picture" that I'm missing here?

 

Without the themostat you run the possability of circulating the coolant to fast at higher rpms and not getting heat transfer then overheating

 

The possibility of overcooling would the major hazard. Also, if your engine does not get to normal operating temp, fuel economy will suffer, and the engine will not run as well as it could.

In other words..... Yes, you need a thermostat.

 

To both of your posts, wouldn't a coolant solution of more water than coolant prevent over cooling or a lack of heat transfer? And a bottle of Hypercool would assist with heat transfer, too.

And as for high rpms, consider a normal operating range, not a high one. I don't race it.

 

With a 160 stat, the engine temp is always way down anyway. Are you sure that's not a pretty normal operating temp for an engine with or without a thermostat?

 

I run no thermostat in the summer and my car always runs at 160. Never cooler and only hotter when it sits for too long. If you run it this way in the winter it will either not reach proper operating temp, or will take way too long for it to be worth it.

 

But going by your screen name, you're "stupid," lol. J/k.

But my winters are like summers. So that's not a worry here. But yeah, 160 seems to be the temp it operates at all the time anyway, unless sitting, like you said.

My car has always run so hot, that I've always looked for ways to keep it cooler. And after having stats fail, I just don't trust them anymore. And so far, running no stat has SEEMED to workout well.

I'm not saying I'm right or that any of you are wrong. I'm looking for opinions on the matter, and then I'll decide for myself.

Thanks so far.

 

you wouldn't need a t-stat but you would need a restricter to slow the flow of the coolent so that enough heat transfer occurs to keep the engine from over heating.

 

Is there such a thing, or is that something that would require a bit of creative engineering--like a washer or something similar to partially fill the hole where there stat would normally be?

Hey stupid4901(lol, sorry dude, it's just too funny), are you using anything to restrict your flow?

 

moroso sells them, but wouldn't be hard to make

 

Thanks. That's something to look into. And yeah, once I get an idea of what it looks like, maybe I can create one of my own.

 

I do the same thing in my blazer. Never comes close to overheating. When I floor it all the way up my hill, it BEGINS to get hot, but it's still right around the acceptable temp, nothing to even blink at.

I don't think there would be any long term concerns, except for the winter part. (Winters here in hawaii are just wetter, not colder.)

As far as gas milage, it will probably be worse if you don't get into the acceptable temp range. However, since these guys are saying high rpm's will lessen heat transfer, just floor it a bit and you should be good to go! =) (Awesome, I learned somethin' new- Floor it, to get BETTER milage!)

Like I said, I do this on my blazer, and I live at the top of a hill. My gas milage will always suck no matter what I do. So, I guess I'm no help there.

Laters.
-Scott

 

I was on my way out to walk the dog when your message came through. Thanks for that great laugh before I go, Scott, LOL! I'll remember to floor it.

 

There is a pretty good post to read about this on the cooling board. Might want to check that out.

 

Some running examples

 

The answer is no because obviously there are many cars out there that do not run a thermostat and run very well. There just don't seem to be many on this message board. That's probably because most 3rd-gens are computer controlled and the low running temperature creates another problem to solve to keep the ECM happy... or I guess it could be because of misinformation being propagated on here. I don't really know, but the answer is no, a thermostat is not always necessary.

 

looks like a big washer

 

No stat may throw your cts off as well and cause a rich condition....

~Shotz~

 

Yes it does... hence the CTS tricker box=> LINK

 

Excellent info, 305 sbc, i had no idea. You learn something new everyday

~Shotz~

 

I run a 180 degree thermostat. My single fan is wired to run anytime the key is on. Mine runs at the 160 mark all the time. I do believe the gauge reads alittle on the low side though. Getting autometer gauges soon. Should know for sure then.

 

ok with running a cooler motor doesn't mean runninga better motor


your motor runs at best efficiency and power when the motor itself is hotter


the hotter the moter the beter as long as you are not going into detonation or warping parts


if I remember right a motor is only about mid 20% efficient
the rest of the energy that can be used to make power goes out the exhuast, pumping losses, frictional loss, and cooling losses or heat being pulled into the cooling system.


if you have a sealed area like a combustion chamber the hotter it gets the more pressure builds on the inside

we all know hot air expands right?
same thing with the a/f mixture

so when you start running the motor colder like with no therm or a lower temp therm you are pulling a lot of that heat from the combustion chamber out of there and putting it in the cooling system instead which means less pressure inside the cylinder



now some reasons as to why ppl still put the lower temp therm/ remove therm

less chance of detonation but that is a tuning issue

colder intake temps running a colder motor reduces underhood temps. but if you can isolate the intake track and manifold away from haet you would be better

the computer setup when running a colder motor sometimes it lets runs a little richer giving a little more power (sometimes) but again this falls under tuning.... tune better would be a better option then oclder therm



and I'm sure there are other reasons

but generally running a stock or hotter therm would be better then colder if you actually want to tune the car

 

why is it still showing some other dude as posting last when I had the last post?

 

As obviously seen here all our cars will react differently to changes-hence hot rodding. When I first installed my electric water pump I thought about the 4 1/8" holes in the thermostat, but did'nt want to burn up the pump-or chance it anyways. So I bought the Moroso restrictors I first installed the big one-believe gold in color and 1" hole, car ran hot, right around 180-200* depending on what I was doing. Brought 'er back to the shop and installed the medium, blue with a 3/4" hole and then she was at 160* all the time. For my application the restrictor plate works great for bracket racing since i can leave the pump and fans running until the engine hits 140* then they shut off automatically. It works great in street drving and cruises/parades but I'll chock my running hot sometimes up to the stock radiator, we'll see with the new motor and new Howie if that was the case. That's my 2 cents for my situation-when the water passed through to quick I ran hot period.

 

The hotter the motor runs the more power it will make. But for street cars I would rather sacrafice alittle HP for reliability. Running 160-195 area is a safe water temp. Better safe than sorry.

 

still would think a hotter therm would be better

if your worried about running into trouble that is when you get a good waterpump and even better radiator as well as a heavy duty electric fan


also think they sell a device for your electric fans to adjust fan speed based upon engine temps that way you keep your car running at about the same temp all the time rather then have it turn on then of then on then off all the time causing a change in engine temps