code 45, tried a bunch of things and nothing
code 45, tried a bunch of things and nothing
Ok, I asked my mechaninc would might be the cause of this and he gave me a list of stuff. I replaced the distributor, cap, plugs, rotor, checked all the wires, everything short of sensors. It's not working. Which sensor and where is the one to fix?
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 0
From: chesapeake va
Car: 08 Sierra, 08 Silverado, 91 z28
Engine: 5.3, 4.3, 5.7
Transmission: autos
Im having that problem too. Any other problems other than the code? Rough idle after warm? Car runs good after light comes on? Ive replaced my o2 twice now and its still doing it, im using a snap-on scanner tomorrow to see whats wrong. Does your have any of the symptons i described?
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Car: 83 z28
Engine: L69
Transmission: BW t-5
I got a 45 from a snap on scanner, I think. Running rich?? Shouldn't be the o2. Try the mixture control solenoid. I was gonna have myn fixed, but now the body needs fixin
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. TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 12
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Code 45 is a rich exhaust indicator, couple of things that could set it.
1. High fuel pressure
2. Fuel contaminated oil
3. HEI shielding
4. Charcoal canister saturated with fuel
5. MAP intermittently sensing a low vacuum
6. TPS intermittent false reading at acceleration.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
1. High fuel pressure
2. Fuel contaminated oil
3. HEI shielding
4. Charcoal canister saturated with fuel
5. MAP intermittently sensing a low vacuum
6. TPS intermittent false reading at acceleration.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
my car will have a rough idle when warm, the tach jumps everywhere, and at around 1100-1500 rpms the car sputters and feels like i'm getting a kick back. Plus when I floor it the carb doesnt seem to suck as much air as before (I'm judging this by the sound). So how do I check the TPS and that other stuff?
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 12
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
On yours, there is a electrical connector with three wires going into your carburator. back probe the top and center wire with a multimeter set to volts DC with the key in the "ON" position. The voltage should be somewhere around .5 or .6 volts with throttle closed. Not really sure about the exact voltage here. To adjust it, you will need a special 2.5MM socket that you can order from NAPA as part of the GM Computer Controlled Carburator socket set. Part number 7002003 and goes for $24.95 + tax. It is a four socket set.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!
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Well the SES light is gone but now I'm getting small explosion things when I rev past 2800 rpms. It souns like a carb backfire and then cables clicking or something, but the light is gone so i guess thats good.
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