I have an 86 transam. this summer i put in:
350 w/ cam
new injectors
hooker headers
AFPR at 49 #
TPIS custom chip
true dual exhaust
cold air intake, etc.

I was wondering what my timing should be at. right now i have it have the stock 305 TPI setting, but it hesitates when i stomp on the pedal really quick. and one time it even died.

is it my timing. should i advance? and how much should i?

Thanks.

 

timing should be advanced as much as possible before you start to get knock.. 8-10* should be good. possibly even higher. get a scanner and slowly advance it until you hear knock, then back off a little.

 

thanks. is the knock at idle while i'm adjusting the timing?

should i redo my idle adjustments after this too?
thanks for the help

 

The knock you will be listening for at idle, as well as through the RPM band. It sounds like the hesitation could be caused else where though (last tune up?). But adjust the timing just for the hell of it.

------------------
91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6
w/GTA gfx,rims,hood

Paxton 10lb blower, SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March pulleys, Crane AFPR(43psi),Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL, Holley 9mm wires, fastchip, Bosch O2sensor, SLP headers & catback,short shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,160* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.

 

You are aware that even though you may not hear a knock, the knock sensor might (and usually does). When "inaudible knock" occurs, it pulls timing away and takes awhile to "decay". Thus, even though you didn't hear any knock, you might have triggered it at lower rpms like 2,000 rpm (usually most noticeable right after a shift) and then it will penalize you through out the power band until it "decays" out.

The eprom is the proper place to adjust the spark. You can add the spark exactly where you want it such that you can get your maximum advance starting (hopefully) right around peak torque. If you encounter "inaudible knock" at a lower rpm, you can back it off in the specific spot where it occurred. Also, you can adjust the "increment rate" to add the retard slower should it be encountered, and remove it quicker so it doesn't penalize you at the higher rpms, where you want it.

Lastly, you can control the advance not just on rpm, but based on "load". Besides WOT, a lot of knock can occur at part throttle, usually when a load is on the engine like when you are climbing a hill.

Advancing the the distributor is something you do on a non-computer car built prior to the 80s. We are in the 21st century now.