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Distributor/manifold problem

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Old Feb 1, 2001 | 07:15 PM
  #1  
Digger's Avatar
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From: Saskatchewan,Canada
Distributor/manifold problem

My distrubuter will not sit all the way down. The lip of the distributer is about 1/16" above the manifold. I have an edelbrock torker intake. could the manifold be 1/16" lower than the stock one. And could I just put a washer under it. Because the oil pump works and the distributer turns. or could it be my high volume oil pump? any ideas?

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82 Camaro Z28
35 w/4 bolt mains
9.5:1 comppresion
heavily ported 882 heads
gasket matched Torker intake Edelbock Performer 750 carb
Speed pro cam 222 @.05 .447 lift
headers with straight pipes
Borg Warner T-10
Posi

Another 82 Camaro Z28
Black w/silver racing stripes
355
Edelbrock Performer intake and 750 carb
4 bolt mains
69 camaro heads 64cc
9:1 compression
TH-350 w/stage 2 shift kit
275/60R15 out back
205/60R15 front
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Old Feb 1, 2001 | 10:53 PM
  #2  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Sure seems like the distributor isn't seated in the pump...

Did you have the heads shaved/milled? and then the intake manifold matched?
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Old Feb 1, 2001 | 10:58 PM
  #3  
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Or is the distributor gear pinned a little low? The correct gear for the engine/pump?

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Later,
Vader
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Old Feb 2, 2001 | 06:10 PM
  #4  
Digger's Avatar
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From: Saskatchewan,Canada
The distributer seated fine in my 305. I didnt touch anything on it I just yanked it out and put it in my 350.The heads have never been milled. could the Torker intake be lower than the stock one?
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Old Feb 2, 2001 | 07:51 PM
  #5  
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Its possible the manifold isnt machined right... wouldnt be the first time. The gasket takes up a little space, do you have one on there? Maybe you could use 2, but I would make sure the distributor isnt jammed up against the oil pump shaft if you try that or a washer, that could end up in damaged parts.
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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 02:29 AM
  #6  
burnoutrpm's Avatar
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From: outerspace(maybe..pluto)?
try re-stabbing the distributor they are tricky on sbc's i have a touqure 2 manifold and mine seats fine try re-stabbing it!

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1989 firebird formula

Mods: converted from T.B.I. to a carburator 305 to a 350. Flowmater exhaust,hedman shortie hedders,202 160 (882) heads,.447/.447 lift 222@.050 duration speed pro 327/350hp cam 350 .40 over (356) Edlebrock torker2 and a 600 edlebrock manual choke (1405)

Future mods performer rpm air gap intake (polished) comp roller cam, and way better headsa 400 defintely in the works!
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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 02:20 PM
  #7  
I ROCK's Avatar
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
I can give you a failsafe way to "restab" it if you want - I just did it about 20 times thinking it was off - really was a bad ecm!!

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Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: Accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, hopefully engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...
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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 03:10 PM
  #8  
GMTech's Avatar
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
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How the hell does a bad ECM keep the distributer from fully seating? I must need to go back to school.

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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 04:37 PM
  #9  
JakeJr's Avatar
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From: Kempner,TX,
Car: 1996 Vette / 1992 GSX1100F Suzuki
Engine: 1996 Corvette Coupe 388 LT1 (+.060)
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.07
There are a couple of things to do here.

Sometimes the tang at the bottom of the distributor is slightly thicker than the slot in the oil pump drive and the distributor won't fully insert into the drive.

On a few engines, I've had to apply slight downward hand pressure to the distributor while cranking the engine to get the distributor to fully seat.

The second, and preferable way is to measure everything.

Remove the distributor and insert a thin metal tape into the distributor housing. Make sure it bottoms out in the oil pump drive. You can use a hack saw blade in a pinch and mark where the blade is flush with the manifold distributor flange.

Measure that distance, then measure the distance from the bottom of the distributor tang to the manifold mounting flange.

Measurement one should be greater than #2.

Keep us posted.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9
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Old Feb 5, 2001 | 02:44 PM
  #10  
I ROCK's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 496
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
LOL GM Tech...it wasn't that the distributor wasn't seating properly it was that the car wouldn't idle for **** with the bad ecm so I thought I was putting the dist in a tooth or two off. So I just kept redoing it. Now with the new ecm she purrs like a very large kitten.

------------------
Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: GMPP 8MM wires, Accel cap&rotor, AC Plugs
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, flow tech headers on the way,
engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...
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Old Feb 5, 2001 | 02:54 PM
  #11  
Ed Maher's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
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From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
Lol, my favorite expression is 'distributor was a tooth off'
I've put distributors in a few teeth off ON PURPOSE to change the positions of the wires coming off the cap. In case you weren't aware, you can turn the distributor to adjust the phasing of the rotor and the cap, some of us call this 'setting the timing', and since the distributor can rotate 360' (or 720' or 1080') you can't put it in a tooth off. You can just be too close minded to turn the distributor a few degrees to get it lined up properly.
Not meant as a flame, just pointing out that it makes me laugh...ed
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