I've never done a V8 intake gasket before. I know there is two gaskets, one for each head. Do I just put sealant around the water jackets and between the two heads and then put the gaskets on? Any info here is appreciated. I know there is a tightening sequence already though.

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'89 Formula 383 TPI

 

I use some copper spray around the intake ports, and Permatex Ultra-Grey around the water jackets and down the block rails. Its the same stuff GM uses on their crate motors so it has to be decent. I haven't had one leak yet.

Also, use some teflon paste around the intake bolts that go into the lifter valley so you don't get that annoying oil seepage around the bolt heads after a few miles.

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-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28

 

if there are any pits in the head or intake i use a little permatex ultracopper around the water passages and use k&w copper spray on sealer on the long intake gaskets. if the engine is on a stand i use a punch and make punch marks all along the front and rear ends walls of the block as well as the intake and use the factory rubber gaskets with ultracopper on the ends where they meet up. if it's in the car i use ultracopper on the ends too, lay a 1/4" bead dow nand let it sit about 20 minutes and install the intake. i've never had problems with either method ,but it's hard to see if the rubber seals move with the engine in the car. i've never saw the ultra gray, or what ever it's called but i'd like to try it, not heard anything but good about it.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

All the tips above are perfect. If you get a intake gasket set with end seals, throw them in the garbage and use silicone. Trust me on this one!

 

I use ultra blue around the water jackets - just a small 1/8" bead or so - high tack to keep the gaskets in place, and a big fat 3/8" bead or so of the right stuff for the end seals. If you don't want to pay $15 for the right stuff just use the ultra blue on the ends. I've never had leaks with that stuff. Also, I used permatex b2 non-hardening silicone on the bolt threads. Basically if you take anyones advice that's posted so far you'll be fine. Another thing that would help is to buy new intake bolts, then cut the heads of 6 of your old bolts - then put the homemade studs in one of the heads and use them to guide the intake down after making the end seals. Once it's down, put in six of the new bolts on the other side finger tight and then replace the "studs" with the other new ones.

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Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: GMPP 8MM wires, Accel cap&rotor, AC Plugs
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension/Drivetrain: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, All synthetics, Flexlite Transmission cooler
On the way: flow tech headers, alum. driveshaft

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