Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone has attempted to fill a block after all the machine work has been done. I was just going to use the short fill (street version) to fill the block up to the bottom of the freeze plugs or so since my rails had to be clearanced for the 383. Plus since this motor is going to be a soild roller it will see around 7k+ at times so I figured a little hardblok would be a good idea.


I called HardBlok already they said just assemble the bottom end and tq everything to specs then put in the head studs and level off one side and then add the hardblok follow the instructions after it's ready to set and cure put the head on and tq the head down and I should be fine. Wait 24 hours+ come back and level out the other side and do the exact same for it.

I might just install the other head on the first side while I'm at it though that way I know both sides of the block are correctly held.

Anyone got any suggestions on pouring it so I know it's exactly at the freeze plugs (there installed so I was just gonna pour acouple inches worth in each jacket) probably then stick a metal wire down in the jacket till I hit the hardblok that way I could measure on the outside of the block to tell the approx location. I'm sure my engine builder has done it before.

Take a freeze plug out on each side and replace it afterwards.

Sounds good to me. I guess I'll make a trip out to the autoparts store and pick up some new freeze plugs.

Come to think of it... the shop installed tin freeze plugs I believe. I might just hold off on putting the hardblok in till I can get a full set of brass ones. That way I might save myself a leak down the road.

Or maybe I will just go ahead and fill the block tonight and pull out all the freeze plugs and clean them. Having the plugs out shouldn't distort the block that much IMHO, right? I mean if the filler expands it's going to put some tension on the plugs anyways.

The freeze plugs are totally insignificant to the structure of the block. Not an issue at all. You can do whatever you need to do with or without them, as long as you don't try to fill it with coolant.

Yeah that's what I figured. I'll just pull all the plugs on one side of the bank clean the sealer off and follow the directions on the hardblok. Let it cure then switch the block over remove the others and do that side.

Make sure you put in a piece of plastic tubing or something, so that the drain plugs still work. It's no fun when the only way to drain a block is to turn it upside down.

Looks like I won't be doing it tonight anyways. My Head Studs are still being UPS'd they should come tomorrow... even though they were sch. for today. I would use head bolts instead of studs since those came in my engine bolt kit but I don't wanna. I'll just wait a little bit and do it. I can still put together the lower end tonight though hopefully.

Just a heads up to 400 SBC owners, it should be obvious (but it wasn't to me) that a street fill for a 400 takes a lot less Hardblok than other SBC's (350, 327, 305,etc.) because of the siamesed bores. You might find you have put in more Hardblok than you wanted or you can't figure out why you have so much Hardblok left when you filled it to the recommended level.

This is off the topic but oh well. The crank is in the block now. There was a slight mishap though my ARP stud nuts were to big to use a regular 6 pt socket on the outside so I went ahead and used bolts for the outside and studs on the inside... long story short broke a bolt off inside the block came right out though (got really lucky) pulled other bolts out found them stretched out too. Spent 20 minutes finally found a 12 pt socket that would fit and used all ARP studs. Nice to know the bolts provided by my machine shop which they told me to use was high quality.

WTF is hardblok?

Google is an amazing tool.
http://www.hardblok.com/

Pretty much a water jacket filler. Used in circle track or other high rpm turners. For our uses it's good to fill up to the bottom freeze plugs. Gives you more support in the lower end, especially when you have to clearance for rod bolts... which I might add was my other mistake last night. Stupid shop didn't clearance the #1 hole Go figure all the rest look done.

Also it lets your oil get hotter faster so it gets up to optimal temp.