I'm assuming that I can bump the starter to get the piston at TDC?

If a valve, any valve, is closed completely then I can tighten the rocker down and apply the quarter turn. I know there are some sequences that would be good to follow but I'm getting frustrated with all of these methods....that are available.

I've tried to turn the crank..but of course have the spark plugs in and it's a b*tch.

I don't want to run the engine and do the adjustment because of all the smog and heater crap that's all over the place.

Thanks for your input.

 

I have a 24" breaker bar with a 5/8" socket on the bolt on the harmonic balancer/pulley

 

With a socket on the balancer bolt, there's a risk of snapping the bolt if the spark plugs are left installed. A strap wrench around the balancer sheaves would be better, but bumping the engine with the starter can get you close if you're persistent.

 

yeah that would suck. then I'd just **** on my car and burn it. and cry.


good point, I won't do that anymore

 

When I took the rocker nuts off I kept them in order and didn't loosen or tighten any of the set screws on each bolt. Is it possible /adviseable, to just screw them on and call it good?

Is there a recommended torque setting for tightening the rocker nuts down once the set screws are tightened?

 

Absolutely not. You have to adjust them the proper way.

EO/IC method always works the best.

Rotate the crank until the exhaust just starts to open, adjust the intakve valve.

Rotate the crank until the intake opens all the way, then is just about to close, adjust the exhaust.

Quote:

Is there a recommended torque setting for tightening the rocker nuts down once the set screws are tightened?

You tighten the nuts until the pushrod has just a little bit if resistance when spinning it. Turn an additional 1/2-3/4 turn. Tighten the set screw until it's snug and that's it.

 

Well I started the car and heard knocking rockers of course. Tightened the nuts until I didn't hear any more knocking..tried doing it as slowly as possible to ensure that I was stopping when the knocking stopped.

How exact do I have to be?

With the headers and all the other motor noises it's pretty hard to determine. Reminds me of those hearing tests they used to give in grade school; "press the button when you first start to hear the tone." After awhile you start hearing things that aren't even there.

Reminds me of looking through an IR scope for hours on end when I was in the army..after awhile the green shadows start looking more and more like bad guys!

 

Once you get a rocker nut adjusted to the point where there is no audible knocking or rattling (the "zero-lash" point), you need to adjust the nut a bit further. The further adjustment is called "preload", which positions the lifter pluger deeper into the lifter body. Positioning the plunger near the center of its travel in the lifter body will allow the lifter some room to hydraulically adjust the valve train to compensate for wear, expansion, and changes.

The exact amount of preload is a small matter of controversy. Factory specifications are typically 1/2-3/4 turn of the nut. A higher profile cam lobe may require a little less adjustment to prevent lifter pump-up at higher RPM and valve float - more like 1/4-1/2 turn after the zero-lash point. Some older engines listed one full turn after zero lash. To be safe, 1/2 turn is generally adequate if you are unsure. Do that on each adjusting nut after the zero lash point, and you shouldn't have to adjust your lifters for a long time.

 

When I set my initially and after running the car for about 50 miles was...
I didnt know when I had the valves completely up so I just turned the crank about an 1/4 turn and tighten till the push rod would not spin or the rockers would not move up or down..I did that for all the rockers and then crank the motor another 1/4 turn and did it again..and again and again...When I first started the motor I was pretty close..so after I drove it to get my exhaust finished up I could tell the that some of the rockers were loose and making the clacking noise so I pulled the covers off and found that some of the push rods could still turn....I then went thru the same process and once I got them all tightend I gave them a 1/4 turn more.....covered them all up and no more noisy rockers...I still get some noise but I heard thats a gimmi with rollers.

It may not be the techically correct way but I did read that some have done it with great success.