Regular Hudraulic Cam In Roller Block
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Regular Hudraulic Cam In Roller Block
Is there any problem with using a conventional cam in a 1 piece seal roller block? What do you do with the original thrust plate?
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You just have to use non-roller lifters, a non-roller timing chain set, and the cam. It will work fine. You won't have to use that spider retainer thing in the lifter valley anymore either.
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Re: Regular Hudraulic Cam In Roller Block
Originally posted by muggsyjack
Is there any problem with using a conventional cam in a 1 piece seal roller block?
Is there any problem with using a conventional cam in a 1 piece seal roller block?
What do you do with the original thrust plate?
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Originally posted by ede
you'd need differant length push rods to match the hydrolic cam.
you'd need differant length push rods to match the hydrolic cam.
I feel retarded asking this since I have done so much engine work but what is the trust plate?
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The thrust plate is a little plate that bolts between the timing gear and the cam. It bolts to the face of the block. It looks like this kind of (this is a Ford thrust plate)

The front of a stock roller cam or stock replacement is notched, like this:

The notched area slips into the center of the plate, in the big hole, and the plate prevents the cam from "Walking" forward in the block.

The front of a stock roller cam or stock replacement is notched, like this:
The notched area slips into the center of the plate, in the big hole, and the plate prevents the cam from "Walking" forward in the block.
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Ok I gotcha. Thats what I was thinking it was but I wasn't positive.
Why do roller cams need it but a non-roller cam doesn't?
Why do roller cams need it but a non-roller cam doesn't?
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The lobes on roller cams are ground flat, rather than a tappered profile that is found on the flat tappet cams. That contact between the lifter and the tappered lobe creates a force that pushes the cam towards the rear of the block. Because the roller lobes are flat in comparison, they are free to walk forward. Although, i think they have to overcome the force of the distributor drive still.
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I see...
Only reason I see to switch to a hydraulic flat tappet cam over a roller is the price and availability of non-roller cams. But once you get a non-roller cam, lifters, pushrods, and timing set your looking at about the same amount of money. I almost switch to flat tappet because I couldn't find a lower lift cam (.450 area) that had the duration and lobe separation I wanted. But I went ahead and settled for a lt4 roller cam. I plan on switching that out once I get new heads. Probably get a XE270HR cam. Should see a nice gain.
Only reason I see to switch to a hydraulic flat tappet cam over a roller is the price and availability of non-roller cams. But once you get a non-roller cam, lifters, pushrods, and timing set your looking at about the same amount of money. I almost switch to flat tappet because I couldn't find a lower lift cam (.450 area) that had the duration and lobe separation I wanted. But I went ahead and settled for a lt4 roller cam. I plan on switching that out once I get new heads. Probably get a XE270HR cam. Should see a nice gain.
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