Very quick camshaft install Q
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 137
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From: Portland, OR
Car: '86 Z28
Engine: LB9 (305 TPI)
Transmission: 700R4 w/kit
Very quick camshaft install Q
I'll keep it short and to the point...
Do you have to remove the engine in our cars to install a camshaft or not?
Do you have to remove the engine in our cars to install a camshaft or not?
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Nope, you just have to undo a lot of things including the oil pan. Is what i do, is i unbolt all but the last couple and for those, i leave them in, but very loose. That lets the oil pan fall down enough for clearance.
Yopu jack the car up, but the engine can remain fully bolted in.
Yopu jack the car up, but the engine can remain fully bolted in.
Last edited by Stekman; Mar 24, 2004 at 11:50 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Right; you don't have to remove it, but if it's easy for you to do so, you may find that it makes the job as a whole faster doing it that way than leaning over it. It depends on your setup.
You'll have to remove the A/C condenser (which can be done without disconnecting or draining it by pivoting it and the compressor together as a unit up and out of the way); and remove or sodomize the bracket under the hood latch. Plus drop the oil pan a little bit and all that.
You'll have to remove the A/C condenser (which can be done without disconnecting or draining it by pivoting it and the compressor together as a unit up and out of the way); and remove or sodomize the bracket under the hood latch. Plus drop the oil pan a little bit and all that.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,748
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
The only real problem I had doing the cam swap with the motor in my car was getting it past the two crossed front end braces. I could not for the life of me get them off so I just had someone pull them up slightly and the cam came right out. I also lucked out and didn't have to drop the oil pan.
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone
I also lucked out and didn't have to drop the oil pan.
I also lucked out and didn't have to drop the oil pan.
i do it with the engine still in the car, it is fairly easy, last time i did it, i snuck it out without even removing the accessories.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,748
Likes: 560
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Dewey316
i do it with the engine still in the car, it is fairly easy, last time i did it, i snuck it out without even removing the accessories.
i do it with the engine still in the car, it is fairly easy, last time i did it, i snuck it out without even removing the accessories.
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From: Seattle, Washington
Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
If you have a two piece rear main seal, you don't have to remove the oil pan. You do have to make a timing cover modification though.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I have a "tutorial" that I made when I did my swap. I answered a ton of my own questions actually performing it, as well as tons of help from TGO members. Thanks
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=224633
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=224633
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