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Help me plan my Procharged 350 project (Part1-bottom end)

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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 11:53 PM
  #1  
LiveandLetDrive's Avatar
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From: Manhattan,KS
Car: 1977 Corvette
Engine: 350 w/ 218/.454 cam, Performer intake, stock smog heads, dual exhaust
Transmission: TH350
Help me plan my Procharged 350 project (Part1-bottom end)

Hey guys, well this will be my first engine build, although I have done some minor stuff like a cam, intake, and soon a change of heads on my current engine. I've been asking alot of friends, but I wanted to get a wider range of opinions before I lay my hands on the thing.

Here's some of my general ideas for the project: It all started when I got a 2-bolt virgin (unbored, unmessed with) '78 block for $20. Rotating assembly was included too, but it is all factory cast so I have no need for it. I want to make some serious power and use an ATI Procharger centrifugal supercharger to get there (P-1SC). I would like some high RPMs, but nothing too crazy. That alone would be enough for me to figure out, but here's the kicker, I want it on the street. I drive cross country and in traffic, it is a daily driver (and will stay that way). This also needs to be as budget as possible (don't laugh )

Most of the driveability issues will have more to do with the heads/CR/cam/tranny choices I think, and for now I'm starting at the bottom and working up. So far I am thinking about: Scat 4340 forged crank (normal weight), Scat H-beam rods, JE forged pistons. I don't have alot of money to dump into the trick lightweight parts, but I will not skimp on the important things. All bolts will be ARP (or better if there is something). I think I will need to 4-bolt splay this block also.

1. What do you think of my choices?

2. What little modifications can I do to these parts? I have heard of "block filling" to strengthen. I also intend to balance/blueprint everything. Is there casting flash to remove or minor modifications to the block I can do?

3. Know of any cars with centrifugal S/Cs? Links would be very helpful.

Thanks alot, I will keep you all updated as I research more, and as I get into it this summer.
-Chris

Dammit, I was hoping to pull the first-post off without any newbie questions, but any ideas why my picture in the sig isn't working? It is surrounded by the usual [.img.] and [./img.] Or does it just not show up for me? (periods just to keep it from trying to make an image here.)

Last edited by LiveandLetDrive; Mar 26, 2004 at 12:03 AM.
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Old Mar 26, 2004 | 12:39 AM
  #2  
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Wow. Never responded to a newbie before! lol

Seems like a sound bottom end to me. If you plan on running high RPM's. splayed main caps make sense too. But ....

I question why you want high RPM power with a blower.

Superchargers are great for low RPM power AFAIK. Unless I'm thinking too much about roots type blowers, which may not apply to centifugals, not sure.

I'd go turbo for a high rpm engine.

I don't think you'll need to fill the block, and yes, make sure it's balanced. I wouldn't go over 8.5:1 compression, so you may get by on pump gas. Try the power adder board.

Those guys have the details on that stuff. I just stayed n/a myself!
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Old Mar 26, 2004 | 01:54 AM
  #3  
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Yea, I don't think "budget" and "supercharger" go together but looks like a sound plan and similar to what I'd like to do.

For any type of forced induction and NOS you want the strongest bottom end possible. That 2bolt main block would probably be fine (they get a bad rap) although to be safe you'd probably want a 4bolt or have the conversion done. I hear that 2 bolt main blocks that are converted to 4 actually end up stronger than a factory 4 bolt, but don't have any first hand experience with that one. The forged crank, pistons, and rods are all a must and I'd go for strength over weight for a supercharged setup.

Block "filling" is only for drag motors where they're not run long enough to overheat, for a driver you're gonna want every bit of cooling you can get, especially with the small radiator and tiny frontal area those cars have.

Superchargers make more HP at low RPM than a turbo does but they are still RPM driven devices (faster you spin 'em the more air they move) and make the most of their power at the upper limits of their RPM range which you can control depending on how much boost you allow. So you are still building a screamer but the nice thing is, it should pull hard through the entire RPM range and not have the heat problems associated with a turbo. I'd think sticking to around 9:1 compression (or less) with about 8lbs of boost and close to stock gearing, should make a streetable car that is still scary fast.

Keep in mind though too, the more air you force in, the more fuel you need as well and the less economy you will have. So that may not be desirable for long trips. HP is directly related to fuel consumed so any powerful motor whether it's a big block 454 or a supercharged small block with the same output is going to burn approx the same amount of gas. I'm not sure how this all compares at a steady cruising speed, but something to consider before building a "cross country" car that only has a 150 mile range.
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Old Mar 26, 2004 | 03:49 PM
  #4  
LiveandLetDrive's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Manhattan,KS
Car: 1977 Corvette
Engine: 350 w/ 218/.454 cam, Performer intake, stock smog heads, dual exhaust
Transmission: TH350
That's about the range it has now!

If I could stay with a 2-bolt and just use the best bolts I can buy, or better caps, that would be great. A friend told me $650 for the conversion! That would be nice to bypass. It would be nice to go with the superlightweight stuff as it would make a 2bolt more of a possiblity by causing less stress, but either way looks like I am spending money somewhere... I've also heard of splayed 4-bolts being stronger than factory 4-bolts.

That's the impression I got about block filling from my dad, I am already considering adding cooling lines to the rear of the heads to aid in even cooling. I don't think I want to handicap the system by filling it up! (btw, the radiator isn't really small, but you're right, the nose isn't very good at getting air in at all)

Full range power is what I'm looking for! The main turn-off to turbochargers is the cost. All of the custom piping that would have to be created would add up very quickly. Other than building the motor itself, I don't think there are alot of extra costs just to put in the Procharger system. It's a pretty complete kit. Don't worry though, other systems like fuel, ignition, cooling, etc. will not be neglected.

Does anyone have experience with parts they'd recommend? Or bad ones to stay clear of?

Thanks guys, keep it comin',
Chris

I'm going to cross-post this on over to the forced induction section and see what those guys have to say.
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