I need help, i cant keep driving these other cars.

Here is the problem. My car has a l03 305 with performer rpm intake carb.and rear end gears and posi. The car was doing great until lately.
When it would rev to around 4500rpms it would sputter like mad. It would only do it once in a while though. So i thought it was fuel starvation. One day while i was at almost empty i filled the tank to capacity and it started missing bad. almost like no fuel. After that day, everyday it got worse until now i have to floor it for it to start and hold it there.

My first attempt was to check ignition. Ihad just rebuilt a hei distributor and I checked that out first, I got a new one and it still did it. So after that i checked timing with a light and the light seemed erratic. It would fire in normally spaced intervals like its supposed to and would stop for about half a second and continue.

I thought it was the alternator, so i tested it and got 14 volts, i still havent tested amps. Then i got a holley blue pump and installed it at the front of the car. Same thing, changed fuel filter and found it was clogged i coulnt blow air through it???? unlike the new one.

I was thinking could i have ruled out the alternator to quickly. Why would ignition skip like that. I have bought new wires and everything. The only thing left is the alternator.
What do you guys think it could be.

Oh yeah by the way I have a perfectly good and working Vacuum HEI for sale now with a vacuum advance of 10 degrees. And a holley blue pump for sale with only a couple of hours of use.
Thank you guys for your help!

 

I'd say your magnetic pickup wires inside the distributor are dried out and cracked. Disassemble the distributor and replace the pickup or install another distributor.

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87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

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87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

I had a similar problem before with my rebuilt distributor, so i replaced the pickup coil as by stephens suggestions and it was fixed. I already have a brand new pickup coil on my rebuilt distributor, and i just got another rebuilt distributor thats doing the same thing. odds of both of the distributors being bad due to pickup coil are monumental.

I need much help in this brain storm.
Im gonna have to drop in a auto parts reman 350.(its started burning white exhaust) I need this car, its the only one i have.
Oh yeah can i get a reman 350 and just change the cam for a nice little ride!!
Damn im depressed, thanks guys for your help again!!

 

TBI,

So to summarize, you've replace the distributor (which includes the amplifier module, reluctor, and pickup coil) plug wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, and tested the alternator output voltage. You have to hold the throttle wide open to start the engine and keep it running, and missing at higher RPM is a big problem.

I would suggest removing the top of the carb (or bowl level plugs if it's a Holley) and check/set the float level. It sounds like the mixture is way too rich. Your new fuel pump may have had an output pressure that's way too high for the inlet needle/float to regulate. Even though the pump may have been removed, you need to check the float level.

This has nothing to do with the ignition missing, so you have a bit more to do. When you replaced the distributors, did you also replace teh ignition coil? A faulty/weak coil will cause weak spark, missing, and hard starting. You also need to make sure the coil is the correct one for the HEI amplifier module installed in the replacement distributor. There are different modules for different primary resustance coils for some ThirdGens. If you have a coil-in-cap distributor, this may be a factor.

You should also check the primary wiring to the distributor and coil. Poor connections and grounds there can cause weak spark and missing.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now..."
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A Holley red pump is regulated. The blue pump needs a regulator. I'm not sure how much it puts out at full pressure but I have mine regulated to 7 psi. It is possible that your pump is putting out too much pressure for the carb. The extra pressure can lift the needle off the seat and flood the carb.

 

I have the right coil the yellow wired one. I also changed coils as well. Checked wire routing checked impedance on all wires. Although now that i remember i did increase plug gap from .35 to .40 I gotta look into that

I opened the carb today thinking the same thing about the float. Also did a light rebuild on it. I checked it and it was fine, but to make sure i lowered the float a little. Oh yeah and is this pump supposed to make the fuel presure go back and forth from 4 to 5 psi back and forth. I cant get it steady. I doesnt go under 4 or higher than 6(where i have it set). which the old pump did also. I got the mallory 3 port reg.

Also stephen, damn is that pump really neccesary on your car, the hoses feel like the niagra falls are going through it.
I am thinking the worse, that i somehow floated a valve. I never take this engine past 4500rpms, but about 3 weeks ago i took it to 6000rpms, wow is this what ive been missing?!
Im thinking since i need my car to get a engine from discount auto, its 700 dollars if i give them my 350 core sitting in the garage(to get a reman 350). What I was wondering is what hp do you guys think these thing come with(compression), I will be happy with around 230hp for now. After the year warranty expires im gonna teat the thing down and pull around 320 hp. I have no time to rebuild the engine, i am acting out of desperation, no engine=nocar=no money=no food= no house= being out in the street


Thanks guys!

 

if you think that it still may be the distributer, look at the bushing in the distributer that that internal shaft runs on. i have seen alot of them wear out and the timing jumps around because the distributer wont stay set. hope this helps.

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Wide Open Till You See God...Then Brake