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Can you pull the oil pan while it's in the car?

Old Mar 29, 2004 | 03:29 PM
  #1  
StealthElephant's Avatar
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From: Woodbury, NJ
Car: 87' Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Can you pull the oil pan while it's in the car?

Well? My 350 has like 1000 miles on it, and it leaks more oil then my 305 with 80k miles and a bad rear main. Ever time I go under the car the oil pan is just covered in oil.

It was leaking in front by the timing chain cover, so I put a nice thick bead of RTV there, oil is still accumulating there, and it looks like it's leaking everywhere. It was a used oil pan, so I'm guessing it might be an issue that the pan isn't sitting flat on the block.

Someone told me I could pull the pan with the engine still in the car, and then just put a new one in with a 1 piece gasket.
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 03:39 PM
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: '99 HO Z28 / '03 Trailblazer
I did it once.

To be safe, it might be prudent to pull your distributor or at least take off the cap and rotor.

place the car on jackstands and using a 2x4 under your oilpan remove the engine mount bolts and jack the engine up. Once youve got some clearance, you need to place something (blocks of wood, etc) between the motor and the mounts. This will let you remove the jack from under the oilpan, but leave the motor sitting high.

at this point you can try to remove the oilpan. In my case, I could get the pan to drop, but not enough to remove it. remove the old gasket and clean all the surfaces of old gasket material and oil. apply the new gasket. replace oilpan torque to manuf specs. the rest should be self explainatory. Its a PITA, but if you dont have access to an engine hoist it will work.

HTH! :lala:
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 03:47 PM
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RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
This motor doesn't have a smog pump, right?
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 03:47 PM
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
It would be easier to rent a engine hoist to lift the engine IMO.
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 04:03 PM
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From: Woodbury, NJ
Car: 87' Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
This motor doesn't have a smog pump, right?
Of course not

I know someone with a fold up engine hoist, thats not the problem.

Like you said, will I be able to slide the pan out?

Even if I unbolt the bellhousing and lift the engine up, am I going to get screwed and not be able to remove the pan? Geez...If I'm going to have to unbolt the Ypipe and remove aALL connections I might as well pull my engine out and put it on a stand.

The oil is just driving me nuts though, I just don't know what else I could possibly do. Tracking oil under the car is a nightmare....
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 04:05 PM
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: '99 HO Z28 / '03 Trailblazer
I think it will just vary depending on your car. Wont know until you try. Not being able to COMPLETELY remove the pan really isn't a huge deal, unless you plan to swap the pan itself.
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 04:15 PM
  #7  
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From: Woodbury, NJ
Car: 87' Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
I want to switch pans. I'm going to buy a new one and get a 1 piece gasket. I have no idea why I'm loosing SOO much oil, like a quart for every 150 miles I drive. My exhaust isn't blue, so I'm not burning it.

Just annoying, it shouldn't leak, it was prepped and sealed like it should have been when it was built.
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 05:05 PM
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Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
you should pay more attention to RB.. the no smog pump was a hint, not just a random question, check the passanger side of your block where the smog pump would be, in the tapped hole slightly to the left of the timing cover.. do you have a bolt in this hole? if not thats your oil leak.
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 05:54 PM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
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Transmission: 5
Exactly!

There are 2 bolt holes on the front of the pass side of the block that hold the smog pump bracket on. The upper one of the 2 looks right at the fuel pump drive rod. In other words, if there's not a bolt in that hole, you are looking RIGHT DIRECTLY INTO the crankcase.

Put a short bolt, like ¾" or so, in that upper hole, with a flat washer and some silicone on the threads; then take the car to the car wash and clean up the mess, and see if it's any better.
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 06:58 PM
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From: under the hood
Car: 88 gta ....89 formula 350
Engine: 5.7......383
Transmission: heavily reworked 700r4
i just changed out my stock pan with a 6qt moroso and yes its a pita. take your motor mount bolts out and gently raise your motor with a good floor jack and place a 2*4 between the mounts...but i would check what the other guys here are telling you before i would go thru changing the pan.
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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 07:08 PM
  #11  
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From: Atlanta, GA, US of A
Car: 94 Z28
Engine: LT1 w/ headers, catback, CAI, tune
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
Yes, that no smog pump crap plagued me and my new engine for quite a while, thought something was seriously screwed up. It wouldn't really leak at idle, but then I got on it hard oil would squirt out and burn off on the exhaust as it got blown up under the car. Made me think I was burning oil on top of the annoying leak I could see getting crap all over the front/bottom of the engine.

Boy was I relieved when I happened to check those holes and find one goes straight into the stupid fuel pump pushrod channel... Plug em up if you haven't...
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 02:24 AM
  #12  
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Car: Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally posted by Air_Adam
It would be easier to rent a engine hoist to lift the engine IMO.
I agree, I've done this TWICE and really wish I had a cherry picker to lift the motor out. I used two bottle jacks to push the motor up, pulled the dizzy first though, and unbolted my headers, removed the starter, and had to jack the motor up quite a bit for clearance. the oil pump is the biggest hinderance I think. It was worth it though, 6 quart chrome oil pan is very trick and the fel pro gasket I recently did seals better than anything else! if you do it inside the garage, on a nice warm and dry day its not so bad... I unfortunately had to do the gasket on a rainy, cold day in the driveway cause I needed to get it done ASAP and it was MISERABLE
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 09:35 PM
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Car: 82 T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: th350 w/ high stall C.
you know what I have a rebuilt 350 with 500 miles on it and the same PROBLEM.
The oil is collecting on the bottom of the front timing cover. I changed the fuel pump block off plate gasket 4 times because i thought that it was the problem.
However those exposed bolt holes seem to be it.
Ill try to plug em up..
later
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 09:50 PM
  #14  
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From: Woodbury, NJ
Car: 87' Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
I actually think it's not the timing cover anymore, but actually the crankshaft seal, the hole in cover where the end of the crank extends out.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 10:00 PM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
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Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
So did you ever put that bolt in there? Or are you going to spend however much time in "maybe it's this, maybe it's that" land?
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 10:16 PM
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From: Woodbury, NJ
Car: 87' Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
There's no smog pump bolt leaking as far as I can tell, I checked, nothing.

It's a late 70's early 80's truck block.

I'll take some pictures sometime this week to better illustrate what has me confused. I've got oil appearing on the block, in the front, where the head meets the block, but the valve covers aren't leaking, and there doesn't appear to be any place it could be coming from.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 10:22 PM
  #17  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Make sure your pics include the place where the smog pump bolts to. If I was the betting kind, I'd be willing to bet money that there's no bolt in the upper hole, and that that's where the oil is coming from.

Just FYI, those were the motor mount bolt holes from 55 to 62. They've always been there since the SBC was introduced. They didn't appear sometime after the late 70s early 80s. They only started being the smog pump bolt holes when they started using smog pumps, in the late 60s.

Go check it. Put a bolt in it. What have you got to lose, besides a few more quarts of oil? (Your oil, not mine, no skin off my nose.... my car doesn't leak there, because I have a bolt in mine).
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 06:53 AM
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From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 11:32 AM
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Car: 82 T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: th350 w/ high stall C.
i just threaded in 2 bolts in the holes and it slightly leaks still.
It might have been other old oil from previous leaks,, but ill keep an eye on any leaks.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 12:13 PM
  #20  
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Take it to the quarter car wash, and clean up the mess from the missing bolt; then it will be a whole lot easier to spot any remaining leaks, without the whole engine room being drenched in freshly spewed oil.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 12:52 PM
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ede's Avatar
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try some PST on the bolts or loctite
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 03:12 PM
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From: waco, tx
Car: 91Z28 L98
Engine: HSR 350
Transmission: Goebel 700R4
This hole that you guys mention on the passenger side of the block. Is it the upper one that is on the mechanical fuel pump housing? If so, looks like I've been running with it open for a year now.
A) Is this the one that should have a bolt in it?
B) This one doesn't go into the crankcase, I can see up in that one.
Attached Thumbnails Can you pull the oil pan while it's in the car?-dsc01540.jpg  
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 06:39 PM
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From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
that the 1.. and I'd put money on it that that is why theres oil all over the front of the block there..
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 06:40 PM
  #24  
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From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
er yeah A to be more specific. oh and thats a snazzy blockoff plate mine have a bowtie on it

Last edited by 89RsPower!; Apr 18, 2004 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 06:53 PM
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From: waco, tx
Car: 91Z28 L98
Engine: HSR 350
Transmission: Goebel 700R4
I saw the bowtie one after I built the engine. Wish I had it. Oh well, how many people see your block off plate anyway? That does seem odd that I haven't lost as much oil as one would think if it's open to the crankcase. Any votes for the Dex-cool leak? I'm pretty sure I know the answer to that one.
To-do list:
Feed dog
Feed self
Take nap
Plug open hole to crankcase

Thanks for the help. I've been trying to track down the oil leak since I built the thing. Rear main probably leaking too. *sigh* But I'll plug the easy one first.
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 11:57 PM
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From: waco, tx
Car: 91Z28 L98
Engine: HSR 350
Transmission: Goebel 700R4
89RS, tonight I looked at the old block I pulled out of my '86 and sure enough, it looks like that bolt hole takes a 90* turn down into the fuel pump housing (crankcase). So I put a bolt in my engine and I'll pray for a reduction in oil leakage. It never was really too bad (never had to add more than a quart), but I can't believe that I ran it that way for almost a year. When I built the new engine, I just didn't put the smog pump on and never thought twice about it. I'm glad I stumbled onto this post..... I wasn't searching for a solution, but happened upon it. Thanks.
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