Current combo is:

'82 350 4 Bolt bored .030" over
*secured with ARP main studs #134-5601

Summit Pro Line 4340 forged crank and rods
*3.48 stroke/5.7" length

Manley Forged 10:1 Sportsmaster Flat Top pistons
*full floating/2 valve reliefs

Speed Pro file fit plasma moly ring set # 9771.035
*file fit to .024" first & second rings

Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 274 hydraulic flat tappet cam
*.487"/.490" lift 230/236 degrees duration at .050" lift/110 lobe sep

Comp Cams Pro Magnum steel roller rockers 1.52-3/8 stud

Cloyes "True" double roller timing chain #9-3100

AFR #1036 195's 64cc street ported heads straight plug
*milled from 74 to 64 cc
*secured with ARP head studs #134-4001

Weiand Stealth intake #8016 dual plane

Speed Demon 750 DP carb

7.25" Fluidampr SFI balancer

Moroso 6 quart pan 8.25" deep #20180

MSD Pro Billet #8361 distributor/MSD Blaster SS coil/6AL

SLP 1.75" shortie headers/no cat

Flowmaster Force II single 3" cat back

Super T10 4 speed transmission

3.73 gears

Car runs great..but needs more..kinda bored with it after 5 years.Car is a summer street toy with occasional strip visit..like 4 times a year.Motor is being pulled in a week or so for a freshening (rings/bearings) and am contemplating a swap to a hydraulic roller?Wanted to go roller when I first built it but the budget ran short at that time.I will buy a new cam regardless once motor is in peices..I personally don't like to reuse flat tappet cams.So as the post asks..would you make the swap?Is it really worth it?If so..what cam would you recommend I swap to?TIA

 

What does the car run now?

What would you like it to run?

For a car that's basically a toy, I'd go to a solid roller rather than a hydraulic, if it was mine.

 

retrofit roller cam
roller lifters
pushrods
cam button
bronze or polymer dist gear

I think that's it, it doesn't seem like much but it wil when you see that each of these items is like 2 or more bills, it adds up quick.

 

I'd also say solid roller ...or even just a solid flat tappet will work out good for ya. I'm not a big fan of hydraulic rollers.

 

No times..ex street race toy.Want to get to a track this year..but usually never happens.It's a fast car..Just want a lil more since I am going into it anyway..don't we all??I contemplated a solid roller..but the high powerband they usually operate in steers me away...the ones I see in Jegs or Summit usually start around 3,500 and up?!?!Prices are high for the retrofit pieces..but if it is worth it..will go that way.I know there are other places that sell them..just window shoppin.That seems a little extreme for a street toy.I also plan to have the heads ported so I want a cam that will work them a little more than the XE274 does..always thought it is small cam for a AFR 195 head?S what solid roller would you recommend all else staying the same in the motor..save for a port and polish on the heads??Thanks so far...

 

I'd go with something like Comp Cams XS282 ...or possibly something a bit smaller if you wanna get a lot out of those heads.

 

I back that motion up 100%....as i have....and will NEVER look back

 

What do you think of these two..the one 88IROC recommended...XS282S/12-678-4 and XR280R/12-771-8?I would rather go with the roller.But the lift is pretty high on the second one..550 and up.Would have to say I will be ditching the Stealth and going single plain huh?

 

Im running a custom ground solid roller from comp

242/254° @ .050"
.570/.583" with 1.5
ground on a 113 LSA

This is using the Xtreme solid lobe design, roller of course. Ive installed it 4° advanced, for now. Im running about 10:1 compression, maybe a tad over. stall speed is at 3200 rpm. For NOW im still using the Edel. RPM AirGap. It runs fine. I will probably sway out to a Team G when the money comes in. I dont think that the Stealth will HURT you that much, considering as how its already geared for higher RPM breathing.

As for the camshafts, get the later of the 2. The first one APPEARS to be a solid flat tappet. That kind of lift isnt normal with solid rollers. and yes, lift in the mid to high .500's is common with solid rollers. The way they are designed allows them to achieve maximum ramp rates and higher lifts than any of the other designs (hydra flat/roller, or solid flat). So theres nothing out of the ordinary with that lift. If you get the later of the 2, id say stalling around 3000 with 10:1 and 3.73 gears would set you up nicely.

 

Yeah I am leaning towards the second one also because of the fact it is a roller.

Comp XR280R (Solid Roller)
280/286° Advertised
242/248° @ .050"
.570/.576" with 1.52
ground on a 110 LSA

Rpm range is 2500-6500 so I think I can get by for the time being with the Stealth.Stall is of no concern..run a manual 4 speed.Only concern is power brakes..gonna miss them.Have to look into a vaccum pump to cure that.Probbaly will call Comp cam help..but they always seem to err to the conservative side.

 

Yea brakes are a b!tch with my cam. I got the electric brake pump that costs like a bit over $200. Works like a CHARM. ive had a few close calls and the braking ability got me out of them. $200 now for a pump. or $2000 later for body repairs. It was a real tough choice

Just be sure to run the specified springs. I cant emphasize the valve springs enough if you go solid roller.

 

I hear ya with the springs..the entire valvetrain will be matched for what the cam calls for.Still looks like big numbers for a lil ol 355...she outta scream with that stick.

 

Ok so after consulting with Comp Cam Help and a few friends that have some experience with solid rollers..everyone backs me up on the choice of the solid roller I posted above:

Comp XR280R (Xtreme Energy Solid Roller)
280/286° Advertised
242/248° @ .050"
.570/.576" with 1.52
ground on a 110 LSA
rpm range is 2500-6500

I now have a few more question before I start buying some of the pieces..stuck on a real world budget (aren't we all)..may be next summer before I have them all

My questions are:

1.Do I want Steel Retainers or Titanium?AFR heads if that matters?

2.Do I want Valve Locks with or without lash cap recesses?(I am thinking WITH because of the solid roller design needing lash set from time to time?)

3.The Comp Valve seals recommended #503-16 are umbrella type?Does that sound right for AFR heads?

4.Comp recommended a stock 7.800" length pushrod?Is it only the factory hydraulic roller motors that need the shorter ones?

Last but not least I am sending the heads out for a port and polish and since I am upgrading them with all new parts to work with the solid roller I am thinking of getting some Manley "Race Flo" valves also?Intake valve 2.02 part # 11566-8 and Exhaust valve 1.600 part # 11565-8?Or should I get the heads cut for larger valves?Thanks so far for all the replies.How is it that every project snowballs into a much larger one??

 

1. You need titanium retainers if the engine will spend most of its time above 6000 RPM. So, I'm guessing steel ones will do just fine.

2. You probably don't need lash caps. Those have nothing to do with setting lash. They're a little cap that goes on top of the valve stem, so the rocker doesn't land directly on the valve.

3. Check with AFR's specs, might be on their web site. 503 seals would be correct if the top of the guides are .530" OD. The other common size is .500"; Comp AFAIK doesn't offer a seal in that size, but Crane does.

4. There's no way to know for sure what length push rod you'll need, until after you assemble the whole valve train. Get yourself an adjustable push rod so you can make the correct determination. The push rod length will depend on what valves you use, and those will almost certainly need to be longer to accomodate the springs you'll need for that much lift.

5. And the question you didn't ask.... Yes, you NEED to change your valve springs to run a cam like that! Don't even think about leaving whatever AFR used.

That's probably a decent cam for the rest of your parts. I have one like that also, although I haven't run it iin anything yet. However, if I do run it, I'll probably use 1.6 rockers. I have a set of Comp 999 springs to go with all that. You probably don't need anything that extreme (for that matter, I don't either, I just have them), their 954 spring should be adequate.

The Manley valves are an excellent part.

 

just put a supercharger on it..... that'll wake her right up....






no, seriously..... its only a couple hund more then a complete roller setup, but it'll have more gain.... :lala:

 

To answer in order:
1.Good to hear/learn..it will be shifted around 6500 or so depending on chassis dyno testing once built..but will not spend most of its time up there.steel it is...plus it is half the price of the titaniums$$$

3.AFR specs on my invoice from when I bought them states:AFR S.B. Bronze Guides .502" O.D. part #9050: .530" x 11/32"

4.I have a pushrod checker from when I built the motor in its current form...just curious as I thought any style roller required shorter pushrods..always check the length before I buy them.Valvetrain geometry problems suck..lived and learn years back.Was more of a question in general..sorry I wasn't specific on that.

5.I should have stated that I intend to go with the Comp Cams recommended springs #977.

As far as a supercharger MrDude_1..I looked into that.A couple hundred cheaper than a roller setup?Roots maybe...but I would go ATI Procharged if I was going to huff it.Already had a bottle on it and sold it to fund other projects on the car..I myself prefer a NA car.But I thank you for your suggestion.