I'm starting to dislike it already.

It seems to have been a bad choice. I don't have enough money to buy a new now.

The car, however, it running was to rich. So rich, that if you stand out back, it makes your eyes hurt.

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1984 Trans Am Coupe
700-R4 Tranny
Mods:
K&N
Rebuilt carb
Rebuilt heads
3" Mandrel Exhaust
Hooker Headers
Lunati Cam
1" Lowering Springs
Clarion CD
Kicker Speakers
2 MTX 4000
Pearl White Paint

"Live It To The Last"

 

What you should try to do is advance the hell out of your timing, run it at like, 18 degrees, that should make it run a little leaner.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

 

What are the cam specs?

Did you degree it in?

You can try advancing the ignition timing some, but you'll soon reach a point of hard starting, pinging and/or detonation. Probably 4 degrees from stock is about as far as you'll be able to go.

There's some work involved, but you can also pull the timing chain cover and timing chain set and install an advance bushing.

Depending on how bad the cam REALLY is acting, you can install a 6 degree bushing in the advance position and this will make a world of difference in idle and throttle response.

Mr. Gasket sells the bushing kits for $10/$15 or so and all you'd need would be the correct size drill bit - which I believe is 13/32.

If you decide to advance the cam, first pull all the plugs and do a compression check to see where you are. Advancing the cam will increase the cranking cylinder pressure and if you're high already you might end up with a pinging/detonation situation. We don't want to trade one problem for another.

Another way to calm down the cam, if it's a flat tappet hydraulic, is by using a set of Crane Hi-Intensity lifters. These bleed off cam duration at idle and low engine speed and make the cam seem one or two sizes smaller than it actually at low engine speeds. You'd pick up about 2" Hg of vacuum using these lifters too.

TPIS recommends them for all their performance flat tappet hydraulics.

With these lifters, as rpms climb, the full cam duration returns, so you don't lose any top end power. I've used these and Rhodes lifters (similar principle) with great success. The Rhodes are noiser though. The Crane's give off a light clicking/tapping sound.

So, there are a few things you can do. The easiest and cheapest way is to advance the cam with a bushing. That way you won't have to pull the intake and all the other stuff above it and the cost would be $15 or so plus the cost of new timing cover, water pump gaskets and whatever coolant you can't salvage.

Let me know if I can help further.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9



[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited March 02, 2001).]

 

Thanks for the advice.

------------------
1984 Trans Am Coupe
700-R4 Tranny
Mods:
K&N
Rebuilt carb
Rebuilt heads
3" Mandrel Exhaust
Hooker Headers
Lunati Cam
1" Lowering Springs
Clarion CD
Kicker Speakers
2 MTX 4000
Pearl White Paint

"Live It To The Last"