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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 07:09 AM
  #1  
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From: Yonkers, NY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Convertible
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: WB performance auto
Starter bad?

Hi,
I have the weirdest problem. My car starts fine in the morning but after I drive it for about 20 min if I shut it off it will not start again. I usualy have to wait anywhere between 1 to 2 hours untill it cools down and then it starts right up. What it does when it's hot is that when turning the key all the lights on the dashboard come on fine but i hear no sound from the starter. I think that the starter somehow gets hot and it does not work again untill it cools down. Does anyone else have this problem? Do you think that by changing the starter it will fix the problem? Also how difficult is to change the starter? My car is an 87 iroc but i have a 92 engine in it 5.7 Thanks for the help!
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 07:38 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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i think you're right, you need another starter
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 07:42 AM
  #3  
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From: Yonkers, NY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Convertible
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: WB performance auto
Is changing the started easy? Could i do it myself?
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 07:59 AM
  #4  
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i'd say yes but depends on your skill level
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 08:19 AM
  #5  
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From: Yonkers, NY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Convertible
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: WB performance auto
Thanks, btw can you recomend a good heavy duty starter?
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 08:40 AM
  #6  
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Car: '89 Camaro RS
Engine: LB8 V6 MFI
Transmission: T-5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
I'd say that the solenoid is bad, not the starter...

Excessive heat ruins the starter solenoids, rendering them unoperable when hot... that's why a lot of V8 engines use a starter heat shield.

You could replace 'just the solenoid', however while you have the starter down... you might as well replace both at once.

You're looking at probably $50(with tax) for a new/reman starter w/ lifetime warranty from one of the larger automotive stores in your area.

It's not that hard to change a starter; it's one of the easier 'regular tasks' that a shade-tree mechanic will encounter.

Make sure to get good jack stands up under the car at ALL times when the car is in the air. Don't simply rely on a floor jack or worse yet, bottle jack or bumper jack.

Assemble tools for the job: 3/8" drive ratchet, 3/8" long-extension, 9/16"(15mm) deep-well socket, 5/8" closed-end wrench, 5/16" closed-end wrench, assorted sockets/hand tools.

Don't forget to unhook (-)negative battery terminal BEFORE messing w/ starter, or spark show may ensue.

Hope any of this helps.
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 09:08 AM
  #7  
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From: Yonkers, NY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Convertible
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: WB performance auto
The solenoid is a separate piece? Also in case i do not have the heat shield should i get one? If i don't get it will the new starter go bad quick?
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 09:20 AM
  #8  
ede's Avatar
ede
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i'd look at the lt1 mini starter from gmpp
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 09:38 AM
  #9  
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: Can you say stroke?!?!
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I'd also recommend getting a remote solinoid so you don't have to worry about the hot start problem again.
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 10:00 AM
  #10  
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Car: '89 Camaro RS
Engine: LB8 V6 MFI
Transmission: T-5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
Gm starter solenoid & heat shield...

Originally posted by Athila
The solenoid is a separate piece? Also in case i do not have the heat shield should i get one? If i don't get it will the new starter go bad quick?
Yes and no... the solenoid (about the size of a small can of mushrooms) is a separate unit (and can be bought separately), but it is a part of the GM starter assembly.

A heat-shield shrouds the starter from the hot exhaust pipe, as the starter is close to it and exposed to a bunch of heat on a regular basis.

Heat shields aren't that expensive and definitely couldn't hurt, that's for sure.
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 10:39 AM
  #11  
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From: Yonkers, NY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Convertible
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: WB performance auto
i'd look at the lt1 mini starter from gmpp
Would you know what the website is to look at this?
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 10:50 AM
  #12  
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
You can use a LT1 starter that you can purchase from advance auto parts, napa, autozone ect.

It is so much smaller and much lighter. Much easier to take out if you have headers and such.
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 11:38 AM
  #13  
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Car: '89 Camaro RS
Engine: LB8 V6 MFI
Transmission: T-5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
GM Performance Parts website...

Originally posted by Athila
Would you know what the website is to look at this?
http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmgoodwr...ion=pp#9000852
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 11:45 AM
  #14  
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From: Yonkers, NY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Convertible
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: WB performance auto
Is this the one that will work with the 92 350 5.7 L engine that I have : 9000852 Starter, Light Weight ?
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 02:35 AM
  #15  
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pretty much any smallblock chevy starter will work on a smallblock chevy motor... heatshielding is a great idea, my stock starter did that... i bought the big starter from carquest and it works perfectly, but i still have stock exhaust... the solenoid on gm starters can be sold seperately, but has to be on the starter assembly.. its not seperate like the other popular american car makers is.. ( my mom told me never to say four letter words that start with "F") haha
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 02:41 AM
  #16  
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From: Fallbrook, CA
and another answer, ist not very hard at all to remove the starter... two bolts, and 5 wires.. one negative, four positive, remember what goes where, and youre in good shape.. only difficult part of swap is getting the starter around the exhaust/crossmember, or of you drop a socket behind the solenoid... its fun getting those back ;-)
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 02:41 AM
  #17  
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Yes and no about compatability. Flexplates come in either 153 or 168 tooth versions. Im guessing your engine is the 1pc rear seal. In that case, i think you have the 168. If you do, then you should be ok.

Easiest way to tell what diameter flexplate...run a tape measure over the diameter of it.

14" = 168 tooth
12.75 = 153 tooth

EDIT: Its late...like 4:00 AM...i think o got the flex sizes backwards.

Last edited by Stekman; Apr 15, 2004 at 02:50 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 02:45 AM
  #18  
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From: Fallbrook, CA
oh yeah, sry, forgot about that... DOH, dumb@$$ stamp on my forehead, the lt1 starter will be for the 1pc seal though, so if your engine isnt an 87-up, then you will not be able to use the lt1 starter
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 06:27 AM
  #19  
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From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
I went through this in my. Replaced the starter and never had this annoying problem again.
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