I ahve 1992 camaro rs with lo3 v-8 305 TBI and was wondering were my egr was because im getting awful gas mileage and I have done a full tune up (cao, rotor, plugs, wires, o2 sensor, timing, open element, exhaust)

I ONLY GET 11 MPG!! I need help PLEASE!!! HOW MUCH WOULD A NEW EGR COST??

 

The EGR valve is on top of the intake manifold, toward the rear and behind the throttle body. The eGR solenoid is nearby.

Have you cleaned the throttle body and IAC air passages? Checked/set the TPS voltage? Checked the cat converter for blockage? Checked brake adjustment? Maintained tire pressure and wheel alignment? Advanced the timing as much as you can without detonation? Have you also checked the vacuum hoses and power brake booster for leakage? Inspected/cleaned the PCV valve?

 

znut,

Do you have the ability to down load data from your computer to a laptop. That may be the best way to tell you where your problem is.

 

But to answer your question, a new EGR valve should be in the $15 - $25 dollar range. I bought one for my T/A a few months ago and I think it was in that range.

 

Ok i took that round looking thing of today (i think its the egr) and clened and wd40 it and out a new gasket on but it still idles rough and I get code 32 after driving on the highway and I get real bad gas mileage. THe motor idles real bad but ounce i get moving its as smooth as it ever was. Whats that other thing hooked up to the egr with the two vacumn lines going to it?? Could that be my problem??

 

should have a vaccum line attached to the egr, one for the egr and one to the TB going into a spliter that goes to the solenoid. Cleaning an egr is a waste of time, i tryed that on my V6 and on my V8 and it doesnt work. the valve either works or it doesnt the best way i was told to check and see if it works is to leave the car idleing and pull the diaphram on the underside up if the engine starts choking its working.

as far as the price goes i looked at http://www.partsamerica.com and http://www1.autozone.com. pricing starts at 48.99-67.99 depending on where you go. I went to pepboys and i asked for an egr valve the price they gave me was 74.99

 

I did that idlding thing someone was talking about and the car started choking so I take that the egr is good. What about the solinoid where the vacumn lines go. I just whent and checked the codes again now i have the 32 which was there before and a 23. Any moer suggestions guys. I have really rough idle and I really feel it when in drive.

 

Does anyone else have any more ideas????

 

Reconnect your IAT sensor (Code 23) then clear the codes. Try again.

 

Alright I want to thank you guys for all your ideas but so far my car has decided to **** me off. I am always taking clients in my car and its embarrasing when the car shakes them (but kinda of funny) countinuesly. But i want it to stop. I put a maf sensor I had lying around and it also did not help. I reset the computer and now i have no codes but its still runing like crap. ANy more ideas?? THANKS TO ALL WHO HAVE CONTRIBUTED THEIR $.02!

 

Your EGR may be hung wide open. Did you do the vacuum test to see if it opens and closes. Did you clean off the old gasket material so that you do not have a vacuum leak now?

 

Yep yep . I ahve been on the boards all day waiting to get ideas and looking at mycar. Its really pissing me off. I clened everything valve isnt open when car is on and it almost dies when i open it manually. HELP!!!!!!!!!!

 

Yep yep . I ahve been on the boards all day waiting to get ideas and looking at mycar. Its really pissing me off. I clened everything valve isnt open when car is on and it almost dies when i open it manually. HELP!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ok i just changed my temp control sensor and nothing and also my fuel filter and nothing. AHHHHH im getting so aggrivated!!! Now the computer is not giving me any codes but 12 which is normal WTF!! Ok CALM DOWN! Anything else. I hope I don't have to make too many more trips to Autozone(the people there are idiots....took forever to find the sensor the guy told me didn't exist)(Dont want to offend anyone that works there but the ones here in Miami suck). Please keep the ideas coming. My wallet is getting kinda slim with this car! HAHA

 

UPDATE.........today while driving the car still sputters and surges but when im stopped at the light it will keep surging back and fourth but then for about two seconds it will stop and run good then it starts again. I press on the gas and I can feel it shake. Feels like a miss but all ignition system is new.??? Maybe this will help someone think of something else.

Thanks,
IrocZnut

 

Did you check your timing. Bad timing can cause an idel surge like you described. Also when you replaced your ingintion stuff did you replace the wiress. You could have twisted the distributor a bit.

 

NOOOOOOOOOOO WAYYYYYYY! I was runing out of ideas and was really pissed off!! So i went to autozone and bought the air cleaner sensor and now it stopped sputtering. COULD IT BE??? Could that little thing be it???

 

If you are talking about the IAT then yes it can cause a rough idle if the little disk shaped prong thingy on the end becomes damaged.

 

F*** AHHHHH. I thought everything was all good but yesterday I was coming back from Bonzai (concert here in South Florida) and the service engone soon light came on again. I have code 32 (AGAIN). I already changed the solenoid checked all the vacumn and clened the valve. What should be my next step?

 

Did you change the valve itself? Sounds like that is the last remaining thing that is causing your problems.

 

I only cleaned didn't change it. But the car dies when i left up on the valve manually and it slides up perfect. Coyuld the valve still be bad??

 

A bad vavle should not cause the car to die. However, if you are still getting a code 32 than you may just want to replace it.

 

No its not making the car die. But im talking about the test when the car is idling I manually pushed the valve and it stutters like its going to die. I thought that meant the valve is good.

 

If the EGR valve pintle is not seating correctly, not sealing, or damaged, you can still have that internal vacuum leak. It may not be enough to stall the engine, but enough to cause poor idle, lean operation, etc.