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Need opinions on rotors and pads

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Old Mar 7, 2001 | 11:25 AM
  #1  
91-GasGuzlinZ-28's Avatar
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From: Lake Zurich, Illinois
Need opinions on rotors and pads

What kind of rotors and pads does everyone recommend? These will be for the front brakes, but I dont wanna spend too much. All advice will be appreciated.
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Old Mar 7, 2001 | 11:40 AM
  #2  
Biochem's Avatar
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From: This spot right here --->*
Car: 2002 SOM z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
If you are going to get new rotors, why not spend a little extra and get some good cross drilled ones? I have the Powerstop rotors and they are not too bad. I think they were $80ea from Summit.

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-
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Old Mar 7, 2001 | 07:57 PM
  #3  
GearHead1973's Avatar
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From: Central Valley N.Y. U.S.A
Stay away from the rotors made in China or Taiwan they are usually warped right out of the box.
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Old Mar 8, 2001 | 11:25 AM
  #4  
Skip Howard
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I've heard that cross drilled rotors crack between the holes and fail pretty quickly. Is this true??

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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.
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Old Mar 8, 2001 | 12:14 PM
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Mike89GTA's Avatar
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Yea and made during lunchtime at the local elementary school.
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Old Mar 8, 2001 | 08:52 PM
  #6  
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From: jeff NY usa
Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: W/C T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 BOLT 3.45 POSI
my crossed drilled rotors have a summer and a half on them and they still look new.

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.
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Old Mar 9, 2001 | 10:00 AM
  #7  
91-GasGuzlinZ-28's Avatar
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From: Lake Zurich, Illinois
Thanks for your help guys, what do you feel about slotted rotors or the combination of slotted and cross drilled?
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Old Mar 9, 2001 | 10:22 AM
  #8  
Joseph Andres's Avatar
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From: NJ, USA
Car: 1991 GTA Convertible
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
WHATEVER PADS YOU USE, USE THE ONES FROM THE GM DEALER!!!!!! I cannot stress this enough. I work in a auto repair shop and ALL aftermarket pads make noise with the exception of the the top Raybestos pads, they are not that bad as far as noise (squeaking)but they still squeak. But dealer pads, I guarantee you, will NOT MAKE ANY NOISE!!!! They are a little more expensive but worth the money and the silence.

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1988 GTA 5.7L TPI Auto
355 ci. block, SLP Cold Air Intake w/ K&N, fully modified MAF Sensor, TPIS 52mm Throttle Body w/Air Foil, Fully Ported and Polished Plenum, Nikel-plated Ported SLP Siamesed Runners, Ported TPIS Big Mouth Intake Manifold, stock heads w/ 1.52 Comp Cams Self-aligning Roller Rockers, TPIS ZZ-9 Roller Camshaft, TPIS Valve Springs, Cloyes True Double Roller Timing Chain, TPIS Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Balanced Bosch 22 lb/hr Fuel Injectors, MSD 6AL, Taylor 10mm Wires, Bosch Platinum +4 Spark Plugs, MSD Blaster Coil, March Underdrive Pulleys, 6 3/4" Vibratech Streetdamper, TPIS Level 4 PROM, 160 T-stat, Low Temp. Fan Switch, Stock Distributor w/ Bronze Gear, SLP 1 3/4" Headers, Random Technologies High Flow Cat., Adjustable Borla Cat Back Exhaust, Flow Tech Pre-Cat 3" Exhaust Cut Off, Level 10 PTS-3 700R4 Trans, B&M Holeshot 2400 Stall Converter, B&M Trans Cooler, TCI Aluminum Finned Trans Pan, Torque Converter Lock Up Switch, 3" Balanced Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.73 Richmond Gears, Auburn Pro-Series Differential, Aluminum Differential Cover w/ Main Cap Preloads, BF Goodrich Drag Radials 255/50 R16, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, Hotchkis Panhard Rod, Hotchkis Tie Rod Adjuster Sleeves, Bilstein Heavy Duty Shocks and Struts, 1LE Springs, Energy Suspension Polyeurethane Bushings, Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors, Global West Steering Box Brace, HP Motorsports 3 Point Strut Tower Brace

"Why ride a stang when birds can fly?"

http://www.geocities.com/thegta
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Old Mar 9, 2001 | 10:35 AM
  #9  
Tab92bird's Avatar
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From: Ft.Worth-Dallas, TX
The only problem with cross-drilled and slotted rotors is that they cannot be turned, meaning when you replace your pads, you'll probably need to replace the rotors as well.
As far as pads, I use the performance friction ones. They work much better than the regular raybestos pads I had on before, and create less brake dust. If you get them from autozone, you get a lifetime warranty, so when they wear out you can get a new set.

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White '92 Firebird w/ 305 TBI. Open element w/ non drop base, increased fuel pressure, TBI spacer, Hedman Hedders & y-pipe, no cat, cat-back exhaust
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