I did this some time ago, but I'm kinda concerned about it so I'd like to ask. If you replaced the valve stem seals one day, and then got up the next morning and adjusted the lash with the engine cold and having sat there for two days, will it cause a problem? The procedure I followed was bringing cyl. #1 to TDC by hand and adjusting #1I, #2I, #5I, #7I, #1E, #3E, #4E, #8E. Rotate engine 360* and adjust the rest. I brought them all to zero lash and roughly 3/4 turn past it, and put it all back together before I started it.

Was this OK for me to do on an engine that had sat for 30 hours and allowed all the oil to drain back? Just curious. Thanks guys.

 

You should be ok. When I put an engine together, I just pump the lifters up by hand (In a can of oil) then set the lash. Pretty much the same situation. I've never had a problem. I've also been in the same situation when having heads milled, and used the same deal.

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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 200,000 original miles!
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350 (ZZ430)
using primarily GMPP parts.
Short block sitting on a stand.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

ASE Certified Master Tech

 

Jethro,

If your lifters are leaky, you have the potential to set the lash a little tight. If the lifters had no push rods and valve spring loads, they shouldn't have leaked down though. If you are concerned, you can remove the covers and performa a hot lash adjustment to be sure. Even though it's a bit messy without the oil deflector clips, I feel more secure doing it that way. That's just my preference, and it doesn't have to be done that way to be correct. I just don't trust myself.

Tt's easy to set correctly by the cold method. Every engine was assembled that way from the factory, and they run forever without a tear-down.

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Thanks guys. I figured it was OK, and it didn't run any different afterwards although I think one rocker on the passenger's side is a little loose since I hear it clicking some. I remember one or two on the passenger side being particularly loud right after I started it when I did the job, but it got quieter after the engine warmed all the way up and has been quieter ever since. I just wanted to make sure letting it sit overnight and the method I used didn't have any implications for the hydraulic lifters. When I get the chance, I'll probably pull the valve covers and adjust the hot lash just to be on the safe side and have everything in optimum condition. Will it blow oil all over the place or just a little at idle? Thanks fellas.

 

It will splash a little around and leave some small puddles under the car by the time you are done. One way around this is to make some cardboard pieces to prevent the splashing, which is what I do. I think ede said he cut open some old covers, which will work too. At idle its the oil coming off the end of the rocker and the spring that make a mess. When you first start it, there will be some coming from the pushrods but once the idle drops its just going to be from the end of the rocker and the spring.

 

Good, I hate to lose too much of that Mobil 1! Thanks for the help, fellas, I feel better now.

 

You should be in good shape. My lifters sat for a long time before I re-installed them and it runs great. I went 3/4 of a turn past zero lash and it ran great!

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!