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stripped bolt

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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 11:43 PM
  #1  
89redbird's Avatar
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From: Detroit
stripped bolt

Ok i hav e a stripped bolt for my altenator it is on an 89 305 TPI and it is a 45 TQ head and it is really tight and really stripped. What can i do that is with in an average mechanincs disposale. No drilling out and i don't have a welder basic hand tools
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 12:04 AM
  #2  
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Car: 87 SC
Engine: 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: T5
Pipe wrench?

Sometimes a little better than vice grips for something really stripped, they don't always hold but a pipe wrench is made for pulling on round things.. or you could try drilling it out if you have a bit for that.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 06:49 AM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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might want to try some heat on the threads, soak it with some r134, pb blaster and let it sit a day or so. take it somewhere to get a nut welded on and wrench it off.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 09:14 AM
  #4  
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From: Nashville TN
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
Mine stripped when I first got the car. I had to drill it out. I can't stand the torx bit stuff anyways, so I just replaced all I could w/ grade 5s from the hardware store.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 09:58 AM
  #5  
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Get a rotary tool, like a Dremel, with small cutting discs or something on it. Use that to grind down opposite sides of the bolt head flat so it looks like this --> []

Then you can easily grab it with a crescent wrench or vise grips to twist it. Use some kind of penetrating oil before you start twisting though, like the others suggested.

Good luck!
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Old May 1, 2004 | 09:56 AM
  #6  
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As much as we all admire Mac, SnapOn, Easco, Armstrong, Matco, Wright, Craftsman, and all the other brands of common tools, take out your pliers drawers, dump them in the scrap bin, and fill them with ChanNelLock tools. Try a pair of 410 pliers. If you can fit the jaws on the part, it will turn it (or break it off more). They just plain don't slip. Vise-Grips are good as welding clamps, but don't hold a candle to these pliers. They're better than a pipe wrench.
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Old May 1, 2004 | 11:43 AM
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well i just took a pair of channel locks and gave her hell. came off. went to 10+ parts stores for a replacment (anythign that would of worked) no one had one so GM has one ordered for me it'll be here wed. till then i just put the old one back in which is stupid but i need the car so owell i got it off once i'll get it off again
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Old May 1, 2004 | 12:30 PM
  #8  
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You've just discovered one of the reasons I shamelessly plug anti-seize compound for almost all fasteners, assemlies, and parts not requiring a thread sealant. (According to my wife's accusations, I apparently think it's pretty good on buckwheat pancakes, too...)
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Old May 1, 2004 | 03:43 PM
  #9  
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Car: 87 SC
Engine: 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by 89redbird
well i just took a pair of channel locks and gave her hell. came off. went to 10+ parts stores for a replacment (anythign that would of worked) no one had one so GM has one ordered for me it'll be here wed. till then i just put the old one back in which is stupid but i need the car so owell i got it off once i'll get it off again
If it's stripped, why put it back?

You can put just about any bolt in there. Even if it's the wrong thread... fun aluminum alternators.

If it's a real big problem, you can drill out the hole and use a plain old nut and bolt on there.
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Old May 1, 2004 | 04:57 PM
  #10  
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From: E.B.F. TN
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Originally posted by Vader
You've just discovered one of the reasons I shamelessly plug anti-seize compound for almost all fasteners, assemlies, and parts not requiring a thread sealant. (According to my wife's accusations, I apparently think it's pretty good on buckwheat pancakes, too...)
Whatchumean your wife??? I not only accuse you of it all the time (regular pancakes), but I have PROOF!!


Originally posted by Vader
...Permatex offers anti-seize compumds in a few formulations...I've also never had a problem removing exhaust bolts after having used the standard Permatex multi-metal coumpound, part no. 133. ...Incidentally, the Permatex "standard" #133 is rated for use from -65°F to 2,000°F. Your aluminum heads will start to melt at 1,180°F, so what will last longer? It works very well on suspension and brake parts, and for coating the backs of alloy wheels fo prevent fusing to the iron hubs and rotors...

Oh, yeah - it's good on pancakes, too...

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
(^this has been shamelessly quoted using the current libral media standards from just ONE post

Sumbiatch!

Anyway, he's not the only one that uses the stuff on everything (including a tiny dab on the lugs). There are a few of us over here on that bandwagon.
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