Note: Please oh please do not tell me to get a 350, i dont want one and cant get one. Thank you.

Ok, so i'm tearing down my motor, I'm going to have it cleaned and machiened, I would like to get some recommendations for a few things (and aprox pricing if possible).

Cam Shaft
Heads
Pistons
Carb/Manifold
(Cant afford EFI right now, but plan to go TPI later, or a supercharger)

I'm looking to get some nice performance, this will be a street car that gets me to work and home (as fast as possible). It wont be a racetrack car but will race around with the little imports. Was thinking of high compression (until i get a super charger). Thanks for any help.

 

Take your 305 bore it .030" over if needed. Turn the crank .010" or .020" under if needed. Grab some casting number 14022601 heads off of a 1982-1984 chevy van with a 305-4 bbl. Their 55cc chambers will help compression, and with their 1.84" and 1.50" valves and 350 port size they flow decent. Do a gasket match on them and maybe some bowl porting. I would use cheap rebuilder pistons meant for the L69 305. They are flattops with 4 valve reliefs. I built my motor for a 1983 G20 van (with tall gears and OD) so I had to keep the cam pretty mild. I choose a federal mogul CS 1014R camshaft that specs @ (204* & 214* @ .050", .423" and .446" lift on a 112* Lobe Seperation) I used new federal mogul lifters. Call precision engine parts in Las Vegas if you want some stainless race valves for the heads. I got some that were stainless, undercut, swirl polished, etc. I also use chromemoly retainers and valve locks. I also ordered a set of Z/28 valve springs that are good to .510" lift. I took the heads to a local rebuilder and had them redone. For $140.00 they did a 3 angle valve job, angle milled the heads, hot tanked (or whatever they do now), replaced the guides, and installed my hardware. Then they put a protective coating on the outside. The heads were better than new. I am currently running the stock cast iorn exhaust manifolds and the stock cast iorn intake manifold. I have an Edelbrock Performer RPM Squarebore intake to stick on it soon. I ended up using an edelbrock performer series 600 cfm carb. Part number 1405 if you are curious. I got the intake and carb off ebay cheap. $100.00 for the carb to my door and $45.00 for the intake shipped to my door. I ended up recurving the stock HEI distributer. With the factory quadrajet and distributer it made the same horsepower numbers but the edelbrock and recurved distributer give it much better throttle response and mid-range torque as well as better mileage. This combo is mild enough to run the factory computer. I get 20 in/hg of vacuum @ 650 rpm. The engine has the same torque as the factory engine from idle-2,000. The midrange is stronger than from the factory. This combo really turns on in the high end though. Pulling the van with its 3.42:1 gears and 700r4 in OD I get 13 in/hg of vacuum @ a steady 70 mph. Mileage is just below 20 on the highway. In town I typically get 13 or 14. I was doing some tuning and also run mid 15s @ 88 or so mph in the 1/4 in the 4,400 lbs van. .

Do you have to pass smog? If so you need to keep the computer distributer and carb. You also need to have an EGR valve provision on the intake you choose. All smog stuff will need to be retained

 

Alright first we need to know a few things:
1. whats your budget 2. is this a roller block 3. do you need to pass emissions.
Heres a combo I am just going to throw out there with out know the things mentioned above: have the engine bored .30 over(migh aswell since its getting torn down anyway), get a set of aluminum vette l98 heads ( i see them on ebay alot) get a 3 angle valve job and have them upgrade to handle .510 lift ( also have them milled to whatever you want to increase compression)Next get and Lt1 cam if your block is roller if not I would go with the comp cams XE262 cam, get some roller rockers, performer RPM intake, edelbrock 600 carb, headers and 3 inch exhaust, and then setup the rest of your drivetrain to match(get some decent gears, build your sespension, etc.) Good Luck.

 

wow, thanks for the responses. My budget at this moment is kinda weak, so i'm going to get the stock heads cleaned (hot tankeD) and rebuilt, no one around here can do a port job (th eonly guy will need them for 6 months!!!) But my budget will be a bit better in the next mont or 2.

I dont know if it's a roller block, it's an 85 305. I plan on going with an edelbrock performer 1406 and I will be getting an MSD 6AL ignition box to run with my MSD coil. I will need a new distributor.

What computer are you talking about? I didnt get it from the donor car cause i didnt think it had one, being a carbed vehicle.

I dont need to pass emissions (I live in CA, but it's registered in AZ )

I have 3.42 gears and I will be running a 700R4.

 

Port and polish them yourself. It is NOT hard. Follow the link at the end of my sig.

 

This is the major problem with the 305. You wont find budget parts that work with one system or another. If you went with a SC latter on but built the engine in the here and now for higher compression your screwed for running a reasonable amount of boost at a latter point since all 305 heads have small chambers.
If your set on upgrading to an SC you need to decide now because its a pain in the butt to tear the engine apart latter on to change the pistons to reduce compression.
If it were me, Id leave the 416's on, Z28 springs ($35) drop a few extra bucks for flat top pistons, slide in a Baja Beast cam, stealth intake and a holley 600-670 or just leave the q-jet on with an RPM SB intake. After thats done drop a 3.42 axle in and whip ***.

 

You can always switch heads to a larger chamber when you supercharge. If you switch to a large enough chamber, that might drop compression enough to SC it.

Then again, if you, in the process of the 'budget' rebuild are using either cast or hypereutectic pistons, id switch them anyway before SC.

 

Ina ll reality, the plasn I have, a supercharger just isnt in the near future, with new interior, seats, suspension parts, etc, I prob wont have a SC for at least a year or more, at which point I wont mind changing parts around. I bought a 97 honda just for this reason (well, that and the kid ).

Thanks for the help and advice. I'm reading the portting thread now.

 

Can we assume your car is an '88 RS with 305 TBI?

If so, the heads aren't worth rebuilding, let alone porting.

601, 416, or 081 are the only ones you should consider.

 

My car is an 88 V6 2.8L, but i ripped out the motor along with everyhting else and I got a 305 from an 85 z28, it came with a quadrajet 1905, not a TBI.

So, i'm putting an 85 z28 305 motor into my 88, thats why I have the 10 bolt rear end with 3.42's :d

 

I bet you've got that quote in a text file on your desktop, so you can cut and paste it here

 

You can get a 350 builder shortblock for 100 bucks. I sold my roller cam 2 bolt, still a good runner with no cylinder ridge and visible crosshatch for $150.

If you can't afford that, why bother?

There is a reason why every time 305 performance engine building comes up, 350 is mentioned. There is no good reason to build a 305, unless you have a big purple stiffy for being "different". Wait, thats not a good reason either.

 

You got "owned" by owned. lol

 

Maybe he is going with the idea that anyone can make a 350 run 13's but it is more impressive to see a 305 run 13's.

 

I bet if I had a 454 SB, you would still tell me to get a 350, you guys have a one track mind and it doesnt help anyone.

I dont expect my 305 to run 13's, i expect it to be a nice driver with some umph to it.

Thanks to everyone who gave me constructive help, it HAS helped a lot.

 

You've got the "good" 305 heads. 305 rebuild parts aren't that expensive. Ported heads, good exhaust, good cam, matching torque converter, you'll have a nice running street car.

You could even have an emissions-legal one, but...

 

I would recomend the cam that FAST305 used, I have that one in my 305 as well. I just cleaned up the bore, re-ringed it, had the crank polished and replaced the bearings. changed the cam to the one above, did a valve job on it, new valve springs, new (hi-volume) oil pump. bead blasted the stock intake, changed the Q-jet to an earlier non-computer model and an early HEI that has been recurved. New water pump, new clutch a T5 and a 4.11 posi rounded it out. It was a 305HO so it had most of the good parts on it to begin with (good for a 305 anyway). I've been pretty happy with it. I don't think I have $400.00 in the whole deal. Oh, yeah I did cut the heads and used a smaller head gasket to get 10:1 CR.

 

sweet. the whoel deal for rebuild kit, crank work, block work and rebuilding the heads will be about $400 for me thanks to my work.

 

Mine was also a 305 HO (original 1983 G20 Van engine). 305s can run good as long as you have the combination right. A 305 is not a high rpm motor, it makes good low and mid range torque. Don't screw this up by sticking a huge cam in it. The heads won't breath well enough and the combo will feel like a sick engine. It is hard to make the small bore 305 run at 6,000+ rpm. It will run 5,000-5,500 fine. Use a cam that makes peak torque @ 2,500-3,000 rpm, peak horsepower @ 5,000 rpm, shift it @ 10% higher than that (5,500) and you have it made. I've got about $500.00 into mine and that includes the carb, intake(Peformer RPM squarebore in the garage to be installed soon), exhaust, cam, lifters, and rebuilding the heads (Stainless valves, Chromemoly retainers & locks, Z/28 springs). The shortblock has almost 200,000 miles and still had a crosshatch. The block is a 305 4-bolt main with forged crank and rods. When it dies I am dropping in flattop hypereutetic pistons in place of the L69 style cast ones. Northern auto parts sells kits for the 305 on sale occassionally. I've seen them for under $200.00 from time to time.

 

Fast 305:

Please read all your posts, and tell me 2 things:

1. How all of that spank-off about your cross-hatch and whatnot is going to be of any value to somebody with a TBI motor that's not yours?

2. Which block casting have you got? Go to http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm and tell me which 83 305 block casting equipped with 4-bolt main that you have, out of all of the 4-bolt main 305 blocks that are listed.

 

My point is that most 305s have hard cylinder walls and often times only need to be reringed not even bored just a clean up hone to deglaze. Some like mine haven't been touched in 200,000 miles and the ring seal is still good. 8% leakdown in the worst cylinder. My point was that if the inside of his engine looked similar and was still in good shape why bother with the machining. Just toss a re-ring kit (comes with bearings) in it and build the top end. I don't have his block so I couldn't tell him exactly what to do. Just coming up with ways to save money he might not have to spend. If you bore a block that is still in good shape you are throwing money away and taking away useable life from your engine.

Casting number 14010979 it came in the van and was the original engine. It has a 3.735" bore (its a 305) and has 4 bolt mains. Therefore it is a 305-4 bolt main.

 

Your point is wrong.

The 305 bore material is no different from any other, as far as wear resistance and the like. It is not specially durable compared to the better sizes of SBCs.

You got lucky. Most people don't. We've all seen your posts about that motor, over and over and over; we all know exactly what a terrific motor the 305 is; it's time to give it a rest, and quit telling us how lucky you got with the vehicle you bought, and instead concentrate on helping people out instead of endlessly abusing yourself over your luck. Your particular experience in your particular case is of little or no value to anyone else.

You're quite right about boring a block that doesn't need it though, that is wasteful.

While you're at it, you might want to let Mortec in on your casting number, so they can include it in their otherwise fairly comprehensive list of numbers that exist.

 

Thanks, now i know im not the only one that feels that way.

 

After approximately 1970 Chevy changed the composition of it's blocks and they went to a "harder" iron.
A lot of these guys who post here as the Almighty SBC experts remind me of the new kid out of college. He read about it, so he thinks he knows how to do it, without any experience or understanding of the history, or the dynamics of the particular situation, and of course, only their opinion counts.

 

LOL. Maybe if you aimed a little higher in the engine heirarchy, you could get a 13 second engine out of your "performance build".

 

Hurry...

http://www.chevytalk.com/cgi-local/c...uery=retrieval

 

Here's why everyone who has been there and done that will tell you to get a 350. Not saying you should, of course; just to hip you up to the realities of the situation.

The 305 is a perfectly good motor, on its own, in a vacuum. If that was all we had to work with, you'd see alot of stuff on how to build them up. But we're not in a vacuum; there's this other motor, widely available everywhere, dirt cheap, probably the single highest number of them ever made of any motor in history. You can pick them up CHEAP. I've thrown piles of them away just because they were accumulating and getting in my way, and nobody would even come haul them off.

A cam & lifter, a set of heads, a carb & intake, pistons, rings & bearings, and machine work to refresh all of this, is going to set you back a good solid $2000. Doesn't really matter what motor you do this to, that's what it'll cost. Now people will chime in all over the place about "I can get this kit from Summit for $299" and the like, and that's all very true; I'm assuming that you get the best price on stuff, exactly like that. The cheapest of everything, the best of nothing.

When you're all done, you'll have you a nice new 305, that maybe puts out a respectable amount of power. You're happy. So far so good.

Now..... you get spanked by your little brother's $1200 Mustang. You decide you want more power. We have a little equation that we use to express what happens next.

HP = $$$$

The rule of thumb is, $20/HP. If you can pick up HP for $20 apiece, you're doing OK. Much cheaper than that, it's a deal; much more than that, you should look elsewhere if possible, to find the cheap ones that are still hiding in your combo.

Now, rewind to when you built your motor.

Your 305 runs pretty good, right? Let's say 1 HP per cu in? That's 305 HP, which is better than most people manage.

If you had spent your money on a 350 instead, and got exactly the same 1 HP per cu in out of it (which is actually easier to do with a 350 than a 305), you'd have about 350 HP right now, instead of 305; and a correspondingly higher amount of torque too. That's 45 more HP. Applying our rule of thumb, that works out to about $900 of value.

But how much would it have cost you at the time of the rebuild? A 350 core is $150, and everything else cost the same; rebuild kit, heads, cam, and so forth, all the same. Might even have been the same parts by part number, all but the pistons and rings anyway. That means those extra 45 HP you failed to get then, would have cost you about $3 apiece at that time. At that time, remember. $3 per HP is not just a good price, it's a steal; and you left them on the table when you walked away.

So how much are those 45 HP going to cost you now? You take your block, and all its machine work, and throw it away; you throw away your nice new pistons, and the rings and bearings; and who knows how much time and misc soft parts like paint and fluids and so forth. To get them, you now have to spend the $150, plus the rebuild kit, plus machine work, plus all that other stuff.

Was the 305 a good idea? You make up your mind.

I'm not going to tell you to get a 350, I'm just filling you in on why people will tell you that. You have to make up your own mind whether you yourself are getting your money's worth.

 

:werd:

 

If you already have a good 305 my point is build it.

 

RB83L69,
Thanks, great way to explain your position. and I would agree with you, you're only going to get so much power out of the 305. Right now, 350 parts are cheap (it was like that with 327's in the 70's). Starting from scratch I would probably build a 350. But.... he really wants to build a 305 and that's what he's got, so he needs to make the best of it.
by the way, here's an example.
http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com...Assemblies.htm

 

If you have a 305 that needs boring and pistons and crank work, then you don't have a good 305; you have a core. You're in exactly the same situation as above. $150, more or less, is all that stands between you and 45 more CID.

If you have a 305 with a good bottom end, then of course it makes good sense to use it.

The good sense becomes questionable when money has to be spent on the short block. Basically, that's the dividing line between good sense and maximum power per $$$$, and irrevocably pouring money down a disappointment.

 

Bingo. If you give one rat**** about performance, don't build a 305.

I've got no problems with guys modding the 305 already sitting in their engine bay, hell, run what ya got. You make it go fast, all the better.

But the moment you have it out, it doesn't need to ever go back in. A 305 that needs machine work is best used as a boat anchor or scrap metal.

Doing otherwise crosses into the realm of turd polishing.

 

88_Import_Slaye,
Here are a couple of good head options not mentioned yet. Either one would be great for a 305 buildup and be transfered to a 350 if you ever desire.

The first is the Topline Vortec replacements. The reason I would choose the Topline Vortec over the GM Vortec is for the thick deck. These heads can be milled to a 58cc chamber safely, in fact they advertise the capability for a 50cc chamber. These would be a great addition whether you decide to go supercharger or not.

The next option is discontinued but I was able to find a set with some patience off of eBay. That is the AFR 190 SHST which is a head designed to be the Corvette aluminum L98 replacement. The valves are small enough to fit a 305 bore. The chambers are 58cc. With a 190cc intake volume, I would guess these would be better with the supercharger than without.

 

RB83L69:

Thanks for sharing that with me. I have yet so see any reason why I should go to a 350 (besides the obvious) but your description has helped.

Still, my situation is this: I got the motor for free, it has been looked over by someone who knows what they are talking about and all the work that will need to be done (including head rebuilding) will cost me about $400. If I get a 350 block, I will have to buy pistons and a crank, etc etc. That will run my bill way up and ATM i dont have a budget to do so. I dont mind running this 305 for a while then swapping to a new motor later when I have real cash to drop on it.

I played with Dyno 2003 software for a while and found some decent numbers after a little tweaking of the heads (porting) and a nice cam. I was happy with these numbers, even if I dont get them, i like taking the road that's less traveled. I'm just looking for help.

Again, I thank everyone for their help and I appreciate every word of it since i'm a noob. I develop software for a living, my Camaro is my hobby, so putting work into a new swap in a year or so wont bother me.

 

I thought you said you already had to buy pistons for the 305; in which case, you could just as easily buy them for a 350, for the same or less money.

Listen closely: if you have to touch the short block of a 305, DONT DO IT!!!! To get from a block and a crank laying on the ground to a complete motor, you'll spend $2000 by the time you're done, no matter if you got the core for completely free. A 350 core is $50-$150 with crank and rods (you'd buy pistons no matter which size motor they're for, it appears), plus the same $2000 to make it into a motor.

The long and short of it is, from where you are now to where you will be when you're through, you could buy a 305 for $2000, or a 350 for $2150. Which makes more sense?

Now if you have a completely running and usable 305 short block, and you don't have to buy pistons or machine work for it, that's a different matter. At that point, you actually have something of value that it would be wise to use. But if you have to buy pistons and machine work, put that big wad of money into the bigger motor UP FRONT, and don't short-change yourself over a $150 core, and in essence throw away whatever you spend on the short block. Because I can just about 100% guarantee you, that's what will happen. There's little solace in knowing that Desktop Dyno gave you big numbers, while all the little r¡ce boxes are driving around you.

But as far as how to build the motor, there's little difference between them. The main difference would lie in the choice of heads and other induction components, since a 305 wants smaller stuff than a 350 (which is what makes it harder to get the same HP per cu in). But alot of stuff you can get to be on the largeish side for a 305, and still be OK for a 350 when the disappointment sets in.

 

I thought I would have to buy pistons, but I didnt after all. I'm not sure if the block has to be worked, I'm waiting to take it in. If it does then I will get a 350, how's that?

But right now, the 305 is what i'm looking at.

 

When you take it in for clean-up and inspection, make sure that if you decide not to use it, that they'll credit you what you spend on check-out or whatever against your actual service bill. I would strongly advise against taking it apart until after you've made the determination. Just haul the whole short block down there as an assembly.

It's pretty easy to tell whether a blcok needs bored (which is of course what triggers the machine work expense and piston purchase and all that). Typically, if there's more than about .003" of wear at the top of the bore where the rings ride in it, it will need all of that. That would be a good point to stop and evaluate your options.

You may even find that your local machine shop will sell you a completely built short block for less than you can buy the parts and prep your own for.

 

Hi 88-import slayer
I feel your pain with this motor thing. I am doing the same thing you are. I have the L69 motor and i am rebuilding the motor. I have pondered on this subject for a year now and i have decided to go with what is easier rather than practical. I have a good motor that i could prolly get away with reringing and have a nice day. I not goignt to do that though. I have decided since i have the motor apart i am going to have it bord.30 over and rebuild it. It is prolly going to cost more this way but hell its simpler to do it this way. U have to way the emmions and computer and everyting else to convert to 350. I had the over welmed feeling when i started but feel better since i decided to stick with the 305. so happy motoring adn let us know what u do in the end.

 

Well, i'm getting my block bored 0.30 over as well and putting in new rings. everyhtign will be new except the pistons, the crank will be turned 0.10 and all that good stuff. The block is good after all.

Also, i found a good combo for parts

Carb: Edelbrock 1406 $265
Manifold: Edelbrock 2101 $115
Cam: Edelbrock 2103 $140 (214/214 lift)

Anyway, i'm going from a V6, so everyhting i need will ahve to be new so going to a 350 on my part wouldnt have been any harder (if i already HAD the 350 block.) I'm not worried about emmisions at all since bullehad city has NO laws on smog (yet).

 

If you're getting the block bored, you'll have to have new pistons.

If your block needs to be bored, that means it's not good enough to re-use in its current condition. You'll have to have new pistons. You can't use pistons in a block that's got holes .030" bigger than the pistons, when the hole in the block is supposed to be about .002" bigger than the piston.

At the point of requiring the block to be bored, you have crossed over from getting your money's worth out of a good 305, to merely having a useless 305 core; and for $150 or so, you can have an equally useless 350 core to spend your money on instead. You have reached the fork in the road where spending money on a 305 just because you already have a "free" or "paid for" core has ceased to be wise.

You are now about $2000 away from having a running, driving engine again. Don't shoot yourself in the shorts by spending $2000 on a 305, when for $2150, you could have 20% more engine. $150, 20%. Think real carefully about it, before it's too late.

You can get that same generic cam from Summit for alot less money. No point in paying extra just because it says Edlebrock.

Don't forget, you'll need a distributor too. If you de-computerize your carb like that, you'll need to de-computerize the dist as well. It's all or nothing. Personally I wouldn't waste money on the intake or the carb & dist; they're no better than the stock stuff, if the stock parts work right. That's about $500 worth of stuff you don't really need. So now instead of $2000 (or $2150) to get your engine back running, it will be $2500 (or $2650).

 

Ok, the part about going over 0.30 was recommended to me, he said the block is ok to run as is, he said you can put in new rings and own tneed new pistons.

The prices i lsited for the cam and all were from SUMMIT.

Also, this motor is gonna cost me about $1000 (give or take $100). All the work i need I'm getting for $400 (heads rebuilt and cleaned, block rebuilt with new everyhting, and the machiene work). The rest of th emoney is gonna be for other parts of the car like the damn gas tank i cant get back in, new front end bushings, etc.

Anyway, I'm happy where i'm at so far.

 

You're paying too much for the Edelbrock cam.

It's a generic grind, available from dozens of generic grinders, ALOT cheaper than from Edelbrock (even if you buy it from Summit). Get it as Summit brand, from Summit; not Edelbrock brand, from Summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=SUM%2DK1103

So if it doesn't need to be bored, you're lucky.

 

I will look at the other cams, thanks.

I'm VERY lucky considering the shapre the motor was in when I got it out of the donor car. You can tell it had been driven like a freaking NASCAR stock car.

Also, I just want to make sure I have the good set of heads, how do I identify them? The car was a Z28, but I want to be certian.

Thanks.

 

It's not "other cams".... it's the identical same cam. Maybe even from the same grinder, and ground on the same blank, for all I know. No point in paying more for something than you have to. You can buy it as a Summit cam and it's $60, or you can buy it as an Edelbrock and it's $140. Hmmmmmm....... tough one.

The casting number of the heads will tell you what you need to know.

 

Ok, i saw the cam. It looks like it has more duration, is that better or worse?

Summit: 272/282
Edelbrock: 214/214

I like the summit cam because it comes with new lifters.

 

This is the Summit cam specs, if you go to the actual cam page (SUM-1103)

Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 272 intake/282 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 214 intake/224 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .442 in. intake/.465 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 112 degrees
* RPM range: 2,000 to 4,500
* Good idle quality



Here's the same thing for the Edelbrock cam. I was mistaken; the Summit cam has the better exhaust lobe like most of the cheaper generic cams, instead of the exhaust being a copy of the intake which is inferior especially for stock heads with their poorer-flowing exhaust.

Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 288 intake/288 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in.: 214 intake/214 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .442 in. intake/.442 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 112 degrees
* RPM range: Idle to 5,500


Of course, the "RPM range" is just what Edelbrock or whoever "declares" it is; it's not any kind of measurable spec.

The difference in the "advertised" duration is due to measurement technique. Edelbrock measures theirs at some lower lift than Summit; .001" lobe lift vs .005" lobe lift, or some such.

Looks like you can pay $80 less and actually get a better cam.



There's lots of other people that make it.... this one is "AMotion". Straight off their web page. Note the Edelbrock references.

All 214/224 .444/.467 288/298 116 19811-21177
400 Performer Plus Edelbrock 2103
All 214/214 .444/.444 288/288 112 Edelbrock 2103
400 For Edelbrock Performer Manifold 19811-21244


Another vendor of the identical same grind is Melling; their part # 22203. You can get it from Wolverine, Blue Racer, and all of those other generic grinders.

And the list goes on.

Don't pay any more than you have to.



I don't mean to sound like a jerk; but you really should listen more, and not fight back so much. There's people around here that can really help you out, help you get the most for your money and keep from making first-timer mistakes, if you'll just listen. It's not me you're hurting after all; it's you, and your motor, and your money, I'm just trying to help. But I'm real accustomed to being ignored: I have a wife and teenage kids, so I can go home and get ignored as much as I want, nobody there pays a damn lick of attention to anything I say either, I'm about the steeeewwwwpidest blob of protoplasm to ever splat onto the surface of this planet. They all just have to go off and do their own thing about stuff, and get burned and learn the hard way that I was right, too. It's your perfect right to do that to yourself.

 

Take it easy, i knwo how it feels, my wife never listens to me and she has to learn the hard way. I'm not fighting, simply asking questions to get the best answers. I am not one to take things as they come, i have to question. As I'm in a learning process here, there are more questions.

Anyway, thanks for the cam link. I will buy it tonight.

 

Hey where are u taking your block for that price I am looking at $400.00 just to rebuild the heads. I like the cam idea I have looked at those cams and woundered if they were any good. I figuered they had to be made by some brand name company. Answer me this: if my motor is ok with not needing boring. RB83L69 is yelling at us for boring out a 305. QUESTION is, isn't it worth havign it bored out just because u have it apart anyway then just re-ringing it and back together. When I get it back from the machineist and parts back on it won't the motor be as close to being new as can be? I am am about to buy parts for my ( cover your ears RB83L69) 305H.O. and if I can save on the maching cost and still have a very reliable motor this is a good thing right?

 

I think I kow what 88-import slayer is saying. I have listen to what u have said and taken it all in. I am not ignoring u. With my deal I Have weight the situation and I have to go with what I feel to be most comfortable for me. I have been asking a lot of questions and most say to go to 350. I feel ok with the 305 and like to keep the car semi original. I am also not looking for big housepower (good thing huh). I have never seen a place with more info on our cars than here.RB83L69 don't feel rejected
Just consider us teenagers who know it all, but still need guidance Thanks for the input and tips keep them coming

 

here I will let you do that for me.
Casting #460778
1978-1979
305 ci
either a 2 bolt or 4 bolt.
Yes they are out there.