I'm not sure what I did to my car, but when I go over hard bumps or give the car enough gas to feel some torque the shifter will bounce up and down. I honestly don't know where to start looking for problems. My shocks have been in need of replacement for a while, but I'm not sure that they're causing anything like that. I did go in reverse quickly one day to get out of my brother's way (anytime I try to start off quickly I have massive wheel hop that shakes the whole car), and it felt more violent than usual. Any ideas?

 

THe massive wheel hop in reverse i believe is normal, i have i too on my 89 rs. Does the gear shift travel up and down like 1 inch on take off? Mine did when i split my tranny mount raceing a buddy. It wasn't a hard fix, picked up a polyeurethane one from kragen for like 25 bucks, getting the proper stud was the hardest part. If you replace it, be sure to use red lock tight and impact the bolts on.

john

 

I agree, trans mount.

 

Any chances of the transmission deciding to just drop while I'm driving around? I have to drive the car to work, but I'm being easy on the car to keep it from bouncing. Where can I find the stud for the mount? How is the transmission mount replaced?

 

My shifter once suddenly started bouncing around too, so I pulled over right away, looked underneath, and the nut was just about to fall off of the transmission mount bolt.

Have you crawled underneath to have a look? If that's your problem, your nut might already be gone since it's been happening for awhile now. If that's not all it is, then it's probably the mount itself.

The transmission rests on and gets bolted through the cross-member. I don't see how it can "drop." But having it bouncing around won't be good for the rest of the drivetrain(or the chassis, I wouldn't think), so get it taken care of as soon as you can.

 

I've been taking it very easy on the car, so I haven't had the shifter bounce again yet. I'm hoping to get it looked at / repaired tomorrow, I don't want it breaking something else. Thanks for the help.

 

if you replace the trans mount buy a poly mount from ES and you'll never break another one, cost is about the same for poly as stock

 

i Got my poly mount from kragen, supposed to handle up to like 500 hp/tq. It is reinforced on the inside. I found the stud for it in the stud drawer behind the counter at autozone. Again, be sure to use red locktight on all your bolts. If you let this go too long it will difinitely weeken your engine mounts too and my yoke seal for the rear diff went out at the same time.

Directions

Jack stand all 4 corners.
put jack under transmission to support it when you take off your tranny crossmember.
Remove tranny cross member and mount, might need an impact or breaker bar.
Secure new stud well into new mount,
red locktight the hell out of everything.
impact it all back on.
Pull out jack and set her down.
Let sit 30 or so minutes for locktight to cure.
Beat the hell out of it, because you won't break this one...

 

My dad was trying to help, and a dealership wants $100 for the part and $100 or so for labor to replace it. I'm definately not paying $100 for a part that will break on me again later. Are there any places I can get the part without having to order online? I need to get this fixed today if possible, and I don't want to buy a part that will just snap on me again.

Edit: I found a transmission mount on Kragen, but it doesnt' say anything about being poly. The part is Anchor 2394 . Wrong one...?

 

here is the one in my car now..
http://www.lmperformance.com/3113/2.html

I guess kragen and autozone are not stocking them any more. Autozone sells the stock ones for 10 bucks, i don't think that you will splitt another one considering your old one was probably 15 years old and finally went. But don't pay someone to do this man, it is so easy to do. there is another teck link on here too.


https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...nnymount.shtml

hope this all helps

frog

 

I was thinking about the 15 year old mount thing earlier, and if Autozone sells them for $10 and has them in stock, I'll just get one today and put it on. Thanks a lot.

 

No Worries, i help if i can, since the only thing i know about is my ride. Gotta Feel smart sometimes.

 

I just got back from getting an Energy Suspension mount, part number 3.1108GC. I thought it was supposed to be 3.1108G, but the one they had has a C on the end, and it looked exactly like the one on the lmperformance site. I can't change the mount right now because it's about to rain, i have no garage, the road is gravel, and my yard will turn to mud. I may just drive it up to work tomorrow before my shift and work on it then. I only have 2 jack stands and 1 jack to do this with though, so hopefully it'll be fine.

Edit: I also have no impact wrench, I'd have to do it with a ratchet, so still a good idea to do it myself...?

 

you'll be fine.

when i bought my car, i drove it hard, and fun. broke the mount, got a stock replacement, broke that like 3 months later. got the energy suspension one u have. its poly, it will just about forever. a regular wrench will hold the nuts just fine.

on a sidenote, u may have to elongate the hole in the crossmember to get the new bolt to fit through (they are a tad larger)

 

I remember enlarging the hole too, the stud is a little too wide to fit through, i used a dremmel tool that i got for 20 bucks from wall mart.
Yeah, i still think it is a good idea to do it yourself and get the pride of working on your own car. a shop will charge you from 100-200 bucks to put it in, lets add up the totals for tools that you don't have.

Breaker bar (craftsman) $15
red lock tight $3
Dremmel $20
Grinder Bit for dremmel $3
Either another set of jack stands or ramps so all 4 corners can be up $20

grand total....... $61
And now you will have all these tools that you will need later on, you saved yourself 40-140 bucks, plus the satisfaction of not feeling helpless and actually doing the work yourself. We all started somewhere working on cars man, with all of the help on these boards, there shouldn't be much we can not walk you through. good luck bud...

John

 

Ok, it's fixed. It was easy enough. I was able to get a guy I know at a local shop to let me use the lift and a tall jack to change the thing out. Thanks for the help guys.

 

No worries man, how does it feel to shift that tight tranny??
:lala: "Like a Virgin, Shifted for the very first time...:lala:

Take it easy

John

 

That mount seems to amplify a vibration I had before. I'm not sure what the vibration is, but it started up when I hit some gravel on a highway going 60 and did a 180, then another 180 in the opposite direction. I didn't go off the road, but I ended up in the opposing lane's shoulder. I'm not sure if i threw a weight off one of the tires, but that may be what's causing the vibration. I plan to get my brakes, shocks/struts, and front right tire replaced soon anyway. Just incase it's something else, the vibration is slightly, then gets harder, then goes light again. The alternation period depends on speed, and it's only hard vibration after about 60. It feels somewhat like driving on a gravel road I suppose (when it vibrates hard). Any ideas?

 

that is not normal.

did u use the plate that came with it?

 

same question as above, did you use the supplied plate? also, is your cooling fan a clutch style or a electric?
It would make sense that your old little vibe would be amplified, instead of your mushy rubber mount absorbing most of it, now the poly mount is more dense so it will carry vibes better. I actually learned something about density carrying sound (which is in essence vibrations) better and more quickly through a more dense medium. Shoot, i can't believe i actually learned something from that guy back in 1994 freshman physics and remembered it. Funny

john

 

cuz somehow it related to cars at the time prolly :P

 

I believe the vibration is from an unbalanced tire. I did not use the supplied plate, though. The guy at the shop said it didn't require it. Should I have? I knew the new mount would amplify the vibrations a bit due to the increase in density, but I'm still not 100% sure what the vibration is. Would the tires being unbalanced cause that?

 

Funny reply but i would have to drive it to tell. Unbalanced tires can cause vibrations, a blown shock or strut will cause the tire to jump up and down on the roads surface at speeds, flat spotted tires will cause a slight vibration.

any of this sound like a maybe to you?

john

 

Could be a flat spot or unbalanced. I just had the shocks and struts replaced, so it's not them. The car slid a good distance before stopping, so it could've flattened part of the tire or thrown weights.

 

It's a damn shame it's like $8 per tire to balance them, when it generally only takes a few minutes to get into the air, and maybe one to two minutes to balance each tire. Overpriced if you ask me. And I WORK THERE!

But I should still suggest getting a balance done when you get around to it. Might help....plus when theyre spinning them up, make sure to ask them to look for a bent rim or an out-of-round tire, anything that could cause a vibration. We get asked that frequently so we know what to look for....

 

I agree 8 bucks is a lot for how simple it is now with our machines used to balance the tire (I work for Express Tire). But none the less, it does make a big difference.

I got a quick way to fix a flat spotted tire, do a nice long burnout, then swap the fonts to the rear and do it again, of course videotape it, and post the burnouts here. then your tires should be round again, so drive to the tire shop and get a new set. (gotta have a little sarcasm, its early and i have a hangover)
john