how hard, or whats the trick
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 663
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From: Montana
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: L-69 305
Transmission: T-5 manual
how hard, or whats the trick
im gonna be pulling my oil pan tomarrow to see how bad the internals blew up, whats the trick to getting the pan off while motor is in the car
looked underneath it today and it looks very tigth with the cross member and the y-pipe
is there a trick to getting it out?
looked underneath it today and it looks very tigth with the cross member and the y-pipe
is there a trick to getting it out?
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From: Kingsport, TN
Car: '92 RS, '84 Z28
Engine: 383, L69
Transmission: T56, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.42
If the internals are screwed, why waste time lookin, when then engine needs to be pulled anyhow?
Just tryin to save some work, pulling the pan can be done, but even on a lifted truck, it really sucks
Just tryin to save some work, pulling the pan can be done, but even on a lifted truck, it really sucks
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Senior Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 663
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From: Montana
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: L-69 305
Transmission: T-5 manual
it still runs, so im hopping it was something minor, that can be fixed, mainly my dad is making me do it
im gonna do a 350 swap if any major work has to be done
im gonna do a 350 swap if any major work has to be done
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Kingsport, TN
Car: '92 RS, '84 Z28
Engine: 383, L69
Transmission: T56, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.42
Do you know exactly what is wrong, chew a bearing, rod related? If its the bearing, the crank is gonna need re ground, and that means its gonna have to be out of the car. If it were me id just pull it and find out whats wrong and either fix it or drop a 350 in it
To answer the ??... Take the dist cap off, position a jack under the harmonic balancer or better, get a hoist and hook to the engine. Support the engine's weight and remove the through bolts in the engine mounts, raise the engine (a lot). Shimmy your butt back under the car and start removing bolts/nuts and drop the pan.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Usually when theres noise in the bottem end theres no point in just peeking in. I'd just pull the engine and then take a look, I bet it would take less time to pull the engine then pull the pan then just to wiggle the pan off then try to wiggle it back in keeping the new gaskets intact.
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Originally posted by SSC
I bet it would take less time to pull the engine then pull the pan then just to wiggle the pan off then try to wiggle it back in keeping the new gaskets intact.
I bet it would take less time to pull the engine then pull the pan then just to wiggle the pan off then try to wiggle it back in keeping the new gaskets intact.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Originally posted by Morley
No way you are yanking that engine and putting it back in in that amount of time.
No way you are yanking that engine and putting it back in in that amount of time.
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Senior Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 663
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From: Montana
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: L-69 305
Transmission: T-5 manual
ok, i feel like an idiot
i had my grandfather come over who is a mechanic and he listened to it, and flat out said i was jumping way to fast at the fact that it was a blown rod
after he pointed out that it was an extremely tinny noise (which i relized after he said it) we started looking for what it could be
pulled the bellhousing dust shield off and it was bent into the end of the crank, so every time one of the lobes on the crank end hit it it thunked
took it out and startedthe car, and no thunking
i straightened it out, then put it back in and guess what, the noise was gone
so nothing needs to be pulled out now, but im still gonna start building a 350 for it, ive got the perfect motor to start with as a gift from my grandpa for my birthday/graduation gift
i had my grandfather come over who is a mechanic and he listened to it, and flat out said i was jumping way to fast at the fact that it was a blown rod
after he pointed out that it was an extremely tinny noise (which i relized after he said it) we started looking for what it could be
pulled the bellhousing dust shield off and it was bent into the end of the crank, so every time one of the lobes on the crank end hit it it thunked
took it out and startedthe car, and no thunking
i straightened it out, then put it back in and guess what, the noise was gone
so nothing needs to be pulled out now, but im still gonna start building a 350 for it, ive got the perfect motor to start with as a gift from my grandpa for my birthday/graduation gift
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