junk starter?
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 195
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From: MA
Car: 1993 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7 LT1
Transmission: T-56
junk starter?
So I have a 350 tpi and sometimes it just doesn't want to start. Because it runs fine when it does start and also because I can hear the fuel pump functioning, I don't beleive it is fuel related, I haven't quite ruled out an electrical (coil ect.) issue, but again, because when it does get started, it runs fine, I think it is the starter itself, what happens is that the engine turns, but it doesn't start, it turns slowly though, almost like the starter isn't turning fast enough. My question is basically, can a starter not function well? I kind of thought a starter was one of those things that either works, or doesn't, but im not sure about it, just seeing if anyone knows anything that could help, thanks.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Try a known good battery from a car where the starter seems to spin normally (don't just "believe" yours is good), check the connections where the cables hook to the battery. If it still cranks slow, it could be the starter.
Consider an aftermarket min-starter rather than a direct replacement one. Their design is far superior to the old Stone Age direct-drive Delco unit. Either a Nippondenso one or a Hitachi one, from whatever source (PowerMaster, CVR, Summit brand, etc. etc. etc.); or even a late-model Delco with gear reduction for a LT1.
Consider an aftermarket min-starter rather than a direct replacement one. Their design is far superior to the old Stone Age direct-drive Delco unit. Either a Nippondenso one or a Hitachi one, from whatever source (PowerMaster, CVR, Summit brand, etc. etc. etc.); or even a late-model Delco with gear reduction for a LT1.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 24
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From: I am all around you...even now...actually Japan, but don't tell anyone, it's a secret
Car: 90'300ZX/87'Formula (In Storage)
Engine: 300ZX:3.0LTT/Formula:5.0L
Transmission: 300ZX:Manual 5SPD/Formula:700R-4
It has been my experience that the starter either works or doesn't...try hitting the starter casing with a hammer; if it starts easier after you hit it, them it is your starter. If not, then I would maybe check your battery...it might be getting old, check the battery conections on the battery and the starter too. good luck!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 6
From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
You might take your battery to auto zone and have them charge it and run a load test on it. They do this for free. There is no way to "cheat" on the test and tell you that you have a bad battery. The load tested has a digital readout and indicates a good or bad battery.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 195
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From: MA
Car: 1993 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7 LT1
Transmission: T-56
more to this
i decided to post this initially today (even though this has been a problem for a while now, but it never mattered cause the car wasn't on the road) because when i went to take it to work today it wouldn't start, well when i took lunch i went home (in my mom's taurus mind you
) and i just figured id turn it to see what happens and it started right up like nothing happened. barley even turned over, just started right up. Now aside of this car being possesed, that leads me to beleive the battery is fine... so again, starter? could this be control module? i live in MA so there was a pretty big temp and moisture difference between the two times if that could make a difference... bad grounds? i dunno, any input greatly appreciated. thanks
) and i just figured id turn it to see what happens and it started right up like nothing happened. barley even turned over, just started right up. Now aside of this car being possesed, that leads me to beleive the battery is fine... so again, starter? could this be control module? i live in MA so there was a pretty big temp and moisture difference between the two times if that could make a difference... bad grounds? i dunno, any input greatly appreciated. thanks Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 195
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From: MA
Car: 1993 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7 LT1
Transmission: T-56
update
So I've had the battery tested at autozone, it checked out perfect. I changed the control module, which I also had tested, perfect. I put a new starter in it, it sounds stronger when it cranks, the old one was probably on its way out, but it still didn't fix the problem. i am getting puffs of smoke when it is cranking coming from the passenger side firewall area near where the coil is. Would a coil smoke? Also would a vaccuum leak cause this occasional starting bs? Im stumped here.
Also Id just like to mention that when it does start up, it runs pretty strong, i notice some idle climbing up and down, but for a car that was not run for a while, it sounds pretty damn good.
Also Id just like to mention that when it does start up, it runs pretty strong, i notice some idle climbing up and down, but for a car that was not run for a while, it sounds pretty damn good. Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Sounds like your negative battery cable is broken or has a bad connection, where it attaches to the block.
This is basic DC electricity, not rocket science. If you have a battery that can supply the load current that the starter will flow, and a good starter motor, and a good low-resistance path from the battery to the starter and then from the block back to the battery, then it has no choice but to work right. Within the limits of the poorly designed starter anyway. It should at least work right enough to start up easily, even if it cranks only half as fast and uses twice as much battery power to do it, as a modern design starter does.
This is basic DC electricity, not rocket science. If you have a battery that can supply the load current that the starter will flow, and a good starter motor, and a good low-resistance path from the battery to the starter and then from the block back to the battery, then it has no choice but to work right. Within the limits of the poorly designed starter anyway. It should at least work right enough to start up easily, even if it cranks only half as fast and uses twice as much battery power to do it, as a modern design starter does.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 195
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From: MA
Car: 1993 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7 LT1
Transmission: T-56
thanks RB83L69
I've also been drilling through the archives , searching for anything that could help me, and I came across a thread that spoke about putting the battery in the trunk and then only grounding it to the frame, instead of the block like it is up front, i've recently done this, and I only grounded it to the frame, so im thinking (along with your post RB83L69, ty btw) that that may be my issue, the whole battery ground thing. The only thing I totally don't understand is how come it works sometimes, and if it does start once, if i shut it off immediatley and then try to turn it again, it won't start.... i mean, if it's a bad ground, shouldn't it either work or not work, i dunno, just kind strange.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,262
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
"putting the battery in the trunk and then only grounding it to the frame, instead of the block like it is up front, i've recently done this, and I only grounded it to the frame"
get the motor grounded to the frame,... use a good cable to ground it, at-least as good as what a battery cable is.
"i am getting puffs of smoke when it is cranking coming from the passenger side firewall area near where the coil is"
right now the only ground you have other than through the drive train is a small ground strap.
do not try to start it until you have the motor properly grounded to the frame. if your motor & trans mounts & torque arm mounts at the trans are all good, you are grounding through the gears in the rear end, this can damage the rear end, the u-joints, the slip yoke, the trans & does the bearing in the motor no good. i have seen the gears in the rear end that looked like the teeth had been put on with a welding machine.
get the motor grounded to the frame,... use a good cable to ground it, at-least as good as what a battery cable is.
"i am getting puffs of smoke when it is cranking coming from the passenger side firewall area near where the coil is"
right now the only ground you have other than through the drive train is a small ground strap.
do not try to start it until you have the motor properly grounded to the frame. if your motor & trans mounts & torque arm mounts at the trans are all good, you are grounding through the gears in the rear end, this can damage the rear end, the u-joints, the slip yoke, the trans & does the bearing in the motor no good. i have seen the gears in the rear end that looked like the teeth had been put on with a welding machine.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 1
From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
The most common starting problem is not having a good engine ground. This sounds like your problem. It is always best to connect the negative cable from the battery directly to the engine block itself. The steel in the car is not a very good conductor of electricity. So when you try pushing a huge current (starting engine) through it you have problems.
Connect the negative battery cable directly to a clean spot on the engine block, and hopefully your starting issues will vanish.
Connect the negative battery cable directly to a clean spot on the engine block, and hopefully your starting issues will vanish.
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