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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 03:06 PM
  #1  
hellraiser319's Avatar
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From: QC
blue smoke

hello all again,

my car has developed another issue..... when ever the engine is warmed up and i stop for a light or whatever, and i accelerate again i get a bunch of blue smoke comin out of the exhaust. to my knowledge its oil leaking past the oil control rings during idle and is burning off when i accelerate. right now im running Mobil 1 Drive Clean 5W-30. i was wondering if my rings are gone or its just because i need thicker oil...(anything but 20w50 again)

thanx for everyones time
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 03:35 PM
  #2  
dimented24x7's Avatar
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
10W-30 wouldnt hurt, but if its smoking then there is something wrong. How many miles are on it?
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 05:55 PM
  #3  
AlbertaFbody's Avatar
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From: Red Deer AB Canada
Car: 86 z28
Engine: 305 carbed with 3" Y pipe back
Transmission: 700r4 that is breaking down
this sort of problem occurs with my car when it gets hot and im not running thick enough oil. well when the car is hot the viscosity of the oil is thinner and at idle it runs past my valve seals and gets burnt off inthe chambers. possible this is what happens with your car alhto. does this happen when your car is cold. and when it is cold can your rev the engine no blue smoke?
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 10:48 PM
  #4  
hellraiser319's Avatar
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From: QC
most of the time it smokes after the oil warms up, due to oil thinning out from heat of course. it only happens in situations when i stop the car and it sits idling for more than 30 seconds, smoke kinda comes out but almost unnoticible but when i accelerate it smokes until all the leaking oil in the engine is burnt off. the only time it smokes when its cold is when i let it idle a little bit b4 turning it off and i start it up again (oil still warm). currently the engine has 174,000 miles on it and i got it with 172,000. the previous owner was running 20w-50 in it, i dunno if it was because he burnt something out and its all that keeps it from smoking or he prefers it. also when i first got it there was alot of condensation in the oil, which i thought a head gasket blew but that was fixed with an oil change. it runs powerful, so i dunno if this will be a future problem or what.... thanx for your help guys

ps. could this also be a problem due to timing being off? with the esc it the timing is reallly advanced, base timing is at 0*... just a thought.
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 11:22 PM
  #5  
AlbertaFbody's Avatar
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From: Red Deer AB Canada
Car: 86 z28
Engine: 305 carbed with 3" Y pipe back
Transmission: 700r4 that is breaking down
yes i have the problem and the same car i beleive also with same milage. it is bad valve seals is what i have been told from my mechanic. altho mine hasn't gotten to the point of smoking when hiting the gas
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 11:29 PM
  #6  
hellraiser319's Avatar
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From: QC
AlbertaFbody, did ur mechanic mention how much work that would be to fix the seals? or is it just one of those things where ya might as well leave it its not hurting anything until u gotta do other work and that happens to be in the same area?
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 12:43 PM
  #7  
88firebird's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Welland Ontario
Car: 89 GTA (88 Firebird V6 to V8 conversion RIP)
Engine: 305
Transmission: 5 spd
I'd like to know how much work valve seals are too... previous owner of my car said valve seals are shot, and the car smokes a little bit too, mostly at lower speeds. I'll probably have to fix this in order to pass emissions. Anyone?
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 12:49 PM
  #8  
RB83L69's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Valve guide seals are very easy to replace. No need to suffer with a motor that has that problem. No need to take it to somebody else to do it, in most cases; if you can adjust valves, you can handle replacing those seals.

Less than $20 of parts and a couple of hours work.
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 01:20 PM
  #9  
Stekman's Avatar
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Posts: 4,803
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Agreed, the valve seals are really not that tricky to replace. The only real "specialty tool" you will end up needing is probably the valve spring compressor. They can be rented at Autozone most likely, using their loan-a-tool service. I just bought it, its a cheap enough tool.

If you do a search, you can find the instructions for valve seal replacement.
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