coolant temp gauge
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
coolant temp gauge
my coolant temperaure gauge doesnt work...i replaced the sensor but it didnt fix the gauge...any suggestions?
i heard it may be related to the thermostat?
i heard it may be related to the thermostat?
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Re: coolant temp gauge
Originally posted by blyth18md
my coolant temperaure gauge doesnt work...i replaced the sensor but it didnt fix the gauge...any suggestions?
i heard it may be related to the thermostat?
my coolant temperaure gauge doesnt work...i replaced the sensor but it didnt fix the gauge...any suggestions?
i heard it may be related to the thermostat?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 2
From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
no its completely stock, how hard id it to pull the gauge cluster out enough to wiggle the wires? can i get sum simple instructions?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
1st, the thermostat would only affect the temp gage if the engine is staying dead cold. Not likely.
Before you go tearing things apart, try a simple test. With the engine off, remove the wire from the sending unit (the one on the driver's side head) and ground it. Turn the ignition on (don't need to start the engine), and the gage should go to full hot. If it does, then there isn't anything wrong with the wiring, and probably isn't anything wrong with the gage. You might have gotten the wrong sending unit though (one for a temp light, not a temp gage).
If it doesn't do anything during this test, you've either got a wiring or gage problem.
FWIW, the gage should go to full hot every time you put the ignition to the start position.
Before you go tearing things apart, try a simple test. With the engine off, remove the wire from the sending unit (the one on the driver's side head) and ground it. Turn the ignition on (don't need to start the engine), and the gage should go to full hot. If it does, then there isn't anything wrong with the wiring, and probably isn't anything wrong with the gage. You might have gotten the wrong sending unit though (one for a temp light, not a temp gage).
If it doesn't do anything during this test, you've either got a wiring or gage problem.
FWIW, the gage should go to full hot every time you put the ignition to the start position.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,408
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From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
well i know for sure i got one for the gauge (they ask if it was for gauge or light)..the sensor is connected to two wires..do i just ground either wire?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The "Coolant Temperature Sensor" has two wires and goes in the thermostat housing on the intake manifold. It tells the computer how warm the engine is.
The gage temperature sending unit is in the driver's side head between the two front spark plugs. It only has one wire going to it.
The gage temperature sending unit is in the driver's side head between the two front spark plugs. It only has one wire going to it.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=245645
Picture #3 (exhaust and spark plugs removed in that pic).
Picture #3 (exhaust and spark plugs removed in that pic).
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Anything that will provide a ground - i.e., not painted or too corroded.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
Sorry to hijack your thread but I have a question that has to do with the CTS.
I decided to check my SES light today and it gave me a code 14 - Coolant sensor high temperature fault. I remember when I was changing the coolant in my car about a month ago, I broke the prongs that kept the CTS attached to the thermostat housing and used electrical tape to keep it attached to the housing.
I'm wondering if this is a serious problem? I've been driving with the SES light on for a while and never seemed to notice any problems with drivability. Just decided to check it out of curiosity today.
Do I need to replace the entire sensor?
I decided to check my SES light today and it gave me a code 14 - Coolant sensor high temperature fault. I remember when I was changing the coolant in my car about a month ago, I broke the prongs that kept the CTS attached to the thermostat housing and used electrical tape to keep it attached to the housing.
I'm wondering if this is a serious problem? I've been driving with the SES light on for a while and never seemed to notice any problems with drivability. Just decided to check it out of curiosity today.
Do I need to replace the entire sensor?
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: NE Ohio
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS
I assume you are talking about the sensor that is in the thermostat housing? If so, make sure there is no pressure in the coolant system and then you just unscrew it and screw in another one. It is important if you have an automatic. It determines when the lockup torque converter engages.
phil
phil
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
No, I am talking about the actual harness that connects the sensor to the ECM through the wire.
But thanks for letting me know about why it is important. I need to go to a dealership to grab one... AutoZone says they don't carry it.
But thanks for letting me know about why it is important. I need to go to a dealership to grab one... AutoZone says they don't carry it.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
About half of the locking tabs are broken off the sensor connectors on my underhood harness. They get pretty brittle with age, just a little too much pry when disconnecting and they snap.
Most of them I just leave as they are as long as they stay connected. All it needs to do is keep the seal engaged, as long as that's happening, you're okay.
Most of them I just leave as they are as long as they stay connected. All it needs to do is keep the seal engaged, as long as that's happening, you're okay.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,104
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From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
That would be ok if it weren't three things:
1) The harness itself tends to fall out of the sensor... it won't just "lay" inside of the connector on the sensor. It pops out. I temporarily fixed it using a massive amount of electrical tape.
2) I am very dubious of the fact that the harness is actually doing its job. If I remember, I think the pins were bent when I tried to reconnect the harness to the connector and I had to keep bending them to make it fit into the sensor. I have a feeling my rough handling may have affected the stability of the harness itself (although the sensor is brand new).
3) The SES light is coming on. Obviously there is something wrong with the sensor somewhere.
I wish I had asked more questions before doing a complete coolant change... I went into that procedure totally blind of this stuff.
1) The harness itself tends to fall out of the sensor... it won't just "lay" inside of the connector on the sensor. It pops out. I temporarily fixed it using a massive amount of electrical tape.
2) I am very dubious of the fact that the harness is actually doing its job. If I remember, I think the pins were bent when I tried to reconnect the harness to the connector and I had to keep bending them to make it fit into the sensor. I have a feeling my rough handling may have affected the stability of the harness itself (although the sensor is brand new).
3) The SES light is coming on. Obviously there is something wrong with the sensor somewhere.
I wish I had asked more questions before doing a complete coolant change... I went into that procedure totally blind of this stuff.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,104
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
Ok... last thing and then I should be done.
I went to my local dealership and bought the harness (expensive too, I might add--$21.03). Now to replace the old one, what should I do? Should I completely remove the factory wiring and put the new wiring in it's place, or should I splice the factory wiring and just connect it with the new harness? If I had to do that, would I have to solder the wires?
Thanks again.
I went to my local dealership and bought the harness (expensive too, I might add--$21.03). Now to replace the old one, what should I do? Should I completely remove the factory wiring and put the new wiring in it's place, or should I splice the factory wiring and just connect it with the new harness? If I had to do that, would I have to solder the wires?
Thanks again.
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