Hello,
I just purchased a 1988 Firebird Formula with a 305 VIN E (TBI)and I am in the process of doing a tune up so that I know that it has been done. I have 2 questions for now. First, How does the distributor rotor button come off? My manual say so "remove the 2 screws" and it will come right off. I have looked at it from every angle, felt it with my finger and cussed at it. There are no screws. I tried pulling on it but it wouldn't budge and I didn't pull too hard because I don't want to break anything. Second, how does one time the engine? I can't find a timing pointer anywhere around the balancer.

I am new to the computer controlled world. My first and only vehicle untill now is a 1961 Ford F-100 which I have hotrodded a little - I did all of the work myself. I understand a lot of the theories and facts about engines and performance.

 

That particular kind of rotor has no screws. It is very prone to getting stuck. You may have to just blow it away and vacuum up the fragments. Put a light smear of silicone dielectric grease on the shaft to keep it from happening again.

The timing pointer is sort of behind the water pump. It can't be in the traditional place because the PS pump is in the way. Look straight down along the front of the motor, between the timing cover and the water pump; you'll see it down there. It's real easy to use once you find it.

 

Blow it away? Like with a hammer or firecracker! That sounds fun!

 

Not a firecracker! Seriously, try prying up on it and if it absolutely still won't budge, then use a hammer, just not too hard so you don't mess up the distributor.

To time the engine you have to first know where to look (which RB83L69 described). Then of course hook up the timing light. Start the car. Once you start the car, you will need to disconnect a wire. It is located on the passenger side in between the strut tower and the AC components. All you have to do is just disconnect the two connectors. If I remember right, it is a brown wire. And, of course, reconnect the wire after you are done or it will set a code. Some of this info should be on one of your stickers the inside of your hood.

Hope this helps.

 

I'd say that a few 'taps' w/ a rubber mallet would do the trick. Hitting it w/ a hammer may damage your distributor (IMO)... just be careful and you should be A-OK !

Good Luck !

 

Thanks for the help. I'll give it a whirl. I would never use a fire cracker. It probably wouldn't do much anyway.

 

I have a question about the fuel filter. Is this set up in such a way that only a few ounces of gas will spill out when the filter is disconnected or can all of the gas in the tank come out? I know about relieving the pressure before changing the filter. I want to know how big of a catch can that I will need.

 

You will just get a small amount of gas that comes out, maybe a cup at the most. Also as stated don't forget to pull your est wire to set your base timing. Here is a picture of an EST wire.

 

haha, I was looking at the book today too going, "I no see dem screws boss."

I just used a flat blade screw driver and a bar to act as a lever, and pried up on it and it cam off with a few tries.

 

omcrider, Thanks for the pic and the info on the fuel filter. Both will be helpful. Your car looks like it is the same color as mine - bright red, or please write me a ticket, as it is sometimes known!

I just carefully broke the rotor off with some pliers. I was having no success with a rubber mallet.

 

Well thats not really my car, just a picture I borrowed some time back when I was looking for the EST wire. On my car the EST sits up higher in the large wire loom there, but was also very easy to find. My GTA is gunmetal.

 

Alright. I'm just about finished with the tune up. All I have left is changing the coolant and checking the timing. I looked for the timing pointer and I can find something that looks like a tube that is aimed at the balancer. I don't see the pointer with a series of V's on it like it is usualy described. I think that "tube" is the pointer but I want to make sure.
Here is what I have done so far:
Air filter
Air cleaner housing gaskets
PCV (crankcase) filter
PCV Valve + grommet
EECS (carbon cannister) filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Distributor cap
Distributor rotor
Coil
O2 sensor
Changed oil and filter
What's left:
Change coolant
Check timing.
Are there any other sensors that are changed with regular maintenance? Should I run some fuel system cleaner through it just to do it? Is there anything else that you all can think of? And thanks for all of your help.

I got a little sidetracked this past week. The bushings in the headlight motors gave out so I replaced them. Those plastic ones that turn the big gear. Now they work great! And I love the car so far!

 

This has no real relavance to this post but I would like to commend you on your hard work to your new car. Most people new to the 3rd gen world are just like "I just bought a new [enter name here] and I want it to run in the 10's" but you came in looking for advice on how to make it run right first. I commend you on your effort. Thanks.

Oh yea once to get it running right then you can ask how to make it run in the 10's.

 

Grease your suspension
Look at your brake fluid change if old and nasty (I need to do this)

Sounds like you got most maintenance items, most other sensors are a replace as they fail type of thing. Funny I have never thought about the filter in the charcoal canister. Maybe I should replace mine before smog this year.

Good job and its a great way to get you familiar with a new car.

 

Thanks for the comment. Like I suggested in the initial post, I have some experience with performance - non computer controlled but performance none the less. I have learned that modifying a car that isn't running right to start with will get one nowhere. It will probably break it or at least make matters worse. The car was running fine when I purchased it but now I know that these items have been replaced and that they are in good working order.
I don't know that I'll hit 10s with it but I want to try for 300hp and keep it street legal. The 170 that it has now feels acceptable. But I'm used to the truck which is in the neighborhood of 300 and has gobs of torque. I built that engine with original or repro factory HP Nascar parts plus balancing and blue printing the block. It's a 292 Y-block that came from a '59 farilane - now 301CI. For a daily driver 170 just isn't enough!
I'm one of those guys that likes all of the makes so long as they have a V8. I don't favor one brand over another. They all have there good stuff and bad stuff.
Again, I appreciate the comment.
Greasing the suspension, changing trans and diff oil, and brake fluid are on another list of things to do.
My charcoal cannister didn't have an old filter on it and I didn't see how the filter works but I put a new one in anyway.

 

Sounds like you have done just about everything. Make sure you check your brakes (shoes and pads) to see if you need new ones and check your vacuum lines. It seems as though everyone forgets to check vacuum lines (yes, including me ).

 

I am going to move on to the transmission and Axle fluid change. My manual says to use dexron II ATF in the tranny. All that is at the parts store is dexron III. Does the III supercede the II. Will the III be safe to use? This is the first manual tranny that I have had that uses ATF. I also have positraction. Will any GL-5 hypoid gear oil be fine for this? Or should I get an additive? Is there anything that I should watch out for?

 

Yes, you can use Dexron 3 ATF no problem. Better yet, use a synthetic ATF like Mobil 1 or Redline or Royal Purple. RP also makes a special oil for manual trannys that call for ATF, it's called Synchromax. The Synchromax is a bit pricey though. I'm just getting ready to change the oil in my WC T5 and I bought one quart of Synchromax, and will fill the rest with M1 ATF.

For the rear end, some synthetic GL5 oils say a posi additive is not needed. Depends on what you get, read the bottle! Do you have the 9-bolt rear end? Regardless, again here I would recommend a good synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or RP.

 

Yep, just use Dexron III (Dexron II isn't made anymore). And about the axle lube, some gear oils will say if you need an additive for a posi or not, just as Tremo said. But, technically, you are supposed to use an additive for posi's.

 

Tremo, The rear is a 10 bolt. I am going fully synthetic. I have been a fan of Mobil 1 for a while now. What do you usually use to fill the tranny? It doesn't look like there is enough room to use a funnel. I got a syringe but it can only fill about 4oz at a time! The rear looks like it will be easy to fill. There isn't much in the way.
I also got some posi additive.

 

You should buy a pump. You can pick them up for 8-15 bucks at most auto stores. Works great for pulling fluid out as well. Need to drain your tank bust out the pump. Comes in handy worth the cheap cost.

 

if your going to replace the brake fluid you might as well replace the brake line hoses and go stainless steel. i have earls from Jegs it was 70 bucks and definetly stops better. now i dont have to think about my 12 year old brake lines when i hit the brakes.

 

For the tranny I use the top of a water bottle with a sport top. It can still get a little messy if you're shaky, but I haven't spilled any yet.

 

That job is done. I just used the syringe since I already had it. It took about an hour to fill the tranny but it worked great.
After doing all of this work I think I am going to get some subframe connectors. The engine is not powerful enough so that the car needs them... yet. But the recommended jack stand locations. Ha! Yeah right! When I let the jack down so that the car can rest on the stands I can see the frame starting to bend. I didn't let the car down enough to do any damage. The subframe connectors will give me a good solid jacking point and jack stand location. And lets face it. Once I know that everything is ok that 170hp is going to increase rather rapidly! Quickly exceeding that of the most powerful 350 that was available in these cars!
Tonight I am going to grease the steering linkage, oil hinges, graphite the locks, etc.

 

Now I am completely finished! Do these cars tend to idle a little rough - almost like it is idleing too low. The idle tends to wander between 500 and 550 RPM, approximately. Since I have never owned or driven a V8 model Firebird before I don't really know how they typicaly run. I don't have any codes. I have done a few searches and found that there are a few things that may not trigger an SES light. I think that one was the IAC. I don't remember the rest and I haven't been able to find them again. Or should I just enjoy the car and not worry about it. There are no driveability issues and in runs great everywhere else in the rpm range.

 

if it was mine, id remove the TBI and clean out the PCV and vac ports really good... alot of people dont replace the PCV when they should.. it tends to clog up the throttlebody and cause idle problems... id also remove the IAC and clean it too...