Hey guys I want 13.3@104 with a 1.9 60-foot time with the motor in my sig. I have a best mph of 105mph so I know with some drag radials I can probably get the car to dip into the 12's. Now I was seriously considering buying a nitrous kit for my car but for the $600 I would end of spending cause I would have to buy the best and just about eveything to go with it cause thats me lol, I could put a bigger cam in there and mess aroudn with some other stuff. Now I am just wondering what everyones opinion is and what your guys think I need to reach my goal of low 12's and eventually 11's. Thanks guys.

 

whats your 60 foot times, is traction a problem!

i think you have enough horsepower, but if u need more, have u gasket matched the intake/heads, lightly ported up the exhaust side of the head , kusei know those vortec's will really flow with minor portin on the exhaust, int is fine. whats hte compression?

you make your power from well matched head/cam thats where the real horsepower comes from. so i would be playing around with them first



with the motor u have i have heard of guys running low 12's/high 11's with 3500 converter 3.73 gears and slicks

 

Pull your front sway bar when running at the track. It was worth a tenth on my car because of the added traction.

 

Your car should already be running pretty close to the numbers you want... Put some sticky tires on it and a Holley carb (I had to say it!) I bet you could get that thing 12.50's on motor. With a 150 shot, considering good traction and holeshotting the car, you could probably go dip into the low 11's

ET Streets
750 Holley DP
Tuning
Lots of seat time.

 

We need to get you tuned up. If you are anywhere lower than 6200 feet you should be into the 12's at least. I can run a 13.00 at 106.5 with a 1.95 60 foot up at 6300 DA. Something is not right here. Your car still runs strong but it should run a tad bit better. I could only get a 2.1 60 foot on street tires (245-50 16) with drag radials i average 1.95's and have seen a few low 1.8's. I feel my car will break 12.9's here with over 6000 feet DA. At sea level that is like a 12.1-2. I bet with just the proper tune you will be WAY faster.

88IROC: I agree with the DP carb totally. I think edelbrock 750's are junk. i had one on here and all it did was make my car dog slow off the line. My 600 will beat down a lot of Holley vac secondaries I bet.

 

the only reason I have stayed away from holleys are well first off the price, and secound, everyone I know that runs one can never get there cars to run as good as mine, I have the fastest all motor car in my town thats on the street... I mean besides changing jets, and adjusting the floats and idle mixture screws and getting the right power valve, what else can your do to a holley to dial it is, cause i am a little intimidated by them to be honest cause i knwo theres so much, the edelbrock is just so easy..

 

I have an Edelbrock 600, not a Holley. It runs a lot better than my 750 1407 edelbrock ever did. Pm me and we can talk about your setup, and the tune on it. My setup is dyno tuned and track tested for the best results.

 

Holleys can be a little funny sometimes but once you get them dialed in they're insane. Edelbrocks are designed to be easy. They, as the man himself says "perform right out of the box." Holley I'd say is more aimed towards maximum performance which is why they're more sensitive but in the end you'll get the best performance

 

You have enough horsepower right now to run 12's.
105 is easily good enough for mid to high 12's. Low 12's are possible with sharp tuning.

You need slicks or at least M/T ET Streets.
get some 10.5-26-15 Et Streets. Install them on clean rims, dry ( no soap) set the air pressure at 15PSI after driving around for a while at 30psi to seat the beads.
Do a good burnout and pull right to the line.
Drop the hammer at 5000+/-rpm and power shift the car.
(gas pedal to the floor) U have a MSD 6AL with a rev limiter. use it. Plug in a 6000rpm chip and hold the petal to the metal when shifting.
A carb with vacuum sec or an air valve like an edelbrock has to be power shifted to et best on a 4speed car.
You should be able to get 1.7? 60ft times. that in itself will get you into the 12's.
Install a wooden block under the clutch pedal so you do not have to go to the floor with the clutch petal during the shift. You only need to release the torque from the driveline. This will speed up your shift and help you avoid missed/shifts.

Experiment with different amounts of ignition timing.
start at 29 deg and work up to 36. What ever gives the best Et/MPH.
Uncork the exhaust, see how the car reacts.
You could replace the head gaskets with thinner .015" shim head gaskets and raise the cr to right near 10:1. As long as your pistons do not come all the way to the top of the block deck at TDC ("0 decked block") you be fine.
You can move the camshaft (advance/retard it)
i'd try advanceing it 4 more degrees to a 102 intake c/L and see how the car reacts. Make one change at a time. let the car tell you what it wants. (timeslip)
You'll need basic traction first thou.

 

What rpm is the motor at (in 4th gear) when you cross the finish line @104-105MPH? Should be real close to 6000rpm.
If not, you need more rear gear.

 

i finish in 4th at aroudn 5600rpm and my tires are 25 inch street tires on 15 inch rims, I was going to get a set of BF Goodrich drag radials for the 16in formula rims I have and they are 26.1 inch tall, so that shoudl be good right??