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Uh oh...these codes are no good.. dead MAF? :-/

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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 11:11 AM
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Uh oh...these codes are no good.. dead MAF? :-/

Alright, two nights ago I ripped all of my AC stuff out and disconnected all of the sensors and connectors related to AC. I started my car up and there was an SES, but I figured it was probably just something to do with the air conditioning being gone (which I didn't think SHOULD cause a code, but nothing else made sense to me really). Then yesterday upon starting my car a few times it wanted to die, and I started getting a bit worried again. Then, this morning when I was laying there in bed when I woke up, I was thinking for a second and then all of a sudden I was like "I didn't plug the MAF sensor back in!" So I finish waking up, run outside, and plug hte MAF sensor in. Now I'm still getting an SES light and my car is running VERY rough at idle. The car actually tries to die it seems like.

When I checked the codes I got 12, 33, and 36. Then I realized 12 is normal for the "blink-test". Anyways, 33 is "High voltage (low vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)". And 36 is "Burn off at mass air flow sensor OR
Problem in transmission shift OR
Fault in direct ignition system OR
Missing pulses in electronic spark timing signal".

Could running the car for a few days without the MAF sensor somehow ruin the MAF sensor? It doesn't make much sense to me because I would think it would just act as if the car were turned off (i.e. not affect the MAF sensor). I have both MAF screens intact as well as the air filter so I don't see how anything really could have damaged it anyways.

What does "Burn off at mass air flow sensor" mean? Does that mean somehow I cooked my MAF? That'd not be very good at all..
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 11:31 AM
  #2  
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Re: Uh oh...these codes are no good.. dead MAF? :-/

Originally posted by DuronClocker
Alright, two nights ago I ripped all of my AC stuff out and disconnected all of the sensors and connectors related to AC. I started my car up and there was an SES, but I figured it was probably just something to do with the air conditioning being gone (which I didn't think SHOULD cause a code, but nothing else made sense to me really). Then yesterday upon starting my car a few times it wanted to die, and I started getting a bit worried again. Then, this morning when I was laying there in bed when I woke up, I was thinking for a second and then all of a sudden I was like "I didn't plug the MAF sensor back in!" So I finish waking up, run outside, and plug hte MAF sensor in. Now I'm still getting an SES light and my car is running VERY rough at idle. The car actually tries to die it seems like.

When I checked the codes I got 12, 33, and 36. Then I realized 12 is normal for the "blink-test". Anyways, 33 is "High voltage (low vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)". And 36 is "Burn off at mass air flow sensor OR
Problem in transmission shift OR
Fault in direct ignition system OR
Missing pulses in electronic spark timing signal".

Could running the car for a few days without the MAF sensor somehow ruin the MAF sensor? It doesn't make much sense to me because I would think it would just act as if the car were turned off (i.e. not affect the MAF sensor). I have both MAF screens intact as well as the air filter so I don't see how anything really could have damaged it anyways.

What does "Burn off at mass air flow sensor" mean? Does that mean somehow I cooked my MAF? That'd not be very good at all..
MAF systems are pretty flexible. It may be you ruined it but I doubt it. If its bad do a search here to make sure you get the right new one. Some MAF's wont work well (aftermarket ones). Other than that, disconnect the negative cable from the battery for about 2-5 minutes to reset the ECM. That will get rid of the codes. If they come back then you probably have a bad MAF.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 11:32 AM
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
I probably should have done a search first, but I was kind of in a panic to get answers quick, lol. Anyways, I got some ideas from searching, so I'm going to check all my connections and relays.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 11:57 AM
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Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
As if this makes much sense... I just cleared the codes on my car by disconnecting the battery for a few seconds. Now, no codes, and engine is running fine. Obviously I see why the codes would now be cleared. What I don't understand is why my car would run better now that I cleared the codes. Does the computer run the car differently if it has codes stored? I would think the codes would just be there to remind you there was an error with it, but it seems as when there is a code on there at all, the computer acts like the problem for that code is always there...even when its not. I say this because my car idles fine now and doesn't want to die anymore.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 01:37 PM
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Originally posted by DuronClocker
As if this makes much sense... I just cleared the codes on my car by disconnecting the battery for a few seconds. Now, no codes, and engine is running fine. Obviously I see why the codes would now be cleared. What I don't understand is why my car would run better now that I cleared the codes. Does the computer run the car differently if it has codes stored? I would think the codes would just be there to remind you there was an error with it, but it seems as when there is a code on there at all, the computer acts like the problem for that code is always there...even when its not. I say this because my car idles fine now and doesn't want to die anymore.
I believe you are correct. When the car throws a code it is because it senses something is wrong and then tries to make adjustments.
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