I think my CTS is going out the window..Or is it like a fuel pump, meaning, it works or it doesn't..Most of the time the car wants to die on cold start up's and it is running a little rich. It gets not so good economy and the back bumper is always carbon-y..but I also have an oil leak that I think is atribbuting to that as well..It pop's a good but on deaccel too.. It doesn't seem to have completely failed though..are there any other symptoms for me to be watching out for? This is a stupid question..but can a "rich" mixture of coolant/water cause it to go bad sooner? Thanks alot guys..

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• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
• Dual Friction Stage III Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• AC Delco Rapid Fire Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Gutted Air Box
• Best Maryland (40 degrees) E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 mile MPH 93.91
• Best Florida (80 degrees) E/T 14.88, 60' 2.163, 1/8th mile 9.540, 1/4 mile MPH 92.74
• Best 60' 2.163(Florida)
• TPiS AFPR set to 42psi using Accel Fuel Pressure Gauge (Installed after Maryland run)
• Aluminum Driveshaft (Installed after Maryland run)

 

Yarn,

Yes, an analog sensor can fail in a manner thaqt will allow it to provide a correct resistance above or below a given point.

For instance, the CTS could read 130°F temperature with dead-cold coolant. Once the coolant reaches 130°, the sensor would report the correct resistances all the way up to 285°F (maximum). The opposite could also be true. A poor ground or connection (either internal to the sensor or external) could prevent the resistance from dropping below a given point, causing a constant "cold" reading. It can stick just like a thermostat can stick.

As for the coolant concentration affecting the life of the sensor, I fail to understand how a sensor would be affected unless it was already leaking internally. The sensor is essentially a Bourdon element connected to a resistance bridge.

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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

This is what I wanted..A responce that I could consider beneficial..So is there a way that I could test the sensor? I am assuming the IAT is not the culprit.. Thanks alot Vader..

------------------

• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
• Dual Friction Stage III Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• AC Delco Rapid Fire Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Gutted Air Box
• Best Maryland (40 degrees) E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 mile MPH 93.91
• Best Florida (80 degrees) E/T 14.88, 60' 2.163, 1/8th mile 9.540, 1/4 mile MPH 92.74
• Best 60' 2.163(Florida)
• TPiS AFPR set to 42psi using Accel Fuel Pressure Gauge (Installed after Maryland run)
• Aluminum Driveshaft (Installed after Maryland run)

 

Yes, scan tool is the easiest. But you could also stick it in a bucket of water with a GOOD thermometer and measure the resistance. Just heat the water and note the resistance to the temperature posted in the table below, curteosy of Vader.

Alternatively, if you have your suspicions and the CTS is old, why not just replace it? Its not very expensive and, personally, my time is more valuable than the cost of replacing the sensor.





[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited April 13, 2001).]