anyone here who has done a cam swap please give me some helpful hints. swaping out L69 cam for comp cam 477/480 xtreme energy

 

I did an in car cam swap in my 87 IROC 350 2 months ago. You have to pull out the fans, radiator,AC condenser (if equipped), and those 2 metal braces in front of the radiator to have enough room to slide out the old cam and put the new one in. You don't have to remove any body panels, at least not on my car.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 HOT Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

Soon to Come: 7.625" 10 Bolt with 3.42s and Accel TPI Intake Base

 

I did mine with the motor in, only to pull the motor later (DOH!). Front accesories need to be pulled to either side, water pump, fans and radiator need to be removed. A/C condensor and supports can be moved to the side.

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Bob '89 Ram Air Formula 350
Last(lost)Member of the Elusive Great Lakes Crew
My car's homepage

 

if you don't have a manual you ought to buy one before you start the swap. i'm sure none of the manuals will say to remove the fender to change a cam.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

I'm assuming you're talking about comp cams XE268H? That's a whole lot of cam for a 305 - also, your stock vavle springs are only rated to .47 which is really pushing it with .477/.480 lift. If you haven't bought it yet I'd go with the XE250H or XE256H.

 

i know it is pushing it, thats why i have replaced the springs, rocker arms, and pushrods.
from what i have read in many posts you see no benefits from changing the cam and not at least modifing the heads to accomodate them and the engine damage factor. thank you for your concern.

 

one more question what kind of special pullers do i need to remove the harmonic balancer and crankshaft? it says in the haynes book that i need special tools to remove and install the harmonic balancer.
whats the benefit of an aftermarket balancer?

 

you need a puller for the balancer, i believe they call them a flange type puller and you'll need an installation tool. if you change the crank gear you'll need a common jaw type puller also.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

I agree with Dan. I removed exactly the same items on my 82-305 to put in a Comp Cams K-kit. In fact I am still putting my car back together.
You don't have to remove any body panels.
As for the harmonic balancer puller, they sell them identified as such at most auto parts stores or Sears.

You will need two Grade 8 bolts of the proper length and thread pitch to screw into the balancer. Be sure you protect the threads on the end of the crank, or you will have big problems later. A shop manual or a small block rebuild manual is almost a must unless you have a lot of experience.
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