So I just purchased a 88 IROC (305 HO, 5-spd) a few days ago and I have a few extra $$ to spend. The car at this time is bone stock, what gives the best bang for the buck upgrade? Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, headers, chip, cam?

Please shoot me your ideas, at this moment I'm thinking the first thing to add is headers. What are the proven, best headers to add to 3rd gens? What are you opinions on what I should do to modify?

Thanks!

 

The very first thing that you should do...and i am regretting not doing it, is to get you a good set of subframe connectors. That should be the first mod done to any f-body.

 

yes, i agree...SFC...i wish i did that but after that headers and exhaust

 

Sfc's good catback, with high flow cat then Holley stealth ram intake!!

 

Ok sub frame connectors are high on my list, but after some power upgrades... I suppose I should have specified performance upgrades. I want to get more torque/horsepower. I can hold my own when lining up against my buddies mustang off the line, but then he blows me away... mind you his car is done - chip, headers, intake, full exhaust, etc. It is also a convertible so it shouldn't take much to kick his ***!

 

For performance upgrades, start with the COMPLETE exhaust. Headers, high flow cat, high quality cat back. After that, see how much you have left over, then determine how fast you want to go.

 

thanks Stekman. Starting with a complete exhaust is what I had in mind, I was just curious if they was another great 'bang for the buck' improvment like an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (over-rated?)

So I'll start with headers first, which ones on this board is the most popular? Full length or shorties, what brand?

I'd like to take out as much guess work as possible and buying some headers that are proven to perform, not purchasing a few sets before determining which ones perform the best.

After headers I'll replace the rest of the exhaust - high flow cat and free flowing muffler.

 

Not to be an *** but now go to the exhaust board and do some searching. There are even some stickies at the top of the page that has all the info you need.

 

I'd take that money and do a full tuneup on the car before spending it on anything else.

And by full tuneup, I mean replacing the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, changing the engine oil and filter, replacing the air filter/PCV breather, replacing the PCV valve, lubing the suspension, changing the coolant, radiator cap, thermostat and replacing various coolant hoses, replacing the belt(s), setting the engine timing, checking and fixing vacuum leaks and adding power steering and brake fluid if necessary. Make sure you check the carburetor mounting bolt torque as well, as they can come loose from years of rattling and shaking of the engine. While you're at it, check the carb choke as well. I almost forgot to mention changing the fuel filter, fuel lines (if needed) and fuel tank cap.

Further tune up procedures include checking the EGR system and making sure it works properly, as well as the EFE and THERMAC systems. Replace the filter underneath the EVAP canister as well (if applicable).

If you need it, also get an alignment and do some brake work. Make sure you repack the wheel bearings as well.

If you do all of this, your car will be running as good as it did when it drove off the dealer lot (possibly even better). It ain't cheap though, so that's what I would use my money on before modding the car.

If I forgot anything, please let me know.

 

Test.

 

Thanks Nate, that is really great advice. Excellent advice, something that should be done with any used vehicle.

I am not a slouch when it comes to car maintainence, especially when I purchase a used car. I've already done my own multi-point inspection and replaced things that required replacing, changed fluids, etc.

I found several things didn't need to be replaced like gas cap and rad cap simply because the previous owner was fairly meticulous. This car has had its rad replaced with a new cap and the gas cap has been replaced with one that locks. The PVC valve is one thing that I didn't think to check, I suppose I can blow through it and see if the ball is clogged.

I have an appointment on Tuesday to replace the rear wheel bearings. I would be a job that I'd normally tackle on my own and take the pieces in to have the old bearings pressed out and the new ones pressed in, however as I'm sure you know, the bearings on this car are inside the rear diff. I'm taking it into the local shop which will give it a full inspection, change the fluid (which is a dark colour), and check the play on the cv joint on the driveshaft. The brakes have already been replaced all the way around, but while it is in the shop they're going to replace a sticking caliper on the front left which is causing the car to pull under braking.

Thanks again for the great advice, it was a good check list to see what I've missed. One thing you've missed, and very important I think, is getting the front end checked; tie rods, ball joints, etc plus cv joints on the drivetrain.

Next, however, will be a complete exhaust system; headers back.

Thanks again

 

NITROUS