I'm at a loss here. I replaced my aging starter with a mini and it was working fine for about three months. It finally decided to let heat soak set in and not start when hot.

Good thing it decided to quit while I was with my mechanic.

Anyway, I have a new one in and the same thing is happening.

My question is, why does this happen? What actually stops the starter from engaging, the solenoid?

Could this be an electrical problem? Something like not enough juice to overcome a hot starter?

Thanks,

Scott

 

You will get more answers in the TECH/GENERAL ENGINE forum. moving

 

Heat soak is usually an issue with the factory starters minute ability to crank the engine when it is warm, not normally an issue with aftermarket high-torque gear reduction motors.

When the engine is warm, it is more willing (easier) to fire on all cylinders. When the cylinder fires while the motor is still spinning, perhaps somewhat due to static timing, the cylinder pressure is too much and the starter motor cannot overcome it and things get deadlocked. It may or may not have something/anything to do with the starter motors components "swelling" and losing its cranking efficiency.

What starter motor is it? Since its a reoccurance, perhaps your initial static timing has slipped. Have you tried resetting the base timing?

 

heat soak= weak starter, you need another/better starter

 

I have the same problem but am Yet to loose a starter. I have a 10:5:1 383 with a rebuilt autozone starter and when cold fires right up but after driving with the slp 1 3/4 headers it gets slower but keeps turning. I was thinking of getting a wrap for it or a heat shield.

 

Base timing on the motor?

Whatever the answer, I don't think that's it.

With the stock starter, all you would hear was a "click"

With the mini starter, you could hear the starter gear spin but the solenoid wouldn't kick it out.
(Actually, I'm assuming that's how it works)

The starter now is a POS emergency one from pep boys and it's doing the same thing as the stock starter.

Somebody said that I might not be getting enough juice to the starter and frying the internal connectors to the point were the electricity can't jump the gap anymore ( if that makes sence ).

 

dont waste your time. i got very tired of getting stranded and replacing starters and solenoids. ministarter is the only way to go.

 

Is the solenoid the actual point of failure?

If so, has anyone ever used a remote starter solenoid with minimum hassle and success?

Scott

 

there's a tech article giving a walk through for a remote solenoid.

do it.

the $25-$30 you'll spend in parts will be very worth the time spent.

up until i tore my car apart, i was running a remote solenoid with a starter of unknown origin (pulled it from my other car) and had absolutely zero problems.

 

Thanks for the info.