This morning my '91 Camaro (3.1, auto) started fine and I went to the bank, came home, and parked it in the driveway. About an hour later I tried to start it and now get nothing when I turn the key. Any ideas?

I'm in the process right now of trying to figure this out. Here's what I know:

The starter & solenoid is relatively new.
The starter does nothing when I turn the key (ie.- makes no sound).
All other electrical systems appear to be functioning properly.
I've tried 2 different ignition keys.
The car has VATS.
I've tried starting in park and in neutral.
I tried rocking the car and tapped the starter with a stick.

The most abnormal part about my car is that in order to remove the ignition key I have to press the button on the shifter. It has been like this for about 2 years. I would have been more concerned but have read (in other posts) about others who had the same problem.

So, I'm guessing I have an electrical problem. Ignition swich? Neutral safety switch? VATS? ...?

What kind of tests can I do to help discover the problem?

I have a multimeter and have the (although I have a hard time reading them) wiring diagrams in the Hayes & Chiltons manuals.

Any help, insight, or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Check the park/lock cable where it goes into the ignition switch under the dash.

 

Trickster, thanks for you input. I'll check the cable right now.

 

My key removal problem is now fixed. Thank you, Trickster. The Park Lock Cable #812 was not fully inserted into the steering column #816. Thank you.

I still have a problem with the car not starting.

 

I have a feeling that you will also have to adjust the ignition switch. Do you have a problem with the Security light staying on until you release the key or maybe not coming on at all? It should come on and go out after about 2 seconds when the key is turned.

 

Trickster, I edited my last post before I realized that you had already responded. Thanks again. You obviously know your stuff.

You are indeed correct again. The Security Light does not come on at all when I turn the key.

 

How can I adjust (or test) the ignition switch?

 

It is possible that you have a problem with the VATS since your keys resistance code is not being recognized by the VATS control module. Do you have two keys for the ignition on your car? Do this little test since you have a multimeter available. Set the meter to OHM's and measure the resistance on the keys pellet as shown in this picture and write it down. Next look under the dash and you will find a two wire harness that will be two white wires with an orange wrap. They will connect to another two wire harness that on your car should be a white/black and purple/white wire. On some cars they are white/black & purple/yellow. Disconnect that harness at the connector and put the key in the lock cylinder in the "OFF" position. Now take the multimeter still set to OHM's and measure the resistance value of the key through the two white wires and see if it is the same as the first reading. If it isn't, you have a broken wire on the lock cylinder inside the steering column. If it's the same, your prolem is elsewhere in the circuit.

 

Off subject from the ignition switch: In other "no start" posts it has been recommended to test the Starter Enable Relay by jumpering pins "A" & "E". My problem is that I can't even find the Starter Enable Relay.

The description I have is -

"It is located behind the left kick panel on the driver side. It has four wires going to it, on different year models the wire coloring will vary. There will be two wires coming off the ignition switch going to it at pin "C" & "E" and normally will be colored yellow. There will be a dark green/white wire going from pin "A" of the relay to pin "F" of the park/neutral switch. Pin "B" of the relay will be a light green or black/yellow wire and goes to pin "A3" of the VATS control module. Now that I have said all this and got you totally confused. You can test the starter enable relay by disconnecting it and jumpering pin "A" & "E" and trying to start the car. You can also check those two yellow wires at pin "C" & "E" for power with the key in the start position."

I've also read -

"Another area to check is pin "F" of the Park/Neutral switch to see if it is getting power from the starter enable relay when you turn the key."

I'm getting about 0.82 volts at pin "F" when the key is turned to the "Start" position. Is this a high enough voltage?

Thank for your help.

 

Sorry if I'm getting ahead of mysef. I'm doing what you suggested now.

 

Obviously you have found some of my other posts on the subject. The kick panel is located by the drivers left foot and has the hood release handle in it. The starter enable relay is located behind this panel and has four wires going to it. You should be getting battery (12 volts) voltage at pin "F" of the park/neutral switch. If the reading you have posted is correct, you are getting less than 1 volt at that pin. Nowhere near enough. However, before you go off chasing wires. Do the test I mentioned in my last post, it will help narrow things down considerably.

 

I measured infinite resistance through the two white wires with the key inserted. I wiggled the key around and never got anything other than infinite resistance.

 

Replace lock cylinder!!!!!!!! Or if possible repair broken wire on lock cylinder.

 

To go back off subject again: I did just find the Starter Enable Relay right where it should be but covered in sticky black tar stuff.

OK. Am I correct in assuming that you have diagnosed my "no start" problem as a broken wire on the lock cylinder that needs repaired or replaced.

 

Yes, if you are not getting the same resistance value through those white wires as you got off the key you have a broken wire on the lock cylinder. And don't worry about that sticky tar on the starter enable relay, it is a sealant.

 

Trickster, I thank you very, very much for your help tonight. This message board is a wonderful source of information and it could never happen without people like you taking the time & effort to help other people. I appreciate all that you've done and hope you have a good night. Thank you.

 

Would the "vats bypass with a resistor trick" be a viable temporary solution to this problem?

 

Yes if there are no other problems with the ignition switch under the dash besides the park/lock cable.

 

I'll report back when I get this fixed or otherwise. I can't thank you enough for your help. Good night.

 

Trickster was indeed 100% correct in diagnosing my "no start" problem.

I inserted a resistor across the white/black and purple/yellow(?) wires and the car started right up. In this case the resistor was my spare key. I went to radio shack and bought some regular resistors but haven't tried them yet.

This car is my daily driver and I'm thankful I can use it again.