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Comp just recommended my new cam...

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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 10:19 AM
  #1  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Comp just recommended my new cam...

first off heres what my setup will be:
383
10.5:1
Stealthram
Trickflow 23's
1.6rr's
eventully a t-56 and a 12 bolt w/3:73's

the guy at comp recommended this part no. 08-503-8 and he said that was 224/230 @ .050 and 536/542 lift with the 1.6rr's. that should be a hydraulic roller cam. i was thinknig maybe a little bigger cam with more lift but i still want this to be streetable. also, i couldnt find this cam in my dd2000 to compare any others, coul some1 help me get it on there?

whats everyones opinions with this cam?
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 11:23 AM
  #2  
masseyiroc's Avatar
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From: nova scotia,canada
Car: 87 irocz
Engine: 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 4.10
go to comp cams web site amd look up the part # you have under cam specs.then put your info into you dd200 as a custom cam.its not hard. that cam does seem a little on the small side.i have a 242/248@ .050 and .570 .576 lift with 1.5 rockers in my protopline headed 406.it doesnt even ilde that ruff and has good power all the way to 6000rpm. but then it is soild roller your after a hyd roller right.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 12:26 PM
  #3  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
That looks believable to me. Somebody, maybe jmatlock, has a combo about like that; in fact he's having to sell it right now, it's on the classifieds. PM him and see how he likes it.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 02:36 PM
  #4  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
yea i saw his but its not split duration and i still think comp shorted me a little. ive heard they tend to do that and i even told them i dont need it to be REALLY streetable so i might have to call back after i get some more opinions on what i should have. i was looking upwards of .570 lift
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 03:05 PM
  #5  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
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Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I could be wrong, but I don't think you gain anything on those particular heads, with really high lift. Obviously you want the lift to be as close as possible to their max flow lift for as much of the time as possible; but past a point, you gain nothing by increasing the lift, except making your valve train more expensive to build.

You don't have to go with their recommendation though; and calling them abck won't really accomplish anything. It's like, what are you expecting them to do, you say "I want more cam than what you recommended last time, with at least .570 lift" and they'll go "OK then we recommend x cam"? They said what they said for whatever reason, and to me, it largely passes the smell test for the application at hand; you may want more or less for your own reasons, and that's fine, you're perfectly entitled to buy whatever you want. No need to call them back for that.

I can definitely tell you though, if you go much bigger than that, your tuning difficulties will multiply rapidly. One thing that will help, is as you get to bigger and bigger cams, have it ground on a wider lobe separation (open the exhaust valve earlier). For instance if you go to the next step up which is the XR282HR, get it custom ground on 112° centers; if you go to the XR288HR, get it on 114° centers. I wouldn't go too much past that with that small of a motor and that restrictive of an intake, and try to tune EFI on it.

In fact, I have just such a cam laying around, that I'm never going to use for anything. I got it along with some other stuff, from somebody who had got it for something somewhat like what you're doing. Too small for anything I'm likely to do, and it's on a factory style roller (step-nose) core besides, I think. Brand new, or nearly so. I don't remember the specs off the top of my head though, but it's something about like a XR282 or 288 hyd roller on 112° or 114° separation.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 04:28 PM
  #6  
e-man's Avatar
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From: NJ
Car: 89 formula
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
CamarosRUS that cam is just a little bigger than the GM HOT cam Im running and my 383 idles almost like a stock 350 when I get the time and money Im getting the 230-236 X-treme cam Its better suited to a 383.

Last edited by e-man; Aug 16, 2004 at 04:33 PM.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 04:31 PM
  #7  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
No, it's ALOT bigger than the HOT cam, although the specs don't look all that much different.... it's the difference between a fat wide lobe that snaps the valve open and holds it there for quite awhile and then lets it snap shut, vs a stock type lobe that opens the valve slowly and it lazily gets to the peak and immediately turns around and lazily starts closing again. After all, the HOT cam is designed to work with those weenie factory springs, and the Comp ones REQUIRE real springs.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 04:43 PM
  #8  
e-man's Avatar
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From: NJ
Car: 89 formula
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Not to argue with you but if you go to http://www.camaroz28.com and look on the LT1 forumn alot of guys switched from the hot cam to the 224-230 and did not gain anything great.(thats why I used the HOT cam same performance less money)the guys using the 230-236 cam are getting much better #'s

Last edited by e-man; Aug 16, 2004 at 04:50 PM.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 04:57 PM
  #9  
scottland's Avatar
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350HO
Transmission: M4
the lt4 hot cam is 218/228 duration at .050 and with 1.6 rollers lift at .525/.525

so that cam is quite a bit bigger besides the tighter LSA

I don't understand why people hold the LT4 hot cam up on such a pedestal, sure it makes good power, but for most applications, there are better cam choices.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 05:16 PM
  #10  
e-man's Avatar
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From: NJ
Car: 89 formula
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
I not recommending the HOT cam at all I think its too small.And I dont think a cam with 6*intake and 2*exhaust is alot bigger cam the lift dont mean squat if the heads dont need it.Remember this is a 383 the 224-230 cam in a 383 will be like putting a ZZ4 cam in a 350.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 05:24 PM
  #11  
Stekman's Avatar
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
I like the thoughts of the 282hr with more of an EFI based valve timing.

On a side note, perhaps, also keep in mind, the HOT cam is designed to work on the factory ECM. Most of the cams in Comps catalog or any other reputable manufacturer is all ECM out the window. So, for a non-cc carbed engine, it may be on the small(er) side, but for an EFI engine such as the LTx, it's a pretty beefy cam.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 05:50 PM
  #12  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
alot of guys switched from the hot cam to the 224-230 and did not gain anything great
And what were they putting these cams into?

It's essential to take a look at the whole package. Take a small stock motor like a 350 and just jam a bigger cam in it with no tuning, sure you're not going to gain much.

On the other hand, take a motor with at least a little more inches, put heads on it that outflow stockers by 20%, and then stick a bigger cam in it, things might be a bit different.

Also, keep in mind, the HOT cam was designed to work well with a very slightly modified LT1, with a near-factory tune. In other words, it's exactly at home, when installed in that exact motor. We're not building a slightly modified LT1 here. You can't take anecdotal results from that setup and apply them across the board.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 07:21 PM
  #13  
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From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
IMHO if you have a very good flowing intake system from the air filter to the head, excellant flowing heads and a good flowing exhaust system from the head to the exhaust tip the cam is the least important.

In other words make the heads the restriction on the air flow. Example would be if your heads flow 250CFM you want your intake system to flow 275 CFM.

I would go with the Comp Cams recomendation and make darn sure the rest of the system was up to speed and I think you will be very happy with the results. Allen
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 09:32 PM
  #14  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
im glad everyones hopping in here. i was actually looking into the xr282hr but with more of efi valve timing. its bigger and would seem to fit the powerband my engines good for a little better. i know it doesnt mean a whole lot but dd2000 put me at a peak hp of 496 @ 6000 and tq at 489 @ 5500 with the 282 and 451 hp @ 5500 and 491 tq @ 4000 with the 276. more power defenitly with the 282 but the more i think about it the 276 would be a little more fun around town....
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 11:01 PM
  #15  
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Originally posted by CamarosRUS
im glad everyones hopping in here. i was actually looking into the xr282hr but with more of efi valve timing. its bigger and would seem to fit the powerband my engines good for a little better. i know it doesnt mean a whole lot but dd2000 put me at a peak hp of 496 @ 6000 and tq at 489 @ 5500 with the 282 and 451 hp @ 5500 and 491 tq @ 4000 with the 276. more power defenitly with the 282 but the more i think about it the 276 would be a little more fun around town....
Yup

There's the rub. How often are you running at 6000 rpm? Not often, eh?

For STREET performance, (which unfortunately includes sitting at red lights, grid lock, etc.), a little smaller than what you think is only reasonable is almost always the best bet. Some folks always like to go one step higher than the manufacturer recommends but safe is better than sorry
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 12:04 AM
  #16  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
i should be happy with a hopeful 450 NA hp anyway. ive always got N20 after that besides going with the cam he recommended will save me some cash from getting a custom grind

the only reason i am still a little hesitant because i know to make good horse power you have to match the cam with the heads and intake etc but it just seems this 276 cam wont flow correctly with my stealthram. anyone think otherwise?
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 08:20 AM
  #17  
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From: Danville, IN
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 Bolt, 3.42
I recently swapped cams, my old cam was similar to the one comp recommended for you. I was using a bullit custom grind cam hyd. roller 225/230 duration @.05, .525lift in my 383. It was very easy to drive on the street and very easy to tune. Power brakes worked fine, had about 12-14inches of vacuum at idle. The idle was pretty smooth but had a slight lope. In my opinion it was a great street/strip cam..especially if you do quite a bit of street driving. I ran a 12.02@113mph 1/4 mile with that cam, a great time for such a mild combination. You could probably go with a little more duration something in the 230/236 range and not run into any serious tuning issues but its always a balancing act..drivability vs. speed.
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