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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 07:28 PM
  #1  
z28kindaguy's Avatar
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From: Baltimore, MD
Car: 2004 Pontiac GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12
What is this? Picture included

This is the oil pressure sending unit right? Its leaking real bad and I need to know what to ask for at the parts store.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 07:30 PM
  #2  
Stekman's Avatar
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Yup. Depending on how many wires are coming out of it:

1 wire: sender (for gauge)
2 wires: switch (relay backup)
3 wires: combination switch/sender
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 07:38 PM
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
It is called the fuel pump/oil pressure switch. It is also the oil pressure sending unit as well. Not to confuse you by saying this but the two units were combined into one. When requesting one ask for the fuel pump/oil pressure switch and make sure the store gives you the correct item. It would probably make things go smoother if you carried a picture of it with you to avoid any confusion.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 08:23 PM
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88Camaro350's Avatar
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
They will probably try to give you a brass canister thing that goes on the intake manifold. Make sure they give you that one. I work at advance and most people have no clue what they need so they get the wrong sending unit.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 09:00 PM
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
you may want to open up the wire armor at the sending unit & check the insulation of the wiring, odds are the insulation is going too be in bad shape & you'll need a new pigtail. if the insulation is bad, when you replace the sending unit you'll start to have problems. if the insulation is good & doesn't need a pigtail, the wires at the sending unit need to be cleaned up anyway. either way, i would replace the wire armor as it will probably be quite brittle, & replacing it would be quicker & easier than cleaning the old armor.

Last edited by DENN_SHAH; Sep 4, 2004 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 09:07 PM
  #6  
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From: Whitehouse, Ohio
Car: 1987 IROCZ
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Yes, take it with you!
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 09:10 PM
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Bring it with you if possible and while there get something other than Fram to replace the oil filter.

(edit spelling - doh!)

Last edited by Red Devil; Sep 4, 2004 at 09:34 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 09:22 PM
  #8  
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Originally posted by Red Devil
\get something other than Fram to replace the oil filter.
Just wanted to make sure this was pointed out..........

Redundency is good when it comes to bad decisions.....
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 10:33 PM
  #9  
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
whats wrong with fram filters?
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 02:18 AM
  #10  
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http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...lterstudy.html
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 09:26 AM
  #11  
bobsroc's Avatar
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From: Whitehouse, Ohio
Car: 1987 IROCZ
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Thanks MDformula350, that was a nice overview of the filters out there, some info suprized me. Name brand recognition does not always mean better products as we can see, just down right good marketing to sell junk. Thanks again, opened my eye a little more.
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 11:35 AM
  #12  
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From: Baltimore, MD
Car: 2004 Pontiac GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12
Thanks for all the responses. The one they were tyring to give me looked different. I'll take it off and bring it to the store this time. I tried to show the guy the picture on my digi cam.. he said he can't tell cuz the screen is too small.

On Fram filters... had no idea that they were bad!

"This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow.

The telltale signs for a Fram Extra Guard are: It has 8 small holes for the oil inlet and a thin, cheap looking backplate, and is currently stamped with a "2Y". There are 5 very small crimps holding the gasket in place. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve. "

What filter do you guys recommend? :hail:

EDIT: Now that I think about it, about a few oil changes ago, I had one of these oil filters fail on me! I noticed my oil gauge fluttering at idle, and then sometimes would go to 0 pressure!

Thought it was the the oil pressure sending unit or my oil pump going bad... but changing the oil and filter fixed it.


Never buying Fram again!

Last edited by z28kindaguy; Sep 5, 2004 at 11:44 AM.
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