Could you get into the 11.00's with a stock bottom end with a 87 350 and would it be a good idea to change to a carb.

 

Welcome aboard.

Do you want to get into the "11's", or down to 11.00?

It's going to be very difficult to make the power, stripping down the car to nothing to save weight would be easier. The safety things you're going to have to use will add back weight. Making the power is one thing (will probably require a power adder of some kind), getting it to the ground is another. It probably won't be streetable when you're done. Probably only difference between carb and FI will be the amount of money spent to get there.

13's or high 12's is more of a reasonable goal (and still not particularly easy).

 

I pretty much have a stock 350 with hokker 2460 headers no ac no smog. i was thinking like low 12's beacuse i want to race next year and i want to have a pretty fast car but still be abel to drive on the street. I already took out the back seats no need for them and im going to go with true duals 2 1/2 inch pipe no cat with flowmaster 40 series mufflers. any sugestions on a good set of heads and cam combo. I also was thinking a 100-150 shot of nos just when i race.

 

How much have you to spend?

 

"Speed costs money. How fast do you wanna go?"

 

Psh...why put that drug statement in this thread how useless

 

I'm going to be building it as i go so money isnt a concern i want to get mid 12's all motor and run a 125 shot of nos or around that to get into the 11's

 

I've found that hotrodding old motors is living on borrowed time. Take an engine like that 350 TPI that's probably never seen the high side of 5000 RPMs and then start spinning it to 6000+ (thanks to a better cam/heads/intake/exhaust) and you'll pop something in the bottom end.

When it was new and had few miles on it you could probably do it without a lot of problems. But if you've got 80, 90, 100+ thousand on it, you'll break it pretty quick.

Not saying you shouldn't try, but if it breaks pretty quick don't get too upset.

 

I (respectfully) disagree w/the above statement. If the engine was built to handle "X" RPM when new, it'll handle it w/150,000 miles too. The parts don't get weaker over time, and the engine doesn't "get used to" making 230 horse and no more, causing it to ralph when you toss a cam in it.

IMO, if you mod an engine and it promptly breaks, you either mod'ed it pat it's original abilities, or there was already an issue there and trouble was coming, one way or the other.

If you owned a ZR1, and ran it if "Valet Mode" for 150,000 miles, then switched it to "power mode" and railed on it, would it break? No.

Like wise if you have an LG4, and at 180,000 miles, you slap a cam and headers in/on it, will it break? Not if it's well maintianed. I know. I did that very thing. Sold mine w/200k running perfect, to a FRIEND, who sold it w/230k to someone, still running great, but shifting at 5000 RPM instead of the original 4000.

As for getting 11's out of the stock bottom end, I don't think it was originally designed for that level of power, and it would break, IMO.

 

True, however the bottom end was NOT built to see those RPMS so it doesnt really matter.

 

What bottom end and what RPM are you talking about, D.A.?

 

87, 350, and 6500plus rpm which im sure hell c if he wants to see 11s.

 

10-4. I agree.

 

Traxion on here is running something like 11.7 on his stock L98 bottom end. That being said, he has a great combo and I am sure has spent tons of time, effort and money to get it there.

For each person that is able to do that, I am sure there are several that have tried to push the stock short block that far and have had it bite them in the ***.

Getting into the 11s won't happen overnight unless you spend lots of money OR run something that isn't going to last (ie. big nitrous shot on stock bottom end).

Do some reading on this board...there are tons of old threads here where guys discuss combos that have worked and not worked for them. Find out what you'd need to run 14s, 13s, 12s, and then 11s.

Trevor

 

I always respect your opinions tom, because I have read many threads you commented on, but I dont agree with this at all. When you assume normal wear and tear (bearings, rings, etc) an engine with 150K is not going to handle it as well as a new engine.