I have heard people suggest using solid lifters on a hydraulic grind (only in certain circumstances). How does this affect the cam (how does it behave compaired to if it had the hydraulic lifters)?

Also if I were to run an LT-4 Hotcam with solid roller lifters, would it be more radical or less? Has any one done this?

My car is only driven 500 to 1000 miles a year and I want to switch to a solid roller, but I don't want any more lift than the Hotcam has. I want to keep it around .500 to .540, and my usable rpm from 2000 to 6000.

I do not want to use hydraulic fifters period, no matter what cam I use. (I need to have somthing to do on the car when the wife and kids are driving me nuts, lol!)

I also noticed that solid lifter cams have a lot more duration @ .050 than hydraulic cams for the same rpm band. Why is this so different?

I have never messed around with solid lifter cams and have never really looked into them untill now, so if any of these questions are nonsense, I apologize now.

 

I'm not too sure about the solids on the hotcam, I'm waiting to hear what the other guys say. But here are some other options if you just gotta have solids:

a) Order a custom solid roller profile from Comp or Crane, there are a lot of profiles that aren't shown in the catalog. You could get one that's to hotcam specs.

b) Have a cam reground by Howards to a solid profile. It might not last as long as a new cam would, but it's only $100 and it seems like it would b an interesting experiment.
If you decide to try out a regrind, an old stock cam could probably be found for free. Guys will say don't get a regrind, but it seems like if you keep things in the proper perspective and just look at it as expendable, there wouldn't be any harm in it. I called Howards one time and asked about their roller regrinds, and the guy said they hold up better than a flat tappet regrind does.

 

My T/A is so not a daily driver, so I am not worried about the cam wearing out fast. I wouldn't mind trying the Howard's cam, do they have a website? If not can you gimmie their #?

 

I found them.

 

If you decide to get a regrind, I'll give you $100 (maybe more) for the hotcam and I'll send you a core to grind if you need one.

 

Called Howards, They said that if I was to run a hydraulic cam with solid lifters I would have to be concerned with ramp rates being too agressive. I do not beleive that with a GM cam this would be an issue. However they have a custom grind that he suggested, and that would be a new cam for $239.00. He said it would work fine with my combo and give the power I am looking for in the rpm band I am looking for. I asked about a regrind and he said not for this grind.

It was Grind # R222/335 for intake
and Grind # R232/335 for Ex.

I don't know what that means but it looks like the 222 and 232 would be duration at .050 and the larger #'s would be advertized duration.

 

I have not bought the Hotcam yet. Not sure at this point what I am going to do. The car is getting the boddy redone now at a friends place and I will not be getting it back till after X-mass as he is doing it on the side, and he it tearing off the front and rear nose, replacing both rear quarters, and completely stripping the car. Going to take a while, but this is the time to research my cam.

 

It looks like it would be 222 in/232 ex @.050 with .335 lobe lift.
.335 x 1.5 = .502 lift

Pretty short duration for a solid roller, but that's what you were looking for.

 

Yup.

I do have the 1.6 to one rockers and that will still be sane since my springs are good to .600. It would be .536.

 

After much searching I found the answer I needed.

Its,

"Not unless you are an expert at setting lash and totaly understand what lash is and how it works in relation to ramp tmes."

Which I don't know now, and will learn, but not so that I can botch my motor.

I am going with the mild Howards solid grind.

 

That would be my suggestion.
I don't think that there's a person alive on the planet who could tell you what the right lash would be for a hotcam with solid rollers.
I think it would have crossed the line from, "avoiding your family" to "neglecting your family"

 

Stay away from crossbreading cams and lifters that arent designed for eachother.

In a word, yes, you can run solid roller lifters on a hydra roller cam. The resons and situations for doing such have nothing to do with what you are going to do with your buildup.

What you need to do is look at Crane Cams. They have some awfull nice lobes that are designated 'SOLID STREET ROLLER'.

Look into them, I just stuffed one into a 383 motor.

Billet cams, and top quality.

Check em out my friend.

 

im considering this cam for pretty much the same reasons, i like the rev response of solid rollers, but want it streetable
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=40&y=11

 

What is the duration @ .050 and the LSA?


I myself would not run much more than 235-245* for a solid cam on the sreet. But that is more a matter of personal choice.

I wanted to be able to just get in the car start it and go and have it behave well while cruizing in traffic. I was not really shooting for a certain HP number. I was more into the sound of the idle (a little lopey), good vac. (around 15 to 18"), and good throttle response. I figured that if I could get those three things where I wanted them and the rest of the car was ballanced (traction, shift kit, gear etc.), it would be quick enough for the girl I go out with.

That is why I chose the Comp 282S, it appeared to be a cam with a lopey idle and good throttle responce that would pull around 15" at idle (I get 15-16). Its not a roller because I didn't have the cash for a roller at the time I made the purchase. I was low on cash and there was no roller cam that I could find that was down in the 235-245* range @ .050 that had only .500 lift. I didn't want to run any more than .535 lift because I was worried about piston to valve clearence. I found out later that it was not an issue on my engine, I have .400 clearence at TDC because the dome pistons I used had a large releif.

 

Found it.

Advertised Duration IN/EX: 282/290
Duration @.050 IN/EX: 224/232
Gross Valve Lift IN/EX: .502"/.502"
Lobe Sep Angle / Intake Ctr Line: 112/108
Valve Lash IN/EX: .022"/.024"
RPM Range: 2800-6600
Converter: 2400-2800 rpm

Not too streetable for a daily driver IMO. But I would consider it for my T/A since it is just a cruizer for nice weekends.

I ended up with the flat tappet solid cam because of cost. But then I was able to run the Howard's Direct Lube Solid Racing Lifters. They have a .021 hole burned into the flat of the lifter to the oil supply to lube the face of the lifter and the cam lobe. Figured this would help with the break in procedure since I already had one Comp Cam go flat.