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press in studs suck

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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 08:08 PM
  #1  
Jonhock's Avatar
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press in studs suck

everything was fine when i broke in the cam except i just need to readjust the valves. today i got up early and adjusted the valves and they were loose again soon after.
THEY PULLED THE F...ING PRESS IN STUDS OUT OF THE BRAND NEW HEADS
what do you guys think is the best and most practical fix for this. i know i obviously need screw in studs but what is the easiest way of doing them and if its possible with the heads on the car. The guy at the speed shop said i need to use heili coils with the new 7/16 screw in studs. I dont feel to good about using 16 heili coils to hold in my rocker studs on my brand new engine.
im using a flat tappet hydraulic cam 216*int 228*exh .453"int .480"exh. with lt1 valve springs that i believe i measured at 90 pounds of seat pressure. I thought that the press in studs would be able to handle this.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 08:48 PM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
best thing to do would be pull the heads and have them machined for screw in studs. 2nd best thing would be to use some "repair" type screw in studs that don't require pulling the head or milling.
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 05:17 AM
  #3  
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My vote goes for doing things the right way, and pulling the heads. Take them in and get screw in studs. You could also try pinning the studs, once you get the heads off of the car.
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 08:54 PM
  #4  
THEGENERAL's Avatar
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
yeah its cheaper to have them pinned but not necessarily better...

i had to do this to a damn autozone engine did the same thing yours did .....it was a 350 longblock i purchased at autozone the first one i took the whole engine out and took back and got a complete replacement the second time in two days this happened i called them up and they payed the labor and parts to have the heads removed and studs drilled and pinned ....never had a problem out of them after that ......i put well over 50,000 on the engine before i sold the car ...
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Old Oct 4, 2004 | 06:44 PM
  #5  
Jonhock's Avatar
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i found out what happened.
i didn't even check this. Im running lt1 springs and the dampners are hitting the bottom locator on the vortec heads and binding up. this sucks cause when i checked for clearance with the springs off the heads i didn't take this into effect.
Did anybody else run into this problem when using lt1 springs with vortec heads.
thanks
jon
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Old Oct 4, 2004 | 07:10 PM
  #6  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Everybody runs into it, no matter what springs they use. It's not a function of the springs. It's a well-known limitation of Vortec heads. It's been discussed in excruciating detail what the limit is. In fact I posted a link not a week ago to a post on another Chevy board where the subject came up, and somebody measured a set. Do a search on my userID and the word "measured" over the last 2 weeks, you'll find it for sure.

One of those details that makes them less than ideal, in their out-of-the-box condition, for performance use.
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Old Oct 4, 2004 | 08:50 PM
  #7  
Jonhock's Avatar
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thanks alot. would have helped to know that before.
This just never came across during my extensive research about these heads.
Ill admit i guess it was a move where i just wasn't thinking about that.
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Old Oct 5, 2004 | 06:18 AM
  #8  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Dude..... I went and searched; the link in question, was in answer to your own post.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=261506

Sorry you got bit by it; but, it's pretty commonplace.

Not much to do now, except pull the heads off, get the stud damage repaired, and have the guides cut down while they're in the shop.
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