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harmonic balancer...

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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:21 PM
  #1  
thunderstick's Avatar
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From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
harmonic balancer...

so how many of you guys out there beat that thing on to the crank... not literally, but use a smack hammer to get it most of the way on, then draw it on the rest of the way with the bolt?
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:25 PM
  #2  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
None that take the time to buy or borrow the proper tool for installing it.

There was a time when the damper was a press fit with no tapped hole in the snout to assist the process. No excuse these days.
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:54 PM
  #3  
Stekman's Avatar
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Yea, go to Autozone. They have that loan-a-tool program. It's a great thing for the weekend wrencher who doesn't need all those specialty tools but once a year or so.
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Old Oct 30, 2004 | 12:09 AM
  #4  
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
you mean a block of wood and a 5# mini sledge isnt the correct way to install it ????

J/K
yeah autozone has a hell of a deal on those tool loans and if you decide to keep it then you dont have to return it its paid for .....nice deal really
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Old Oct 30, 2004 | 12:09 PM
  #5  
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Or you can visit your local hardware store, get a 5" length of 7/16-20 threaded rod, a couple nuts, and a washer (all for about $3) and have the correct installer.
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Old Oct 30, 2004 | 01:49 PM
  #6  
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
That would work.

You NEED a installation tool though. And removal but I am assuming you already have that since it is off.

People always say "use the bolt" buddy tried that....stripped all the threads out of his brand new GM crate engine. Now it is tapped for a bigger bolt.
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Old Oct 30, 2004 | 10:00 PM
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Should you use an installer, yes.

I havent used one in probably 3 years. It may not be safe, it may not be right, but I have never had one strip on me, ever. I couldnt begin to count how many I have installed this way too.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 10:49 AM
  #8  
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
Originally posted by 88Camaro350
That would work.

You NEED a installation tool though. And removal but I am assuming you already have that since it is off.

People always say "use the bolt" buddy tried that....stripped all the threads out of his brand new GM crate engine. Now it is tapped for a bigger bolt.
ive used the bolt and washer method for years and never had a problem with it......but i have heard of people having this happen...damn that sucks...

but when autozone rents tools now i guess its pointless to do this ...LMAO
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 08:56 AM
  #9  
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From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
my balancer isn't permanently installed yet, just most of the way. i seated it on there and smacked it a few times and put the bolt in just to keep it in place for now so i could use it to roll the engine over. i'll get the tool and make sure it's seated on there all the way before i put the pulley on and final torque it.

KAM
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 11:20 AM
  #10  
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by Vader
Or you can visit your local hardware store, get a 5" length of 7/16-20 threaded rod, a couple nuts, and a washer (all for about $3) and have the correct installer.
I added a $4 roller bearing from the strip mall Sears Hardware to mine, makes turning the nut a breeze.

Hardened washer from an ARP balancer bolt kit, that bearing, and the big nut is the way to go for sure-thing no stress balancer installation. Just pulls that sucker right into place nice 'n smooth.

Now if only finding 16mm x 2.0mm threaded rod for my LS1 had been as easy...
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