so, i am wondering if anyone has any little tricks to get this sucker on WITHOUT ripping the engine out....i know some have done it....i have been trying for literally two days.....

headers are off, y pipe is off, tranny cross member is off, engine is jacked up about 4 inches before the bell of the tranny hits the tunnel. i have like...damn near 3 millimeters that i need before the new pan will go on... (i bent the edges of the old pan to get it out)

This crap reminds me of the ring and pinion dance when i did my first gear swap.

so im just wondering who has accomplished this and how, this is taking patheticly long. i just dont have the means of pulling the engine any time this week and well, my car is sitting here ....with no pan now.....

so post it! or drop me a line on AOL if no one feels liek clogging the boards with this (staticVertUhGo on aol.)

Ty

 

anyone??? .............. anyone ??? cmon someone has to have SOME idea......disconnect the tranny and slide it back 1 inch or pull the engine forward 1 inch?

my problem is....the pan needs like 1/4 inch to be able to clear the flywheel......the higher i jack up the engine , the more potential i have to bend the crank and or damage the balancer due to the bellhousing of the tranny wedging against the tunnel........even more so....the higher i jack the engine up,...the more it and the tranny walk towards the radiator....then i Definatly cant clear the K member/flywheel.

now.....ive debated on pulling off the flywheel....but thats no kinds of fun, every flywheel ive ever removed was WELL stuck on there, and rounded off 2 or more bolts trying to break themn suckers loose.

Bening the pan lips? almost did this.....for .000001 seconds, i considered it.

Also...

ANYONE KNOW A GOOD WAY TO EXTRACT BOLTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

nice lil bolt broke off in the header nut.....

Has about 2 mm of metal sticking out on one side, none on the other.....tried pipe wrenches.....heating it....killing 11 drill bits trying to drill it......Vise grips...liquid wrench....

Debating on cutting the entire nut off the flange and just using a lock nut...prolly what ill HAVE to do....


Anyways.....HELP....

 

Only way I was able to do it with full engine was disconnect tranny and take off flywheel and lift motor up, then I was able to remove it. Other then that

 

Mine came out without too much trouble. It was a 2 peice seal 350. Just disconnected the motor mounts and lifted it up. Didn't have to disconnect the trans or anything.

I say just try lifting the motor a little more.

 

thats what i was afraid of......i dont like disconnecting large heavy objects being supported by two jacks while my face is 2 inches from the bottom of those objects. ...... this is going to lead to me slapping together my 350 and throwing it in the car.....if i have to pull the 305 out to put a oil pan on...to hell with putting a 305 back in.

 

perhaps my flaw was unhooking the tranny mounts to begin with.....i just naturally assumed the upward force on the front of the engine could potentially damage the crossmember and trany mount

I started this project with a damaged oil pan, now due to all this crap, i have a bolt broke of fin a header, various broke wires , a nice puddle of tranny fluid from there the drive shaft slipped out. a broken tensioner.....and a possibly damaged crank and balancer.

 

Just disconnect the engine mounts. You can rent an engine hoist to lift it with, its not expensive.

 

I did this, on my 2nd time right now. For oil pump first time, so i thought Got the engine all tucked together again and still no oil pressure, and noticed knocking, stayed up all night and took the oil pan off again.

You shouldnt have needed to loosened your tranny mount at all, I didnt. In fact that is probably why your oil pan wont come off, it is allowing the engine to move back a little ways. It sounds like you've got a nice little mess going on there

Just deal with those little messes with the tranny and be on your way. Some people think it's extremely hard to take the oil pan off, personally I'd rather take the oil pan off, than try to disconnect the tranny from the engine in order to take the motor out lol.

You arent on AIM right now btw, my AIM name is F86Offspring if you need advice or anything.

 

Just keep jacking it up until you hear a crunch sound from the back of the engine, probably the wiring harness, then jack it up another half inch and it'll fit no problem. Just pretend you dont hear anything

 

yeah, like i said.....the tranny being disconnected is prolly my problem, and ironically, i thought thatd make things easier for sure....ive been playing hell with this....then again anything thats easy on other cars, is impossible on my own for some reason.

if i were doing this on a frends car, it wouldnt of taken more than 2 hours heh

 

well.....bolted the tranny mounts back up, cross member.....grabber the jack and like 9 blocks of wood.... (drilled a hole thru all the wood and put a foot long bolt thru them to keep them stable) ...Jacked the engine up to where i felt cvomfy with it....then put 4 more pumps onto it....rolled under that car.....pan needed 1 MM!!!!!!! thats it!!!! i said to hell with this.....donkey ]punched the back of the pan and it slid in...... Brute force hahaha

now lets see if i can get the gasket in now.. didnt wanna have the gasket just flopping around while i was jamming a pan in there.....end up runing a 30 dollar gasket...

 

How about turning the engine over? It worked on a co-workers 85 IROC. Same dilemma too, nearly out, and just needed another 1/2" or so. Spun the engine over a little and the pan cleared the counterweights on the crank. Pan pulled right out.

 

It's no small wonder every third gen I see in the yards are beat to ****. SO you'll beat up the pan yet complain about ruining the gasket?

 

man that was so long ago it isnt even funny, secondly, the gasket cost MORE than the oil pan itself. im not even sure where you were trying to go with this?? most people have a point to make, you.....no point....just senseless ranting......wasting 12 seconds of my life by reading that and replying to this.

 

When you place the timing mark on the balancer in the 6 oclock position, it puts the crank throws up in the engine. The service manual will tell you this.

 

haha, yeah, pretty much. Glad it worked out... I'm struggling with my own right now... I think the Donley punch part is what had me laughing and saying WTF.