Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

I still can't figure out this problem. The timing set I got for my 383 isn't working right on my new engine. When I tighten the cam gear down all the way it seats against the cam locking plate and won't turn. I'm pretty sure I have the right cam plate, because I think there are only two options...(wide bolts and narrower bolts). The timing set was originally ordered for an 87 350 Camaro block, but I put a hole in that block and now have a 4-bolt main truck block that I don't know the year of. It is a one-piece rear main seal and has the machine work for the roller cam although it wasn't roller when I bought it. I would think that if it has the holes for the cam plate and the bosses for the lifter spyder that there should be a correct cam plate and timing chain for a roller cam right?? Is my original timing set incorrect?? Is there possibly a third cam plate I'm not aware of?? PLEASE HELP!!!!!

------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

jms

iTrader: (1)

Paul, we told you in a previous post how to tell what year your block is. Look below where the distributor sits, on the back of the block (an area about 1 1/2" wide), just in front of where the transmission bolts to (the upper bolt holes) and there should be a set of numbers similar to, but not necessarily--- C 14 8.

Post those numbers here and we'll tell you what year the block came out.

Remember, the first letter represents the month (A=January, B=February, etc., etc.). C in the example stands for March.

The second set (14 in the example) stands for day of the month.

The third digit (in this sample) means the block was cast in a year ending in 8. 1958, 1968, 1978, 1988, or 1998.

Since your block is a one-piece rear seal, it would be (if we used the example) a 1988 or 1998 block, which then we would probably deduce it to be an '88 block, cast on March 14, 1988.

The year of your block is right there if you'll look.
jms

8Mike9

Not sure of there'sa 3rd option Paul, I don't think so...

I have a spare cam plate from a 2-bolt truck block, I could dig it out tomorrow and measure it for you.

Are you using a factory style roller cam, or standard hydraulic?

Matt87GTA

Check out my sig. I used the GM Performance Parts Single Roller HD Timing Set for Roller Cams (which is way bigger than those aftermarket double roller sets) and it came with both styles of cam plates (there are only two) and all required bolts. Only one of the plates will physically fit on your block. I installed the proper plate, installed my cam, torqued my bolts down, installed the timing set and I had the proper end play (not sure of the spec off hand but I can look it up if ya need it). I'm not really sure what the problem is but I would go back and double check your part numbers for proper engine block compatability.

Hope that helps.....

Laterzzzzzzzzzzzz

------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, Home-made cold air system w/ K+N cone and AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, 2300 stall.

"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 140Mph"

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

I'm not clear on where that number should be. Is it on the right side of the block where the distributor is or just on the back side of the block. Also is it facing up, or is it in the area that is covered by the tranny/bellhousing. Facing up on the back of the motor I have about a 9 digit number. On the back under the tranny/bellhousing area there are two different things. There is the number 626 and H-19. I'm guessing neither of these would help either.

Matt....what type of block did you use??



------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

Engineboy

Whats the long number??

------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"

jms

iTrader: (1)

Look straight down from where the distributor sits. The number should be between the top two bellhousing bolts, looking straight down from where the distributor sits. NOT underneath the bellhousing area.
!-Dist
>. .<
. .

. .
Not a good drawing.

SOMEBODY post a picture!
jms

jms

iTrader: (1)

Sorry guys. The drawing looked much better on my screen until I posted it.
jms

ColinOpseth

there are the best pics of my motor i could scrounge up, sorry...




------------------
Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

jms

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the pictures.

#2 shows the number I'm talking about.

If I read it correctly:

A 07 7

A=January

07=the 7th day

7=Since the crank is a one-piece seal and the cam is a roller set-up, 7 could stand for 1987 or 1997. It could easily be either. It could be an original 1987 block or possibly a Goodwrench replacement motor cast in 1997. Would need to see some other clues although I tend to believe its an '87 305 block.

Am I in the neighborhood?
jms

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

Ok well I'll have to look at it again tomorrow, but I think those numbers are unreadable on my block, but maybe if I can just read the last one it will help. By the way.....isn't that number on the side opposite the distributor?? I believe that's where the oil pump drive goes??

------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah one more thing......what engines/vehicles had 4-bolt mains and roller cams??

jms

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure on which engines had the 4 bolt mains, roller cam provisions, and 1 piece crank, but I would guess trucks or vans ('87 and newer Gen 1 small blocks) and/or possibly 'Vette engines 'late 1986 through 1992(?). Not really sure on the 'Vette.
jms

ColinOpseth

the Vette did, also had pushrod guides and aluminum heads..

yes, my engine was made in January of 1987

and it's all matching numbers baby.. still has the original pistons and cam, too!!!

------------------
Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

OK I think I got the number!!!! I'm pretty sure it says A229 which should translate to January 22, 1989. The block can't be a 99 because it was rusted really bad and the guy said it was pulled because of very high mileage. Now I can hopefully see if there is a different timing set.
The long number on the other side was 14093638, I don't know what that tells me.

Thank you everyone that helped!!

------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

ColinOpseth

you're welcome dude..

------------------
Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

Justin 87 GTA

iTrader: (3)

OKay,....I might have to go into the timing cover, because I think I forgot the oil gally plugs, I have low oil pressure. However, I don't remamber taking off a cam plate, and I don't remamber re-installing one. I also watched the cam install video bu comp cams and they didn't show one either. I have a non-roller cam, and a pre-87 pass side dipstick block.... I think that it is a late 70's to -83 block. DO i need the cam plate? Did i ever even have one.. i don't remember one...Does it just hold a roller cam from walkingin forward? thanks

Matt87GTA

Whoa....

This was for a roller block using a roller cam. If you have a flat tappet cam and block none of this applies.

Justin 87 GTA

iTrader: (3)

whew!

Damon

Putting aside the possiblity of a 3rd style retaining plate (I thought there were only 2 styles) I have a few comments/suggestions:

1. Yank the cam, put the retaining plate on the shoulder of the cam and bolt the gear onto the end of it- just like it would be assembled on the motor, but out of the engine. Then see if you can still turn the plate by hand- which is now sandwiched between the shoulder on the cam and the timing gear. If it is TRULY the retaining plate that is too thick it will be bound up and you won't be able to turn it. If you can still turn it then the binding is elsewhere. Where else could it be? well.......

2. Not sure what timing set you are using but is it possible the back of the timing gear/chain is rubbing/binding against the top oil galley plug? Common problem with double row chain sets.

3. What bolts are you using to hold the retaining plate to the block? There's only so much room for the bolt heads behind the timing gear.