I have a LT4 HOT cam and want to put it in myself. Is it hard. The motor is brand new and out of car on engine stand. Can I just pull the push rods and install new cam per manufauaters specs. what things should I do and not do. How do I set the valves lash and other things if need be?

 

Yes, that is all you have to do is just pull the push rods and install new cam per manufauaters specs. you will need a couple of other things you will need to know first don't put assembly lube on it. Use regular oil. You will need a cam button and you will need to check cam shaft end play.It should be .005 - .008 . with the oil pan off and the timming chain cover on flip the engine upside down get a screw driver and pry the camshaft back and forth and make sure there is a little play.

 

where do I get these tools from to check these measurements. is there any directions in this obard to do this.

 

one more thing, why cant I use pre lube or cam install lube. why do I have to use reg oil?

 

That is what the manufacture says to do. I honestly don't know.

 

Um you have to pull the intake too and remove the lifters or they will fall in the bore when the cam is pulled out. Only cam you can change with doing almost nothing is the LS1's

 

The only reason you put assembley lube on a flat tappet cam is so they will seat onto the lobes without galling them. With a roller cam you don't have to worry about that. The rollers kinda act as a lube. Plus they don't have a tapper on the lobes like a flat tappet does. That's what keeps the lifter rotating in the lifter bore trying to even out friction. That and it's what keeps the cam in the engine.

To check the end play, you need a dial guage with either a magnet or bolt-on base. Set it to zero after you push the cam towards the back of the engine, then push the cam the other way towards the timing cover. Read the guage and see what it says. FYI, dial guages are like everything else. Spend the money for a better one, or you'll pay in the long run.

 

GET A DEGREE WHEEL ,,AND A DIAL INDICATOR READ the instructions FULLY,,,dont cut corners,,,do what "THE" manufacturer says,, 100% or you will suffer,,,hey it will still run and sound like its got a hot cam in it,,,but it wont performe,,,you got to get into it properly,,please if you never done it ,,get some help,,,good luck,and
if some one helps,,WATCH what they do,,next time you do it yourself,,

 

while I agree that degreeing the cam is good, now days it is often not required. If you really don't have the ability to change it (by using bushings) or don't plan to, knowing what the intake centerline is really does not buy you much. The possibility of getting a cam that has been ground incorrectly with the number and the accuracy of grinding equipment now days is very small (especially on cams made by premium companies). It is also very difficult to do in the car.

You need to make sure you have sufficent piston to valve clearance. Especially considering that the HOT-LT4 makes .525 lift with 1.6s and was intended for the LT1. get a new timing chain and gears. Roller is good, true roller is better.

The only thing about setting cam endplay is that in most cases, there is no way to read it. Most cam covers don't have an access hole.


[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited June 01, 2001).]

 

I heard that i mayhave to get a shorter dowel pin for the edn of the hot cam to put into a third gen. I compared my cam to my friends stop lt1 cam and his dowel pinis longer then mine. I bought my camused from a guy that said he tested it in his car and may have put this pin in. is there a way to check to see if I have the right one on the cam.