I'm not sure if this is the right room to put this in, but I am just curious if I can powdercoat my own parts, what's invovled, or do I have to have a shop do it? Thanks.

Powdercoating has to be done by a shop.

Not entirely true, Eastwood offers a kit to powdercoat at home.


http://www.eastwoodco.com/



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"Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."

-Thomas Jefferson

Your both right. Large parts like frame rails, you pretty much have to send to a pro shop. Or anything else that won't fit into an electric oven. I've seen, on some of the car shows on TNN, people use Eastwood's HotCoat system. They also mention not to use your kitchen oven, or a gas oven. You're supposed to use an electric oven that won't be used for cooking food.

I am 16 I have the eastwood hotcoat system. It does a really good job as long as you prep the parts properly. If you are going to do it yourself, then invest in a sandblast cabinet as as big as your oven.

If you have a garage you can powder coat any thing. east wood has a heater that can be placed next to the piece and it will work. I powder coated my super ram dfi and it is great. It is strong and it is dry when you pull it out of the oven just hot . I would powder coat every thing I own if it could handle 450 degree oven. Thats all you need is a used eletric oven. I got mine for $25.00. I would not recomend using it inside
it stinks. Look at my site below and look at my powder coated fuel injection.

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www.geocities.com/camaro1j/myz28.html


406
accel supper ram
6000 rpm Hyd roller cam
afr heads
spohn torque arm and crossmember
t-56 trans, [wier racing bellhousing and hydrolic throwout bearing]
9" ME rearend 3.91 Gears

Ben, why can't you just sandblast with a gun that works off an air compressor? Would it only take longer or something? Also, what all do you have to do to prep parts? do you prep them just like for painting or something?

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1983 Firebird
TH700R4 Auto
Small Block 400
LG4 ECM, Intake, Carb, Distributor, etc.
Soon to be non-computer.
Clarion Head Unit 45X4
2 Pioneer 400W 12" Subs
Third Gen Performance
"A four cylinder is half an engine."

Oh you can use any kind of sandblaster you want, it just would be less mess if you got a cabinet. Prep is probably the most important part, if you don't get all the old paint off or grease off, then you will have really bad imperfections instead of a mirror like finish. It is the neatest thing, looks cool and won't damage as easily as paint will. All my friends try to get me to powder stuff for them, I usually just give in and do it for free because its fun.

Ben's right: You need to get a blast cabinet, or your shop will be covered in gritty dust that gets in everything. This is especially a problem if you are trying to be consistent in your powdercoating. Otherwise you will end up with pits and pockmarks at times.

I've also found that you need to have a consistent temperature in your oven and adhere to cure times. Otherwise some powdercoat colors will shade differently, or end up with orange peel. You also need to clean your powdercoating equipment out immediately after using it or else it will get gummed up from sitting. Either that, or else you'll end up getting the freckle effect as residual powder of a different color mixes with your new powder. Definitely a pain, especially if you are trying to shoot a bright color like yellow!

Then there is the issue of used car parts: You must make sure to get all oil, grease and soot out first. Otherwise, you'll end up with smoke in your powdercoat. This will fog the finish. I end up degreasing the part, then powerwashing the part, and then baking the part for two hours before I sandblast the part. That's why I charge $100 to powdercoat a TPI system.


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Daniel Burk
View my third-gen hobbyist performance page!
View my reader's ride!
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Ported 305 heads w/1.94"intake valves, Comp Cams XE262H, Griffen alum. radiator,
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The only thing that I found if you don't clean the part is that the powder won't stick to the part.I have baked them in diferent temp and different times I never had orange peal or anything else. Don't let these guy's scare you into thinking it is hard to do. Clean up is easy and if you get it on your pants it washes right out.

i powdercoated for 10 years,,,interpon,D,,,life time warranty,,,yes if you want a HACK JOB ,,,how do you do it,, stand back and throw the powder at the job,,or use salt and pepper shakers,,its a waist of time and will stink the house out dont forget polyester powder is poison,,so is chromic acid,,seen the movie ,,A CIVIL ACTION,,its a true story,,,THEY ALL GOT CANCER,,and sued the GOVERNMENT,,inthe U.S.A,its up to you,,GOT A QUESTION for the DIY guys,how can you powdercoat without any electrostatic,charge in the powder,,which makes it hang on in a UNIFORM pattern,,,CHROMIC ACID, CAUSTIC,RINSE ,,DRYING OVEN,,AH,,,give it to the shop to do,,,,you want a nice job or crap, C,MON get profesional,

I,AM NOT trying to be smart,,but i saw a company who sold a kit to build a big bore rifle range for you living room, up to 303,458wetherby,or,even so you could shoot while the family watches TV,,HEY i got the article,,,,DONT waiste your money,,

yeah I just got done powdercoating something (achoo) oh no I think I have caught the plague, all because I wanted to do a crap a s s job of powdercoating. Have you ever seen that movie Dumb&Dumber, yeah its a true story.

You would be amazed at what you can do with a welder and an old electric oven.

Well, you can do that at home, however the same has been said about paint jobs and some of the best I have seen have not used a charge on the part. Also I can anodize at home too. What is your problem with the DIY guys? Jealous? Some people do have enough self confidence to try things themselves. And many on this board are ASE certified. Do you consider them professional or DIYers? I think they would tend to classify themselves in the latter group. You then have to ask yourself what makes a professional? Is it the knowledge? Experience? Equipment? Just b/c some of us decide to do it ourselves does not mean it is not a professional job. I tend to think I have a bit more intelligence and skill than some chimp that swings from vine to vine to get to work. Have you seen some of these giant a$$-crack freaks doing the work? They can't even count to ten using their fingers! Are you telling me that these people can do a better job than me? Hell, I have only been able to find 3 or 4 paint shops around here that can do a better job than I can. Should I submit my automobiles to a shop that produces inferior work just so I can get a 'professional' job? Feel free, however I will not be one to join you in this asinine quest. So should I just assume that since I have the skill, equipment and experience at certain things, but do not currently hold a position at a shop, I cannot produce professional work? I could spin into using woodworking as a prime example of your ignorance, however I don't see that I need to prove my point further.

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"Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."

-Thomas Jefferson

Bravo R.D.,

Just because you work in a shop or in the automotive profession doesn't make you a profession-al. A pro is critical, exacting, patient, careful, and doesn't hesitate to do it again if it makes it right. Whether this work ethic takes place in your garage or professional shop doesn't matter.

Sure, you could take it to a professional. But that professional could screw stuff up just the same as you would.

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89 IROC-Z 350 TPI

-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes

[This message has been edited by branz28 (edited June 02, 2001).]

Or your pro hasn't had a lot of business recently, and decides to take his losses out of your wallet. Well, I had wash the part for 4 hours, and that did't get all the dirt off, so I sent it out to an untrasonic cleaning facility that costs $200/hour, after getting it back from them I coated it once, but I know from experience that multiple coats look much better and last a lot longer. Grand total was about $1500. If you ever have any problems with it come and see me! Whe he may have done it right, he probably did not send it out to an ultrasonic cleaner, and it probably took an hour or so of cleaning, and maybe a little powerwashing/etc. Then a normal coating, should have cost $250 or so. Don't think these things don't happen, I nearly got burned for emmissions by a shop that wasn't doing too well, they pulled the air ling from the smog pump. I passed the NOx by 1 point. I prefer DIY for everything I can...except brakes, I don't trust myself w/ brakes...if the car won't go, that's no big deal, push it off the road, but if it won't stop, you are f*cked!
just my $0.02


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Corry Lazarowitz
clazarow@voicenet.com
clazarowitz@hotmail.com
1987 Pontiac Trans AM (GTA?) 350 or is it a 305?! TPI
SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3" cat back (stock cat
MSD ignition.
MSD Blaster SS coil.
3.73 Rear end gears
Accell 8.8 Wires
Bosh +4 Spark Plugs (Don't know if they really help but hell!)
Holley AFPR
Race Built Automatic trans ('vette servo, shift kit, tightly packed clutches)--just needs titanium gears now!
Newly gutted cat (the car gutted it's own cat!)
Hypertech Chip (Just found out I had it! :eek
More soon when funds are avail...

Not everybody can pay afford to pay someone to do something for them.

They also have a heatlamp setup. No idea how effective it is though.

The only thing I'm not confident with via brakes is bleeding. I can sit in the car and pump the pedal till the cows come home, but I've never been the one opening the bleeders.

Anyone have an opinion on the eastwood hotcoat system? and when you powdercoat rims... do you just do one side then bake then flip it over?