Hey again,

Ive been posting about building up my L98,
But I got 2 projects going on 2 cars.

My question. Will A 305 intake for TPI bolt to a 400 SBC?
same goes for exhaust manifolds?

we got the $$ for the 400, but that leaves us tapped on cash.
hence my questions, Ill have all details about this block
shortly.

Looks like aluminum heads too.


BTW, My toolbox got ripped off last night from my garage with all my TPI and rack bolts for power steering and AC Compressor!!!!

whats the world commen to....
where can I grab that hardware besides a junkyard??

 

an LG4 intake is a carb intake, not a TPI intake unless you have done something very custom with it.

 

Im an idiot.

plz correct me

Its a 305 TPI motor from an 89 T/A

will it bolt up?

 

You can bolt a TPI onto any earlier SBC, including the 400, with the exception of the 2 center-most bolts of the TPI's lower intake. Thy are at a different angle than heads earlier than 1987. This is typically something you can work around. Usually the intake manifold can be modified to work with the slightly different angle of the intake bolts on earlier heads. This sort of modification has been done by board memebers here many times.

Everything else like exhaust manifolds will bolt right on.

The 89's serpentine accessories will also bolt onto the front of the 400 although you may find your particualar 400 block doesn't have the bottom-most bolt holes drilled and tapped to accept the big aluminum brackets (left and right) that hold the various serpentine accessories. Again, this is a relatively minor obstacle and you can either have the block drilled and tapped to take the bolts or you can simply bolt them on without using the bottom-most bolts. Beleive me, there are plenty of bolts holding those aluminum brackets to the front of the engine.

Nothing is ever truly a "bolt on" but this swap comes close.

 

well I wont have to worry anymore,

Found a nice 350 block .. its roller cam

My game plan is to machine the block to
fit that 400 crank a buddy has, and build a 383 with
ported and polished 305 heads for the desired compression,or even keep the original 350 crank with 305 heads. And the heads are LB9 heads, the valvetrain
is being rebuilt very shortly.

the LB9 heads any good?? or find diffrent 305 heads?

 

Don't you wanna machine the 400 crank to fit the 350 block? Something about smaller journals making less friction? I'm no chevy expert, but that's what I hear.....

 

Hey me either .. Im not an expert.

I didnt say this before .. but $$$ is always got us tied ..

we are probally just stay with that 350 with crank,
new mains, rod bearings, rods, cam,flat top pistons and throwing
those 305 heads on it after being ported and polished.

ill have wayyy more details as it developes ..

its just comes down to making the right choice
for the sitiuation your in

 

I think you pretty much summed up everybody here. No matter how much money you have to spend, there just never seems to be enough to go around.

 

Don't waste money on machining a stock crank to fit the 350 block, just get an aftermarket crank. It may be more money, something you are strapped for now, but it will pay for itself later. If you cant afford that, i would just stick with the 3.48 crank.

 

what he said

 

That 350, which is a roller

Comes with matching crank .. saw it myself, and is
good by eye .. but we need to mic it just in case.

No heads, but got some TPI LB9 heads

we tend on using the existing TPI I already have.

I really wanted that complete 400 .. it was great looking and a motor Id keep in my Fbody for years!!

oh well.. I have a good 65 years of my life left .. plenty for better oppurtunitys

 

You can't machine down a stock 400 crank to fit a 350 factory roller block (1987-up). The 400 is an older style 2 piece rear main seal crank. Your 350 roller block is a newer 1 piece rear main seal block. They're incompatible for reasons that go beyond journal diameters. You need an aftermarket crank to build a stroker from a one piece rear main block.

 

You are right, but at the point that I posted, I wasnt aware that he was using a 1 pc block. i didnt notice that until after I posted and he said it was a roller. Either way, its still not worth the money to machine a stock crank.

 

Won't that adapter work? The one that allows the use of a 2 pc rms crank to work in a 1 pc rms block?

Granted, as someone said, it's hardly worth the money to grind down a stock crank, but I would think with the adapter it should work?

Regardless, now you're looking at grinding a stock crank PLUS spending the money for that adapter which IIRC is ~$60. Now you're probably real close to the cost of an aftermarket crank for a 1pc rms block.

 

From what I've been told those are excellent heads once they have been ported and polished. Add 1.94" intake valves and you are set!